Category Archives: Travel

Eat, Roam, Live & Fall in Love with Gangtok Sikkim

July 23, 2019 allgudthings 9 Comments

Some bonds are built by chance and cannot be explained in words. They just happen and leave a direct mark on your soul. Such is the bond we have formed with Gangtok Sikkim in India.

On the first look, Gangtok City located in Northeast India looked like another uber hill town of Himachal or Uttarakhand but after spending a few days there, we realized how unique and advance it is. Locals absolutely love their city, like to keep it CLEAN and also abide by every single rule and regulations set up by the government. The Tangible Goals to end Tuberculosis by 2020, to make state completely organic and plastic-free clearly shows the high vision of state Sikkim. Just imagine, if the whole of India follows this, where we can head to. The Gangtok Town is flanked by the Himalayas on all side and has traditional monasteries hidden in between them, just like the Hemis Monastery in Ladakh.

Eat Roam Live and Fall in Love with Gangtok Sikkim

During our Darjeeling Sikkim Trip, the plan was to spend 2 days in Gangtok, Sikkim whereas we ended up spending up 4 days here. Gangtok acts as a base for trips to East, West, South or North Sikkim. So, even we made it our base and explored all zones from here itself. Also, we got surplus time to imbibe its culture and aura into our souls.

So, here is a brief travel guide from our experience on Gangtok City.

Eat- Places to enjoy food in Gangtok Sikkim, India

Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim, is a city of Nepalese, Tibetans’, and Sikkimese. So, on MG Marg (Mahatma Gandhi Marg) the heart of Gangtok; one can find plenty of cafes and restaurants serving all the specialties to satiate your taste buds. Here are the recommendations of cafes and restaurants from the ones we tried.

Osm Restro & Lounge- Let’s Get Social

The Osm Restro & Lounge located on the first floor has great interiors and gives a feel of fine dining. The seating is comfortable and the corner seats offer the direct view of MG Marg. Their motto to “Let’s Get Social” – SMILE, ENJOY, LAUGH, EAT, DRINK, SHOUT is what this place truly lives too. After a long hectic walk, we relaxed, enjoyed some cocktails and munched on thin-crust pizza here. And the experience was great enough to make us hit back the streets .

Osm Lounge & Bar at MG Marg, Gangtok Sikkim India

Nimtho- Authentic Local Cuisines of Himalayas

Nimtho, located on the first floor in the middle of MG Marg is known for authentic local cuisines of Himalayas. They serve Sikkimese, Nepali and Tibetan food, cooked in the old style with aromatic herb and spices.

Chicken Achar Momos at Nimtho in Gangtok

The place has a cozy warmth and a rustic feel of the traditions with a display of traditional cooking styles throughout the sitting area. We tried Mula Chursi Salad (Raddish spunned with herbs and Sikkim Cheese) and Chicken Achar Momos. The salad was average because we didn’t like the Cheese taste much but Momos were to die for. They were absolutely soupy, juicy and spicy. Although we ordered a plain bread after that to pacify the chilliness.

Golden Dragon Bar & Restaurant

The Golden Dragon Bar and restaurant located near the Tourist Information Center on the first floor is a center of attraction of MG Marg. The loud music and two huge dragons on its exteriors make the place easily recognizable and quite distinct from others. But honestly, we didn’t like it much. The place interiors were gloomy and dingy. We wanted to rush out immediately but after the backache from the North Sikkim trip, we had no energy. So, took a chance and seated ourselves. We ordered here pizza, salad, and HIT, the local beer of Sikkim.

Hit- The Local Beer of Sikkim at Gangtok Sikkim India

Pizza and Salad both were good but the best was chilled HIT, and it really took away all our pain. They also have an open terrace opening towards, MG Marg.

Bakers Café

Good breakfast is what helps us to start our day well. So, we directly headed to the Bakers Café, located on MG Marg.

The first look of Bakers Cafe was WoW! The place has a cool ambiance and it looked like heaven for Bakery lovers. We choose a place next to the window opening up to the Himalayas and ordered a quick breakfast with cappuccino and ginger drink. The food taste and presentation were a treat to eyes. Overall, we loved this cafe and will recommend it to every traveler.

Views from Bakers Cafe in Gangtok Sikkim

Our stomach was full after the scrumptious breakfast but taste buds still had the cravings of sweet so before leaving, we got some cakes, muffins, and munchies packed for ourselves.

Breakfast at Bakers Cafe in Gangtok India.

Hotel Tashi Delek – Rooftop Restaurant

The Hotel Tashi Delek, hidden in one of the lanes of MG Marg is another favorite of all the places. The place has a blend of traditional and modern design and its classy rooftop with an open bar is what makes this place super special. We loved spending our evenings here, admiring the landscapes and densely spread Gangtok. The advise is to occupy a corner seat in the open for the perfect view.

The Rooftop of Hotel Tashi Delek at MG Marg Gangtok

The service at Tashi Delek is good but their menu has very limited food options. In food, we ate fish and egg fried rice with Local Beer “Dansberg” repeatedly and it was absolutely worth the price.

The Tangerine in Chumbi Residency

The Tangerine, restaurant in the Chumbi residency is another hyped place in Gangtok town. We were staying at Chumbi residency, so didn’t pay much attention to its restaurant but definitely, the food we ordered for breakfast and Dinner was yum and value for money.

Tangerine at Chumbi Residency, Gangtok Sikkim

Note: The restaurants and café in Gangtok are not overly expensive. Two people’s meal on average costs around Rs. 1000- Rs.1500/-.

Roam – Attractions in Gangtok Sikkim

Gangtok the capital of Sikkim; proves big things come in small packages. The place is a wonderland and there is some or other place of interest for every tourist or traveler. Gangtok is soaked in the beauty of Himalayas, has unlimited waterfalls, nature trails, monasteries, temples and also boasts one of the highest peaks of the world i.e. Kanchenjunga. Indeed, Gangtok is known as a “Land of Monasteries” and has some of the oldest and largest monasteries. So, here are the places of interest we would like to recommend you.

MG Marg (Mahatma Gandhi Marg)

Mahatma Gandhi Marg, the heart and most happening place of Gangtok is famous among tourists as well as locals. The marg is well paved, maintained, clean, green, and litter-free. It is absolutely full of colors and positive vibes. Also, it houses all the beautiful cafes, lounges, and traditional eateries.

Monasteries

Gangtok has around 100 small monasteries in and around its vicinity -like Enchey Monastery, Tusklakhang Palace Monastery, Lingdum monastery, Rumtek monastery, etc. But if you want to visit only one then do visit Rumtek Monastery.

The Rumtek Monastery, largest in Sikkim and mother of all monasteries, lies on an opposite hill in the Rumtek town, 23 kilometers away from the Gangtok city. At the main gate, there is a check post and from here one needs to walk for a Kilometer to reach Monastery. The path is lined with trees, colorful shops and rows of prayer wheels. The grind of prayer wheels and chirping of birds throughout the walk keep the atmosphere quite lively.

Prayer Wheels on the way to Rumtek Monastery in Sikkim

As you enter the main Monastery gate, 4 storied colorful building stands in front against a calm, green, beautiful mountainous backdrop. The colors and the aura of this place automatically pull you towards it.

Rumtek Monastery - Largest Monastery of Sikkim — Rumtek Monastery – Largest Monastery of Sikkim

Its beautiful architecture, Thangka, and the years-old artifacts clearly state its importance in Sikkim. Also, there are several vantage points around Monastery, from where you get the entire sprawling view of Gangtok city.

Timings: 8:00 am -5:00 pm

Entry Ticket– Rs. 10/-

View of Gangtok Town from Rumtek Monastery

Karma Shri Nalanda Institute / Rumtek Dharma Chakra Center

Keep circumambulating around the Rumtek Monastery and from behind climb the steps to reach Karma Shri Nalanda Institute, an institute for higher Buddhist studies.

Way to Golden Stupa, Karma Shri Nalanda Institute

The main shrine of the institute houses the 13-foot-high Golden Stupa (also known as Lhabab Chodteen) made of Gold and copper, bejeweled with ancient stones and corals. Inside the Stupa are the precious relics and holy remains of His Holiness the Sixteenth Gyalwa Karmapa Rangjung Rigpe Dorje. Photography is strictly prohibited inside the shrine.

Temples

Gangtok has plenty of grandeur Temples and each one is known for its peaceful environment and divine atmosphere. If you have ample time then do visit one or two of them. We checked out Hanuman Tok and Ganesha Tok, both located on the Hilltop offering an amazing view of Himalayas and Kanchenjunga Peak. But during our visit, it was monsoon time and clouds had completely engulfed the ranges, so we didn’t even get a glimpse of them.

On the way to Hanuman Top in Gangtok Sikkim India

Hanuman Tok, located at 7200 feet is dedicated to Lord Hanuman and is one of the main shrines in Gangtok. It lies 11 Kilometers from Gangtok city, on the branch road of Gangtok Nathula Highway. The drive to the temple is breathtaking especially during monsoons when every inch looks green and serene. But be carefully with the Leeches, if you are walking down.

The Hanuman Temple has a mythical story- it is believed that Lord Hanuman rested here for a while, during his return trip from Sri Lanka, while carrying Sanjeevani Bhuti (Herbs) from the Himalayas to cure Lord Laxman. And today this temple is known as wish-fulfilling Temple by locals.

Ganesha Tok, the shrine dedicated to Lord Ganesha lies on the way to Hanuman Tok. The temple can be identified easily from a distance because of its vibrant colors and the colorful flags decorating the pathway. The entrance to the Temple is quite narrow and only one person can enter at a time.

Kanchenjunga View Point /Tashi View Point

The Kanchenjunga viewpoint, also known as Tashi viewpoint lies 8 Kilometers from the Gangtok city. The place is known for the panoramic views it offers of Gangtok city, and of Mount Kanchenjunga and Mount Sinolchu.

Tashi View Point is an irregular structure built on the hilltop and can be reached only via a climbing few steps. In the center of this structure is installed a beautiful dragon art, at the front are the viewpoints built with railing to get the clear panoramic views whereas at back stands the multi-floor hexagonal building. For reaching this building’s top, climb more stairs and pay a nominal fee. And it is all worth after seeing the views from the top. Clouds were floating among the mountains and we could see the specs of Gangtok city in between. The whole scene looked imaginary and completely out of the world.

Here you will also see the tourists getting themselves draped and clicked in traditional Sikkimese dresses.

Dragon art at Tashi View Point in Gangtok

Bakthang waterfall – Gangtok Sikkim

Bakthang waterfall lies 3 kilometers from Gangtok city on the North Sikkim Highway. The fall looks absolutely magnificent because of its spread and the way it falls on the green canopy of creepers.

In front of the Bakthang waterfall is a green bridge where one can climb up for better views and pictures. Also, do enjoy juicy and delicious momos from a local vendor standing in the car parking lot.

Lal Market

The Lal Bazaar very close to MG Marg truly represents the vibrant colors of Sikkim. The local farmers congregate here to sell their local produce and interestingly the majority of vendors are women. On Sunday, the market is super full and it looks like a melody of colors.

Lal Market has 3 floors, where the 1^st and 2^nd floors are dedicated to vegetable and fruit vendors and part of the 2^nd and complete 3^rd floor, are for purchasing clothes of every variety and range. We went here to purchase Dalle – the spiciest Chilli in the world and some local mushrooms.

Dalle- The spiciest chilli in the world — Dalle- The spiciest chili in the world

Dalle, the chili of a cherry size was a rare commodity in the market and was available in red and green. We brought 500 grams each to prepare Dalle Khursani.

Ropeway Ride for bird’s eye view of Gangtok Sikkim

The ropeway cable car ride is one of the topmost tourist attraction of Gangtok. It is a kilometer-long ride, which starts from Deorali near the Institute of Tibetology and goes up to Tashiling. The Cable car operates daily between 9:30 am to 4:30 pm continuously and the ticket price is Rs. 110/- per adult and Rs. 70/- for child below 6 years. Also, video camera charges are additional Rs. 100/-.

Attractions Nearby Gangtok

Nathula Pass

The Nathula Pass located at 14,140 feet lies 56 kilometers from Gangtok town and can be visited as a day trip. The route was once the main silk trade route between India and China but today only limited trade takes place here. For more details on Nathula Pass and permit check here.

Tsomgo/ Changu Lake

The Tsomgo or Changu Lake is a glacial oval-shaped lake at 12,310 feet. It lies 40 Kilometers from Gangtok and can also be visited as a day trip destination. The Changu Lake Lake too is considered as one of the highest glacial lakes of India like Gurudongmar Lake and Chandratal Lake.

Note: Nathula Pass and Tsomgo Lake both need an inner line permit for a visit and can be visited via local cabs only. We skipped visiting both these places for two reasons. First, as we already visited another high altitude Lake i.e. Gurudongmar Lake in North Sikkim and second we never wanted to travel anymore in the cabs.

Live – Accomodation in Gangtok Sikkim India

There are plenty of accommodation options in Gangtok from guest houses to budget hotels to luxurious hotels. The only criteria we had set up for choosing a hotel for ourselves was to find a good place near to the MG Marg. So, we choose to stay at Hotel Chumbi Residency, located on the Tibet Road, at just 5 minutes’ walk away from the main market M.G. Marg.

The Lobby of Hotel Chumbi Residency in Gangtok

The first look of the hotel lobby was impressive. It was well decorated with artifacts reflecting the Sikkim culture and the huge glass on one end gave the complete view of landscapes around Gangtok.

View from Hotel Lobby of Chumbi Residency

We opted for the Jade room at Rs. 2500 per night. The room was super comfortable, cozy, well furnished and had the feel of the bedroom, which we needed for the coming 4-5 days. Moreover, the huge window on one end was enough to have Gangtok feel.

Jade room at Hotel Chumbi Residency in Gangtok

The hotel Chumbi Residency has its own parking space and a wonderful restaurant Tangerine, which serves Continental, Oriental, Indian and Sikkimese cuisine. The other plus of the place is that they let you leave your vehicle while going for a North Sikkim tour.

Fall in Love with Gangtok Sikkim

Gangtok truly represents the beauty and serenity. It is a place which takes you through rolling hills, lush green misty valleys, beautiful monasteries and makes you fall in love. Here are some reasons why we say that

Gangtok is the friendliest walking city with proper pathways
Is absolutely pollution and dirt free
The “N” number of cafeterias, serve the yummiest cuisines without robbing your pockets. So, the city is a gastronomical delight
Has well-aligned policies for the safety and growth of state & Citizens
Weather is excellent throughout the year
And there are multiple options of day trips from the city

How to reach Gangtok

The closest airport to Gangtok was Bagdogra airport near Siliguri in West Bengal. From there one could opt for shared cabs, private taxis, local bus or Zoomcar. We took Zoomcar from Siliguri to Gangtok and it took us around 5 hours to reach there. However, on 4 October 2019, the new airport has opened up at Pakyong in Sikkim which is about 33 km from Gangtok and this will cut downtime to reach Gangtok to 1-hour form 5 hours.

Weather at Gangtok Sikkim, India

Gangtok has mild comfortable temperature weather throughout the year and it never crosses 25 degrees Celsius. Here, Summers are from April end to June and the temperature ranges between 22° to 14 degrees Celsius. Monsoon starts in June and continues till September. During this time Gangtok receives heavy downpour and one can witness multiple landslides too. Autumn lasts in September and October. Winter starts in November and continues until March. The temperature ranges between 7° to 4 degrees Celsius and sometimes even dip to 1 degree Celsius. Spring lasts in April and the weather starts getting warm.

We visited Gangtok in Monsoons and it is a trip to remember forever. The valley was beautifully covered in clouds. The rain continued for days but we didn’t mind getting wet anywhere. Landscapes too looked lush green and misty. So, if you are a rain lover and sucker of natural beauty than visit Gangtok during monsoon i.e. in off season.

India, Sikkim, Tourism, Travel, West Bengal

Travel Guide for 10 Days Darjeeling Sikkim tour

June 15, 2019 allgudthings 16 Comments

We (AllGUDTHINGS), known as the unplanned travelers, are quite random in our travel plans. If one hour we are at home, another hour we will be packing and leaving for some destination. Exactly the same happened during our anniversary. The plan was to go somewhere in Himachal from Delhi, then came Munsiyari in Uttarakhand and by night the whole plan changed and we opted to go for a Darjeeling Sikkim Tour. Most people, don’t trust us on this, but yes we booked our tickets at midnight for Bagdogra Airport, Siliguri in West Bengal and boarded our flight next morning at 11:00 am. So, without any schedule, plan or bookings we left to explore the tea estate land Darjeeling and the smallest state of India, Sikkim.

About Darjeeling Sikkim

Darjeeling, a hill town is located in the lower Himalayas in West Bengal at 6700 feet. It is well known for its Darjeeling tea, the world’s third highest mountain Kanchenjunga, and the UNESCO world heritage site the Darjeeling Himalayan Toy Train. Darjeeling is 68 Kilometers from Bagdogra and 80 Kilometers from Siliguri via Hill Cart road and can be reached in almost 3 hours.

Whereas Sikkim, the least populous and second smallest state of India is divided into North, South, East and West Sikkim. It is known nationally as the most environmentally conscious state, having banned plastic bottles and polystyrene products. The state is a host for the highest peak of India i.e. Kanchenjunga and 35% part of the state is covered by Kanchenjunga National Park. Its capital is Gangtok. Interestingly, Sikkim was earlier not on every tourist’s radar but thanks to social media for giving it glamour.

Itinerary for Darjeeling Sikkim Tour

Day 1– Fly to Bagdogra airport from Delhi. Hire a Zoomcar from Siliguri and then head further to Darjeeling. Read our experience of Zoomcar from Siliguri to Sikkim

Day 2– Explore Darjeeling

Day 3- Drive to Gangtok from Darjeeling

Day 4- Explore Gangtok and surroundings

Day 5-7 North Sikkim Tour. Visit Lachen, Lachung, Gurudongmar Lake, Chopta Valley, Yumthang Valley, Kala Pathar, Katao

Day 8– Drive towards West Sikkim to reach Pelling but unfortunately, we had to come back to Gangtok because of a massive landslide on the way.

Day 9 – Explore East Sikkim (Rumtek Monastery and Surroundings)

Day 10 –Drive from Gangtok till Siliguri by Zoomcar, then to Bagdogra airport by cab, and further flight back home to Delhi

Total Expense Breakup

Flights – Because of offseason (July – August), to & fro ticket (Delhi – Bagdogra) cost us Rs. 12,000 for two people
Zoomcar for the whole trip – Rs, 20,000 for first 965 Kilometers, and 5,000 Rs. as refundable security. Above this, the additional Kilometers will be charged at Rs. 15 per kilometer
North Sikkim Trip – Rs. 16,000 including cab, accommodation and permit + Rs. 4000/- for covering additional places like Kala Pathar, Zero Point, Chopta Valley, and Katao
Cab from Bagdogra airport to Siliguri – Rs.1400 to and fro
Hotel in Darjeeling – Due to the offseason we got Rs. 7000/- Club Room in Rs. 3500/- (Heritage Hotel); So, Rs. 7000/- for 2 nights including two meals
Hotels in Gangtok – Rs. 2500/- per night again due to offseason (Rs. 10,000/- for 4 nights)
Miscellaneous meals – Breakfast between Rs. 500- Rs.700 whereas Dinner costs around Rs. 1000- Rs. 1500. Total cost approx. – Rs. 15000/-
Shopping – Rs. 5000/-

Transport in Darjeeling Sikkim

Darjeeling and Sikkim both have well-connected roads and can be reached via bus, shared or private cabs. The self-drive option is also open in Darjeeling and certain districts of Sikkim, just that one needs proper permits for it. So, being road trip lovers we opted for a self-drive option and did the complete journey with Zoomcar from Siliguri.

Zoomcar Parking Lot Siliguri. - Darjeeling Sikkim Tour — Zoomcar Parking Lot Siliguri. – Darjeeling Sikkim Tour

Private and shared cabs run at very short intervals from Bagdogra airport. Shared jeep charges almost Rs. 150/- per person but it moves when it is full and there are 10 people in the jeep between 7 am to 3 pm. There is another Luxury class, share ride, which carries only 5 passengers by the name Wizzride. It starts from Siliguri and takes one to Darjeeling at a fare of Rs. 475/- and Gangtok at a fare of Rs.712 per seat. Whereas the private cab charges are Rs. 1850.00 for small car and Rs. 2200.00 for a large car.

Bus, the cheapest mode of transport starts at 7:00 am from Siliguri and go up to Darjeeling/ Gangtok. Night service is not available.

Darjeeling Toy Train Track runs parallel to road from Siliguri to Darjeeling

Another exciting option is to travel by Darjeeling Toy Train. The diesel engine hauled toy train leaves from NJP station i.e. New Jalpaiguri railway station; in the morning around 9 am and it takes about 7 hours to reach Darjeeling. The train can also be boarded from Siliguri Town and Siliguri Junction stations that are 5kms and 8kms away from NJP respectively. One side fare for First Class is Rs. 1,285/-. For the Darjeeling Toy Train schedule, check here.

Permits/ Interstate Rod Taxes for Self Drive Zoomcar

From Siliguri to Darjeeling, we didn’t pay any tax but while entering state Sikkim from West Bengal, at Rangpo we paid an interstate tax of around 700 Rs for 9 days. This amount is nonrefundable by Zoomcar and you will get an alert in the Zoomcar app as soon as you enter the sate.

Note: Zoomcar cannot be taken to North and East Sikkim because the permits for the regions are issued to the Travel agents only. For Day 5-7 we parked our vehicle at the hotel itself.

Day Wise Itinerary Breakup

Day 1 – Flight to Bagdogra Airport from Delhi, Took Zoomcar from Siliguri and moved to Darjeeling

Board a flight from New Delhi airport and you will land at Bagdogra airport in 2 – 2:15 hrs. Bagdogra airport is a small airport. Within minutes, you will collect your baggage and make an exit. At the exit gate itself, you will be surrounded by plenty of cab drivers quoting random prices. If you have not booked your cab earlier, we advise you to take an exit, walk for 500 meters and book a cab at the prepaid counter.

We hired the cab for Siliguri, from prepaid taxi stand at Rs.700/-. In 45 minutes he dropped us to the Zoomcar parking lot. As, we reached the Parking lot, our Red Scorpio and the customer care executive was waiting for us. He checked our license on arrival and handed us the documents bag, which had car RC, insurance and other important documents in it. Further he asked us to do quick inspection of the car and make a note of the scratches, dents or any other issues. To be on the safer side, we made a quick short video and took pictures of the car.

Further, the customer representative logged into the app showed us the checklist explaining all the modules, took our signatures, handed us the keys and we were all set to go. For more details check our post experience with Zoomcar from Siliguri to Sikkim.

Within 15 minutes, we were on the road to Darjeeling. The road to Darjeeling is a beautiful road with the narrow gauge track on one side and valley on others. From one point, there are continuous ascent and tea estates on another side. We took the Hill cart road also known as the main road and reached Darjeeling in 4 hours. Clouds were pouring, there was hardly any visibility and all we could smell was freshness in the valley.

Route: Siliguri- Kurseong- Sonada- Ghoom- Darjeeling

Accommodation at Darjeeling

There are plenty of accommodation options in Darjeeling from luxurious hotels to budget ones, guest houses and heritage homes. We choose to stay at the Central heritage resort and Spa Hotel, constructed in 1905. The hotel has heritage and a newly constructed block.

Central Heritage Resort & Spa in Darjeeling

We chose to stay at the Heritage Club room, which completely reflected the design of the Colonial era. The room had extensive woodwork, antique furnishing, fireplace, paintings, and all required necessities. In a hotel, there are two multi-cuisine restaurants and one of them has a bar too. Also, there is also a separate bar lounge with a designated smoking area. Food is good and we advise you to must try fish from their starters menu.

Note: The Central Heritage resort is located centrally right in the market area, and the mall (chowrasta) is only a 4-5-minute walk from here. Rest markets, taxi stand, railway station, and great restaurants are also within easy walking distance from here.

Day 2 – Explore Darjeeling

Darjeeling, the queen of the hill stations is also the home to a Toy train and is a land of tea estates. The bustling town, towered over by the majestic Khangchendzonga (8598 m), also has many amazing attractions around it.

Darjeeling Toy Train Station. — Darjeeling Toy Train Station

But we just had one day for Darjeeling in 10 days’ Darjeeling Sikkim Tour. So, it was impossible for us to check every attraction and here is what all we checked and will recommend to you.

Get up early and go to Tiger Hill for catching the first sunlight on snowcapped peaks of Kanchenjunga. If the weather is clear you will also get a glimpse of Mount Everest. Unfortunately, during our trip there was heavy rain so we skipped going to Tiger Hill.
Go for a stroll to the Darjeeling railway station. See how till the day, the steam engines of Toy Tain are set and the train track is cleaned
Toy Train starts at 7:40 am from Darjeeling Railway station. Opt to go till the nearest station Ghum/ Ghoom, which is the highest altitude station on the Darjeeling Himalayan Rail track. It’s a 2-hour round trip covering a total distance of 14kms
Head to Batasia Loop, which is one of the greatest engineering marvels till day. The Loop was commissioned in 1919 for the toy train to handle a steep gradient of 140 feet. Just after Ghoom, there is a sharp fall as the toy train moves towards Darjeeling so this was the only way to reduce the gradient of the slope.
Go to Chowrasta/ or the mall for the relaxing stroll and shopping. In August, practice for 15th August was going on mall road, so we enjoyed the perfect show in a mist
Enjoy delicious Thupka and momos which you can find on every corner.
Visit Darjeeling Tea Estates and learn about the various types of tea. We brought some flavors for ourselves from Golden Tips. Also read the guide on Darjeeling tea, before buying for yourself
Visit Peace Pagoda sitting atop the Charlemont Hill. It was established by the Japanese Buddhist monk Nichidatsu Fujii as a way of promoting World Peace and harmony
If you have more time, then do visit Kalimpong, Sandakhpu, Himalayan Mountaineering Institue, Padmaja, and Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park

Chowrasta in Darjeeling- Darjeeling Sikkim Tour

Day 3 – Road trip from Darjeeling to Gangtok, Sikkim

Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim lies 100 Kilometers from Darjeeling and can be reached in 5-6 hours. Tea estates in the valley accompany you on the way, further taken over by River Teesta/ Tista. Roads in West Bengal are well built and starts getting narrower after some Kilometres. You will cross several small colourful villages on the way and at times expect taking detours too.

Route: Darjeeling- Tista- Meli- Rangpo- Singtam- Ranpool- Gangtok

Eco Tourism project on the way from Darjeeling to Gangtok

At Rangpo cross a bridge and there is a check post. Here, you need to pay, interstate tax for driving from West Bengal. We paid Rs. 700 for almost 8 days. For documentation take your car’s Registration Card and Driving License and the whole process takes around 15 minutes.

We reached Gangtok by 4:00 pm and the first thing was to search for a Hotel near MG Marg, as we had no prior bookings. July – August is considered the off-season period, so we were sure we will get it on a bit of a search.

Accommodation at Gangtok

Just like Darjeeling, there are plenty of accommodation options in Gangtok. We planned to stay at Chumbi Residency, located on the Tibet Road, and just 5 minutes’ walk away from the main market M.G. Marg.

Lobby of Hotel Chumbi Residency in Gangtok

The hotel lobby of Chumbi residency was well decorated with artifacts reflecting the Sikkim culture and the huge glass on one end gave the complete view of landscapes with floating clouds in between. We opted for the Jade room at Rs. 2500 per night. The room was super comfortable, cozy and well furnished. It had the perfect feel of the bedroom, as it was going to be our abode for the coming 4-5 days. The staff welcomed us with a pleasant smile and were super helpful. They guided us with all the petty details, we needed on our unplanned trip.

Note: The Chumbi Residency has its own parking space and lets you leave your vehicle while going for a North Sikkim tour. Also, they have one of the best restaurants of Gangtok by name, Tangerine, which serves Continental, Oriental, Indian and Sikkimese cuisine.

In the evening we went for a quick stroll at MG Garg and were impressed by the vibes of the place and food options we can enjoy here.

Day 4 – Explored Gangtok and Surroundings

Gangtok, the neat and clean vibrant town is full of life and is equally peaceful too. There are plenty of things to enjoy in Gangtok and its surroundings. So, here is what we will suggest to you.

Take a stroll at MG Marg. It has plenty of amazing cafes, bookstores, and restaurants to chill out
Visit the nearest Bakthang waterfall. Also enjoy tea, Momos, and Maggi from the tea vendors there
Admire the views of Kanchenjunga from Kanchenjunga viewpoint
Pay a visit at colorful Hanuman Tok and Ganesha Tok
Visit Lal market to buy Dalle (the spiciest chili in the world) and some more souvenirs
If you’re Skipping North Sikkim, then we would recommend you to visit the glittering Tsomgo/Changu Lake, Nathula Pass, and Tashi View Point. However, if you are visiting North Sikkim, then you can skip these sites and the Tashi viewpoint will come on your way
In the evening head to MG Garg and enjoy some local Momos and Thupkas or relish good food and local drinks at a café. We have explored some amazing cafes during our visit and will be writing about them soon

Day 5 – Drive to North Sikkim (Lachen)

The real Darjeeling Sikkim tour started here, as we will be visiting the remotest area i.e. North Sikkim. For the next 3 days, our Zoomcar was in the parking lot and we will be tripping in the local cab as one cannot drive his/her own vehicle or take Zoomcar to the restricted areas of Sikkim. Moreover, Indians need inner line permit whereas foreigners need restricted area permit for visiting these areas. For us, the last minute bookings and permits were arranged by our Hotel staff with a trustworthy driver.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bm3TOLwluuu/

Documents for Permit

Carry an identity proof (Aadhar Card, Voter ID, Driving License, Passport) of each individual along with 2-3 photographs.

Our day started with a call from a driver (Sharon Chettri) at 9:00 am. He instructed us to carry water, snacks, medicines, and other necessary stuff on the way as it is going to be a long and tedious day. We packed and left at the earliest. As soon we took an exit from Gangtok, vistas started changing. Surroundings became completely green and the roads turned narrow and winding. The journey looked like a marvel with endless waterfalls and panoramic views of Himalayas. We advise you to make multiple stops in between to sip tea with views, have food and obviously for photography.

Tea with views on the way to Lachen- Darjeeling Sikkim Tour

Route to Lachen – Gangtok – Mangan- Chungthang- Lachen

Distance – 110 Kilometers

Time to reach – approx. 6 to7 hrs. but in seasons this can go up to 8-10 hrs.

Note: From Mangan, the restricted area zone begins. Here, at the check post, your permit will be checked and you will be advised to purchase a plastic bottle as ahead Mangan plastic bottles are not allowed. Isn’t that wonderful? Also buy some snacks and munchies, if you are not carrying from Gangtok.

Views on the way to Lachen in North Sikkim

Accommodation and Meals in Lachen

We reached Lachen by 5:00 – 5:30 pm. It was raining continuously and the temperature had already dipped by several degrees. The driver took us immediately into Hotel Sinolchu (included in our package) and on arrival, the owner served us hot tea. We relaxed for some time and then left for a walk in the beautiful village.

The Colorful Dining area of Hotel Sinolchu at Lachen

At Lachen, there are limited accommodation options. Although, lots of new good hotels are coming up but in offseason many are closed; so just expect the basic accommodation and meals. Basic accommodation means guest house with very limited facilities. Our hotel rooms were small, had two single beds, an attached washroom, and unpredictable lighting. Meals served too were quite basic and it included Rice, Dal, Veg, and Chapatti only. One or two shops in the evening were open and were serving hot Maggi, Thupka, and Momos.

Early Morning views of Lachen- Darjeeling Sikkim Tour

Day 6 – Drive to Gurudongamr Lake, Chopta Valley, Kala Pathar and night at Lachung

Lachen is the mid-point to the remotest and highest Gurudongmar Lake. From here the distance to Lake is just 67 Kilometers but it takes almost 5 hours to reach. So, start your day quite early at 4:30 am to reach Gurudongmar Lake by 9:00 – 9:30 am.

Route: Lachen – Thangu Valley – Gurudongmar Lake

The graveled road ahead Lachen turn into pebbly and muddy road with wide pot holes. Road becomes a single lane road and your driver will be driving at a speed of 10- 15 Kms/ hr. Just think that you will be off-roading for most of the time. Your driver will make a quick stop for a breakfast before reaching Thangu Check post. It will be too early for breakfast but we advise you to have something to avoid AMS (Altitude Mountain Sickness). After this, the road turns bumpier and green landscapes are taken over by barren mountains.

Road to Gurudongmar Lake in North Sikkim – Darjeeling Sikkim Tour

Further, the last checkpoint and settlement come at Giagong i.e. at 15,000th feet. you can use public convenience and enjoy soup or tea at the café. Just, 9 kilometers before the destination, roads turned smoother and well-constructed and you start seeing the snowcapped peaks. Landscapes around will keep you hypnotized throughout and in the next few minutes, you will be standing by the glistening blue Gurudongmar Lake. For the detailed experience please read the complete post on Gurudongmar Lake.

It was already 11:30 am. Our driver was shouting for us to come back as the wind and water speed has already increased but we were not ready. Anyways we had too and started our journey back.

On the way, we took a detour to Chopta Valley and Kala Pathar. The Chopta Valley, at 13,200 feet is just 2-3 detour from Thangu. It is a valley of green carpet and flowers and it left us completely stunned by its riots of colors. The valley is still unexplored but it looked like a heaven for the nature lovers.

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From the valley keep ascending further on the pebbly road, crossing multiple waterfalls till 14,850 feet to see the snow-covered black cliffs known as Kala Patthar. It is a very close point at Indo- Tibet border and there is no human settlement here.

Kala Pathara is a new, less known tourist destination and is not included in the North Sikkim package. You need to pay your driver some extra money for this trip. Our driver asked us Rs. 2500/- per destination but we negotiated and paid him lump sum Rs. 4000/- extra. We left the place by 2:30 am and reached back Lachen by 4:00 pm.

Road to Kala Pathar in North Sikkim- Darjeeling Sikkim Tour

Quick lunch at Lachen and we further left for Lachung. It was already pouring and we were afraid of Landslides on the way. So, we just planned to cover the distance at the earliest without taking much stops. From Lachen, Lachung is just 47 Kilometers but it takes around 3 hours to reach.

Route: Lachen- Chungthang – Lachung

On the way, comes the Bhewma waterfall also known as Amitabh Bachchan Waterfall. Here water falls from a height of 275 meters, and it is known so because of the shooting of the movie Aankhen starring Amitabh Bachchan at this particular spot.

Accommodation and Meals in Lachung

We reached Lachung by 8:30 pm and checked in to our Hotel the Cliff View Residency, located a bit away from the main town. Quick hot water bath, followed by dinner and we were ready to sleep. The rain was still pouring and we were still literally about the journey ahead to Yumthang valley.

View from our room in Lachung- Darjeeling Sikkim Tour — View from our room in Lachung

Our Hotel included in the package was very basic but had an excellent view. The room was clean, had a double bed and quilts with lots of mosquitoes. Dinner too was basic just like in Lachen and included the similar Dal, mixed Veg, Chapati, and Rice. So, we seriously advise you to inquire about the accommodation and meals with a tour operator before booking the North Sikkim Trip.

Day 7 – Drive to Yumthang Valley, Zero Point and Transfer back to Gangtok

Our day began at 6:00 am and by 7:00 am, we left for Yumthang valley, also known as the valley of flowers. In light, Lachung looked much bigger than Lachen and perfectly green with beautiful landscapes all around.

On the way to Yumthang Valley in North Sikkim- Darjeeling Sikkim Tour

Route: Lachung – Yumthang- Zero Point

As we crossed Lachung, roads became narrower with a continuous ascent. Clouds were floating in between the Himalayas and last night rain had made everything looked cleaner and greener. At times there were no roads and we were just driving on the stones and water streams but we were completely hypnotized by the views around.

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Finally, we entered the Shingba Rhododendron Sanctuary in the Yumthang valley, from a beautiful gate. The road was lined on both sides by the flowering plants and we could see the tributary of River Teesta, (Lachung Chu), flowing in between the valley. And then came a halt! We rushed out of the car to see what has happened. It was a massive landslide because of the last night rain and there Our fear came true. We waited for half an hour but there was no scope of getting it Cleared.

River Lachung Chu Tributary of River Teesta in Yumthang Valley- Darjeeling Sikkim Tour — iver Lachung Chu Tributary of River Teesta in Yumthang Valley

From there we took a U-turn and seeing our disappointment our driver took us to another place Katao, situated at 13,500 feet along the Indo- China Border. Katao too offers the panoramic view of Himalayan ranges and is known as the rival of Yumthang Valley in beauty. Just like Sonamarg in Jammu & Kashmir, it is also known as Switzerland of India.

Way to Katao in North Sikkim - Darjeeling Sikkim Tour — Way to Katao in North Sikkim

We spent some good time there and started our journey back to Gangtok. Fully exhausted, we reached Gangtok back by 6:00 pm.

Day 8 – Drive to West Sikkim and Back to Gangtok

We started our day in a relaxed manner, with a good breakfast and left in Zoomcar to reach Pelling town, located in West Sikkim. The plan was to chill for the remaining days in West Sikkim and then back to Gangtok but destiny had planned some other surprise for us.

Butterfly Waterfall on the way to West Sikkim- Darjeeling Sikkim Tour — Butterfly Waterfall on the way to West Sikkim.

We started our journey seeing Google Maps and instead of going back to Singtam, we planned to take the other scenic route; crossing east and South Sikkim to reach West Sikkim i.e – Gangtok – Bakthang Waterfall- Samdong- Rangang- Ravangla . The route was extremely scenic with multiple detours and waterfalls. But all that starts well doesn’t end well too. After driving for 6 hours, we couldn’t cover 80 Kilometers. And just 10 Kilometers before Ravangla, there happened a massive Landslide. So, left with no other option we had to take a detour to reach Singtam and back to the base, Gangtok.

Day 9 – Explore East Sikkim and Surroundings

Gangtok lies in East Sikkim and left with just a day in hand we thought to explore the surrounding areas only. The area on our mind was Zuluk but it too needed a permit and could be explored with the local operators only. So, we gave up on it and made a visit to the Rumtek Monastery and Karma Shri Nalanda Institute.

Rumtek-Monastery in East Sikkim- Darjeeling Sikkim Tour — Rumtek-Monastery in East Sikkim

Rumtek Monastery, one of the largest monasteries in Sikkim is located on the hilltop and faces the Gangtok city. Many sacred objects are housed within the complex, and one of the most magnificent is the Golden Stupa, which contains the precious relics of His Holiness the Sixteenth Karmapa. Just opposite to it is the Karma Shri Nalanda Institute, for higher Buddhist studies.

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From there we drove, further in East Sikkim, to soak our eyes with some more gorgeous views and ended our day by doing restaurant and café hopping.

Day 10 – Drive to Siliguri to hand over Zoomcar, Transfer to Bagdogra Airport and Back to Delhi

Even after spending enough time in Sikkim, we were not ready to leave and we are totally in LOVE with the state.

Anyways, we left around 9:00am. Distance from Gangtok to Siliguri is just 115 Kilometers and expected time to reach was 4:30 hrs. But we took a margin of 2 hours, to handover over Zoomcar because of the bad roads, landslides and unexpected detours in Sikkim. But unexpectedly reached within the time span, handed Zoomcar at Siliguri office in 15-20 without any damage and took a flight back to Delhi.

Flight Back to Delhi from Bagdogra Airport - Darjeeling Sikkim Tour — Flight Back to Delhi from Bagdogra Airport

Some Tips for Darjeeling Sikkim Tour

The closest airport is Bagdogra in West Bengal and it takes around 5 hours to reach from there to Gangtok. However, the new airport in Sikkim has opened this October 4, and this will certainly make it easier for travelers who plan to visit the city. It’s located, about 33 km from Gangtok so travel to Gangtok will come down from 5 hours to just one.
If you are traveling in Monsoons i.e. July- August expect a lot of change in plans due to landslides, excessive rain and detours whereas in season time there are long queues
Roads are really bad in Sikkim, so the traveling time can go hours beyond the expected reach time
Driving a Zoomcar in the state was fun and locals didn’t create any problem for us, except a big stare. All we hear about the locals creating a problem for self-drive vehicles is just a rumor
One cannot drive his own vehicle or take a Zoomcar to the restricted areas like North Sikkim, and East Sikkim
Sikkim is not just a Buddhist state. Most of the people are Hindus and they follow Buddhism
Smoking is banned in public and plastic too. You might just get penalized for throwing the wrappers anywhere on the road

So, during our Darjeeling Sikkim tour, we tasted Darjeeling and all the districts of Sikkim but missed reaching many destinations too due to excess of rains and landslides. We saw a lush green beautiful Sikkim, with almost Zero tourists. Overall, it is a trip to remember forever.

If you still have any questions for us, leave in the comments. We will be happy to answer them.

India, Tourism, Travel, Uttarakhand

Travel Guide to Kedarnath Temple

May 24, 2019 allgudthings 24 Comments

We always believe some things and trips are bound to happen and you can’t resist them. Yes, that was exactly the scene when we did a trip to Badrinath Dham in 2017 and now Kedarnath Temple road trip in 2019. Honestly, the thought of covering both these religious destinations never occurred to us, but it seems GOD himself, pull us to see his abode and the beauty around it.

Our Itinerary for a road trip to Kedarnath Temple from Delhi

We did the complete trip to Kedarnath from Delhi in 5 days. Our starting and ending point was Noida.

Day 1 – Started our journey at 7:00 am from Noida and took the first halt at Srinagar around 7:00 pm.

Day 2- Started at 9:00 am from Srinagar and reached Gaurikund around 7:00 pm.

Day 3: Trek (via Horses) started at 5:30 am and reached up at Gooda Phul by 10:00 am and further reached the temple by walking around 11:30 am

Day 4: Left from Kedarnath around 9:00 am, and reached Kedarnath base camp by 10:00 am. Took horses and reached Gaurikund around 2:30 pm. Further walked and took a shared cab till Sonprayag and reached there around 3:30 pm. We took our car and left ahead. Reached Rudarprayag at 8:00 pm.

Day 5: Drove from Rudraprayag to Noida via Lansdowne. We started our day at 9:00 am and ended at 11:00 pm.

How to reach Kedarnath

The journey to Kedarnath can be done via road, or by air. For Road, you can check the route we followed and for the helicopter services from Haridwar/ Rishikesh or Phata (15 km ahead of Guptakashi), check & register here. The helicopter service providers at Phata make you reach Kedarnath Temple within 15-20 minutes. So, the to & fro can be done in 2-3 hrs.

Roadtrip to Kedarnath Temple — Ahead Rishikesh – On way to Kedarnath

The nearest airport is at Dehradun whereas the nearest railway is at Haridwar or Rishikesh. Further, the journey to Sonprayag from Dehradun is 252 km, from Haridwar is 237 km and from Rishikesh is 212 Km.

Route from Delhi till Sonprayag:

Route 1 (Distance from Delhi to Kedarnath Temple Sonprayag, 491 Kms) Delhi – Noida – Modinagar – Khatauli – Muzaffarnagar- Rorkee- Haridwar – Rishikesh – Devprayag – Srinagar – Rudarprayag – Agastmuni – Guptkashi – Phata – Sonprayag

Route 2 (516 kms) Delhi – Noida – Modinagar – Khatauli –Najibabad –Lansdowne- Pauri – Srinagar – Rudarprayag – Agastmuni – Guptkashi – Phata – Sonprayag

We went via Route 1 and came back via Route 2 i.e. Lansdowne. No doubt the route 2 is more picturesque but it is equally tiring too, especially via returning back.

Road Conditions till Sonprayag

Roads are good and there are many rough patches too. Expect few landslides on the way and at times you will be taking detours and driving just at the River bed. Char Dham Highway project, NH-58 i.e. four-lane roads for 900 kilometers, connecting 4 Dhams i.e. Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri, and Yamunotri is on the go, so there are many roadblocks and traffic will be slow on the way.

Detours due to Landslides - on the way to Kedarnath — Detours due to Landslides – on the way to Kedarnath

Sonprayag to Gaurikund

Further, from Sonprayag; Gaurikund is around 6 Kilometers and can be reached via trek or shared cabs only. Trekking will add another distance of 5 Km to the trek, making the total trek of 22 to Kedarnath Temple. So, a better and most economical option is to go via a shared cab from Sonprayag to Gaurikund. Park your vehicle in the Sonprayag parking zone and move towards the registration counter. After registration, walk for around 500 meters and you will see cabs there. The driver charges Rs.20 per head in a shared cab and jump in.

Gaurikund serves as a base camp to Kedarnath Temple and once you debark here the real trek to Kedarnath Temple begins.

First look of Gaurikund and River Mandakini

Gaurikund to Kedarnath Temple

Before Gaurikund to Kedarnath Trek distance was 14 kilometers via Rambara but North India floods in 2013 completely destroyed the older route between Rambara and Kedarnath. So, now the new route laid down from Gaurikund till Kedarnath Base camp distance is of 16-17 Kilometers. Gaurikund Base camp is the point where horses go and are also known as Ghoda Phul.

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From Kedarnath Base camp, there is further a walk of 2-3 kilometers till Kedarnath Temple. Thee same can be done via, walking, Palki (Palanquin), or Pithu’s only.

Complete new Kedarnath Trek Route Map

Gaurikund – Rambara Bridge (7 Kms) – In between comes Jungal Chatti (4 kms from Gaurikund) and Bheembali (6 kms from Gaurikund)

Rambara – Linchauli (4 Kms) i.e. 11 kms from Gaurikund

Linchauli – Kedarnath Base Camp (3-4 Kms)

Kedarnath Base Camp – Kedarnath Temple (2-3 Kms)

Kedarnath Trek Route Picture- Road to Taste

Facilities on the way to Kedarnath Trek

The Kedarnath trekking route is paved and barricaded except at the few patches. In the midst of the trek, there are shelters, proper medical facilities, tented accommodations, drinking water, and small shops/ restaurants.

Horses/ Ponies/ Palki/ Kandi / Helicopter

Horses, Palki, Kandi and Kedarnath Pithu services are available at the base camp as an alternative to trekking. Remember you can get horses/ ponies easily at the base camps but the chances of getting them on the way are bleak; whereas Kandi and Palki service is available throughout. Rates for Horses/ Ponies is Rs.2500/- from Gaurikund base camp to Kedarnath base camp and Rs. 1500/- for vice versa. Whereas rates for Palki and Kandi varies with weight and you can refer the below chart for the same.

The Helicopter services to Kedarnath are available from Guptkashi (15 km before Phata), Phata, and village Sersi. A helicopter drops the pilgrims just behind the temple and for the revised rates, refer here.

Horses, Ponies, Palkis for Kedarnath Trek

Medical Services

Special arrangements for medical services have been made by the Health Department at all the main stops i.e. at Jungle Chatti, Bheembali, Linchauli, and Kedarnath. Doctors are available for 24 hours and there is an arrangement of medicines, oxygen cylinders, telemedicine, and even airlifting. There is also a 10 bedded hospital with ECG and other modern facilities at Kedarnath.

Accommodation

Accommodation on the way is available at Jungle Chatti, Bheembali, and Linchauli. At Bheembali there is GMVN Bheema Complex and at Linchauli, there are Shivlok Cottages. At Kedarnath, there are several accommodation options. We stayed at Agra Bhawan, which is just next to Kedarnath Temple.

Shops & Restaurants

There are several shacks and restaurants on the way of supplying cold drinks, buttermilk, biscuits, Maggi, and food. The pricing is higher than the regular pricing but it’s worth as it is tough to get and maintain regular supplies here.

Best time to visit Kedarnath Temple

Kedarnath is cold during most of the year and weather too changes here drastically. So, the best time to visit Kedarnath Dham is May- June, and September – October. Avoid going during monsoons i.e. July – August as there are heavy rainfall and high chances of landslides.

Kedarnath Temple opens up on the auspicious day of Akshay Tritiya (which falls in April – May) and closes on Bhai Dooj i.e. after Diwali (October – November). In 2019, the temple opened up on 9^th May and probably will close on 29^th October.

Kedarnath Temple Timings

The Kedarnath temple timings are fixed from 4:00 am -9:00 pm.

Timings for Kedarnath Trek

Because of the unpredictable weather conditions, there are fixed timings for Kedarnath trekking too. One cannot go up from Gaurikund base camp after 1:00 pm and cannot trek back from Kedarnath base camp after 5:00 pm.

Trek Level: Steep and Tough

Registration for Kedarnath Trek

As soon as you park your vehicle in Sonprayag and move from the parking there is a Biometric Registration counter. There is a separate queue for men and women. The police personnel sitting behind the window will ask you for I- card verifies your details, take a picture and issue a Char Dham, Yatra Card. The whole process takes around 15-20 minutes.

Biometric Registration and Prepaid Pony or Horse Counter at Sonprayag

Just adjacent to this counter is a prepaid booking counter for horses/ ponies/ palkis and Dolis. One can book the same from here or from Gaurikund counter. We booked for ourselves from Gaurikund at the fixed government rates only.

Char Dham Yatra Card — Bio metric Registration Card

About Kedarnath Temple

Kedarnath; is formed from two Sanskrit words where “Kedara” means field and “Natha” means Lord. So, it is known as a place where the “Crop of Liberation” grows.

The Kedarnath Temple is located at 11,755 feet in the Garhwal Himalayan range of Uttarakhand, on the banks of Mandakini River (a tributary of Ganga), near the Chorababari glacier. It is a Hindu Temple (Shrine) dedicated to Lord Shiva and is also one of the Jyotirlinga. The temple is 85 feet high, 187 feet in length and 80 feet wide. Its walls are 12 feet thick and are built from extremely strong stones.

Tokens for Kedarnath Temple

For a visit to Kedarnath Temple, one needs to collect the Tokens. They are available at the Kedarnath entry gate, near the market. Remember, the token is for one person only and the collected token is valid for the same day Darshan only. After getting your token, wait for your number to be displayed on the display board.

Note: For the next day you need to collect new tokens and the personnel’s are available form 5:00 am to 6:00 pm.

Kedarnath Temple Story

There are several stories of Kedarnath Temple. Some claim it to be built by Guru Adi Shankaracharya in the 8^th century whereas others claim it to be built by Raja Bhoj of Malwa in the 2^nd century.

Acc. to Hindu mythology, the temple was initially built by Pandavas. Pandav Brothers after killing their kin during the Kurukshetra war, wanted to seek forgiveness from Lord Shiva but Shiv was not interested in meeting and forgiving them. So, Lord Shiva left Kashi his abode and came to dwell in this Himalayan range at Guptkashi. However, Pandavas got to know about his presence and they reached here too. To further hide, Lord Shiva turned himself into a bull and got mixed with the grazing cattle. But the Pandavas especially Bhima being too smart tracked Lord Shiva, and on realizing this Lord Shiva tried to disappear by sinking himself head-first into the ground. One of the brothers grabbed his tail and hind limb, forcing him to appear and forgive them. So, the hump is found at Kedarnath whereas the rest body parts are found at four other locations and together these places are known as Panch Kedars.

There is another Hindu story, in which a Hindu Deity Nar Narayana performed a severe act of austerity and on getting pleased, Lord Shiva appeared in front of them to grant their wish. The Deity requested Lord Shiva to stay here in the original form i.e. Jyotilingam for the welfare of humanity. Shiva granted their wish and Kedarnath became his abode.

Now, the most interesting story is that Geologist believes that the Kedarnath temple remained hidden under the snow for 400 years during the Little Ice Age-era i.e. from 1300to 1900 AD. The yellow lines on the temple structure completely depict the glacial activity it had undergone.

Inside Kedarnath Temple

Kedarnath Temple is an ages-old stone temple. Its architecture truly looks quite stout and that has been proved, as it still stands magnificently even after all the natural calamities and catastrophes.

Climb 3-4 stairs and you enter the first hall of the Kedarnath Temple. The Temple is dark and gloomy form inside, It houses statues of the five Pandava brothers (Bhim, Nakula, Yudishitra, Arjun and Sahadeva) and their consort Drapudi, Lord Krishna, Nandi- the vehicle of Shiva in the center and Virabhadra (one of the guards of Shiva). Another beautiful silver door decorated with Om makes you enter the main hall. In the center of the main hall, is a conical or triangular-shaped stone considered to be the Dhad (Torso) of Lord Shiva. The stone was completely covered in ghee and butter by pilgrims. Earlier the pilgrims used to pour milk and water on Shivlinga but now the management has stopped it. The statue of Shiva and other deities are also installed in the main hall.

Outside Kedarnath Temple

As you step out the temple and start circumvallating around the temple; you will see the temple is surrounded by snow-covered peaks from all three sides. On the front, there is a huge statue of Nandi.

And rest on all the sides, dozens of Sadhus and Saints, half-dressed half-naked are sitting in various colorful attires. They are Lord Shiv devotees and live a hard tough life, like him.

On both sides there are beautiful colorful doors that resemble the ones from Badrinath Temple and at the back is an Amrit Kund. Some Pilgrims just wanted to just touch and taste this water whereas others wanted to fill the bottles and take back home.

Just Like Bheem Shila in Mana village near Badrinath temple, there is a huge Shri Divya Bhim Shila behind the Temple. This stone is believed to be the one that protected the temple from devastation during the 2013 North India flash floods. But the locals or priests have another story to it. They believe the Shila is just another stone that came down during natural calamity towards Kedarnath Temple and it is the pilgrims who have made a temple around it and now consider it to be sacred.

Accommodation at Kedarnath

At Kedarnath, there are several accommodation options from Hotels to guest houses to Bhawans. During our visit, only a few of them were operational whereas the others were closed or in bad shape due to the extreme snowfall in winters. The government claims to have made an arrangement of 3000 pilgrims but we really doubt that.

GMVN (Garhwal Vayu Mandal Nigam) the government authorized tents were also operational at Kedarnath but they were far from Kedarnath Temple and charges were Rs.900/- per bed for 6 Bedded huts, Rs. 750/- per bed for 10 Bedded huts and Rs. 300/- for tents, with common sharing washrooms.

GMVN Accommodation at Kedarnath Base Camp

We stayed at Agra Bhawan, just next to the Temple, where a four-bedroom with attached washroom costed us Rs. 3000/- and 1 bucket of hot water costs around Rs.80/-. Another good option we recommend to stay in Himachal Bhawan just opposite Agra Bhawan and near to Temple.

The view of Kedarnath Temple from Agra Bhawan

Food and Market at Kedarnath Dham

As you leave the Kedarnath Temple and move down the stairs, start the Kedarnath Haat Market. During our visit, there was lots of snow around the shops and the whole of the market looked closed only.

20-25 steps down from the Kedarnath Temple is a food shop that serves Indian food, Tea, snacks, etc. Just opposite to it there was another operational Dhabha.

Another option for getting food is the guest house or Bhawan, where you are staying at but we opted to have it in the market itself.

Weather at Kedarnath Dham

Kedarnath is really unpredictable in terms of weather. If one moment it is sunny, another moment the weather can take a twist and it will be snowing. You will find banners everywhere on the route quoting you to carry Warm Clothes, Raincoats, and Umbrellas with you, and they actually make a lot of sense. We experienced all types of weather in a single trip.

Here, the Day temperatures vary between 5- 10 degrees Celsius whereas the night temperatures can go low to -5 degree Celsius too.

Rains while coming back from Kedarnath Temple

What you need to wear for Kedarnath Trek

For the Kedarnath trip, one needs to pack and wear clothes in layers. While walking or at some places, you may feel hot and removing layers but be really cautious. The clothes you must wear are:

Inner Layer
T- Shirt
Fleece Layer
Jacket (Wind and water proof)
Gloves and Cap

Packing for Kedarnath Temple Trek

At Kedarnath Dham, you have limited options for everything from living to food, so just pack a small backpack. The must in the backpack should be a towel, toiletry kit, an extra pair of your clothes, medicines, and a small portion of energy food like nuts, chocolates, or energy bars.

Dressed in Multiple Layers for Kedarnath Trek

In case of emergency, there is a medicine shop and relief center at Kedarnath, from where one can make a purchase.

Facts about Kedarnath Temple

Just like Badrinath Temple, Kedarnath Temple is a part of Badrinath and Kedarnath Temple act
The head priest of Temple belongs to Karnataka and is known as a Raval
Raval does not perform the puja in the temple. The pujas are carried out on the instructions of the Raval by other priests.
The Raval moves with the deity to Ukimath during the winter season
About 6000 pilgrims visit Temple every day during the season
Temple opens for only 5-6 months and during rest months it is engulfed among the snow

Places around Kedarnath Temple

Bhairon/ Bhairav Nath Ji Temple

The Bhairo Nath Temple, located at a very short distance from Kedarnath Temple is known as a guardian of the Kedarnathji. It is believed that Bhaironathji guards the Kedarnath Temple by keeping away the evil while the temple remains closed. Therefore the Bhairon Nath Temple is visited ceremoniously at the opening and closing of Kedarnath.

During our visit, the Bhairav Nath Temple was yet not opened. So, the Aarti ceremony was not even performed at the Kedarnath Temple.

Kunds at Kedarnath

It is said that there are several Kund at Kedarnath but still many of them haven’t been revived after the 2013 Disaster. The one we could see clearly was Google Kund.

Google Kund

Around 0.5 Km from Kedarnath Temple, there is an interesting semi-frozen Kund known as Google Kund.

Chorabari Sarovar / Gandhi Sarovar

At a distance of 3 km from Kedarnath Temple, at 12,795 feet lies a beautiful lake known as Chorabari Sarovar or Gandhi Sarovar fed on Chorabari Glacier. The trek to Lake passes through green grasslands and it is advised to carry the trek during the morning only as temperature and weather changes here drastically.

The Sarovar was initially known as Kanti Sarovar and was renamed to Gandhi Sarovar in 1948 when the ashes of Mahatma Gandhi were immersed into the Sarovar. But now, no more the lake exists as the glacier has resided.

Vasuki Tal

Vasuki Tal lies at 13, 566 feet, and can be reached by trekking for 8 kms from Kedarnath Temple. The trek is said to be extremely steep, difficult and can be carried only under supervision. Vasuki Tal is surrounded by high mountain peaks and offers a view of Chaukhamba peak.

There are several beautiful, colorful flowers around the Vasuki Tal and one of the famous flowers is Brahma Kamal. During winter the lake is completely frozen.

Rudra Meditation Cave/ Modi meditation Cave

Around 1.5 kilometers from Kedarnath Temple, at GMVN, in isolation are available underground mediation caves known as Rudra or Modi Meditation caves. The caves have a window for the direct view of Shrine and can be booked at Rs.990/- per day, for a maximum period of 3 days. They are equipped with electricity, water, heater, attached toilet, and phone to call authorities in case of emergency.

Before dwelling into the cave, one needs to undergo a medical test at Guptakashi and only those found medically fit can stay here. And only one person can stay at a time inside the cave. For more details and bookings check here.

Shankaracharya Samidhi

The resting place of Adi Shankaracharya is an extremely renowned place in Kedarnath. The hot water spring present there is believed to remove all the suffering of the devotees.

Places to stay in Base Camp Gaurikund

There are several hotels, guest houses and Bhawans to stay in Gaurikund but if you have no prior bookings then availability will be completely on your LUCK. We went prior booking and trust me, we had a tough time finding one for ourselves. Finally, we got a room in the market at Subash Hotel, with the attached washroom. 4 of us (We and our parents) accommodated in a 3-bedroom which costed us Rs. 1500/. And a bucket of hot water cost us Rs. 60/- per head.

Note: Hotels, guest house people don’t take advance bookings in Gaurikund, even on giving advance and pricing changes every day. The maximum they can charge is Rs.3000/- per night.

Our Experience on Horses

Honestly, this was the first time we had covered the journey on a horse and it was not at all an easy task. If our horseman had not been so cooperative and good, we would have not been able to do this journey. The process of ascending is much easier than the process of descending.

The tip to remember here is to bend forward while climbing upward and bend backward while climbing down and hold the saddle tightly.

Things to Remember before taking up Kedarnath Trek

Check the weather forecast before planning the trip. Also, inquire about the weather at Sonprayag check post and then at Gaurikund check post. Further government has made special rules for the continuation and discontinuation of the trek.
Get a medical checkup done before going for a Kedarnath trek
People with respiratory disorders, cardiac disorders, and high blood pressure should take special care
Remember while trekking to Kedarnath doesn’t exert yourself too much. Do not lose your breath while walking and halt if you think that you are experiencing shortness of breath.
Hire a pony/ horse/ palki from the base camp itself, if you have made up your mind to trek with them. Also check, your horseman is not less than 18 years, as they are not allowed to ride passengers up and down
There are fixed trek timings. Also, if personnel’s stop you going further beyond one-point it’s for your safety and please abide by the rules
There are accommodations available on the way at Jungle Chatti, Bheembali and Linchauli
All mobile networks work well at Kedarnath. The best ones were Vodafone, Jio, and BSNL. Airtel was showing 4G but the signal was playing hide and seek
Be safe and cautious from falling stones especially during rain and snow. Recently one pilgrim from Punjab was hit by a shooting stone and she died on the spot.

Overall Experience

Trek to Kedarnath Temple is quite challenging and one actually needs a good fitness level to do it. The lofty snow-covered peaks, verdant grasslands, and River Mandakini makes the trek to Kedarnath unforgettable. The facilities and cleanliness on the way and at Kedarnath Temple are completely beyond expectations. Incredible India is definitely doing a great job to make Char Dham Yatra seamless.

Places of Interest on the way to Kedarnath

Devprayag – where Sangam of River Alaknanda and River Bhagirathi happens

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Rudraprayag – where Sangam of River Alaknanda and River Mandakini happens

Sonprayag – where Sangam of River Basuki and River Mandakini happens

Agastmuni / Augustyamuni – 20 km from Rudraprayag lies the Agastmuni Temple built in the name of famous Saint Agastya

Guptkashi – is believed to be a place where Lord Shiva hid from the Pandavas. The place has two temples. Viswanath temple has several incarnations of Lord Shiva. Ardhanareeshwar temple, on the other hand, depicts Lord Shiva in the form of half-man and half-woman. In addition, there are two streams of water located in the temple, which symbolize the two holy rivers, Ganges and Yamuna.

Gaurikund – Gaurikund the base camp to Kedarnath, houses an ancient temple of Goddess Paravati. It is said that Goddess Paravati meditated here for a long time to win Lord Shiva as her husband. There is also a common hot water spring here. For Ladies, there is a separate one too but currently, it was not operational.

Ukhimath- is the winter abode of Lord Kedarnath and Madhyamaheshwar

Triyuginarayan Temple – located at a distance of 5 Kilometers from Sonprayag, is a Temple where Lord Shiva tied the knot with Goddess Parvati. Tourists visiting this sightseeing place can also make a visit to other attractions such as Vishnu Kund, Rudra Kund, and Brahma Kund.

Bhutan, India, Nepal, Sikkim, Tibet, Tourism, Travel, Uttarakhand

Caterpillar Fungus Yarsagumba- The Himalayan Viagra

April 27, 2019 allgudthings 19 Comments

Hey, stop the car and look over that mountain, he is my father and brother – said a local girl whom we gave lift while travelling in North Sikkim, India. Our driver immediately halted the car. We came out and saw not two but a caravan of people literally lying and crawling the high mountain slopes at an altitude about 13000 feet. I asked her in astonishment what are they doing there to which she replied, they are collecting Yarsagumba. That was the first time we heard the name Yartsa gunbu and there we made up our mind to find more about this Caterpillar Fungus Yarsagumba.

What is Caterpillar Fungus Yarsagumba?

As the name says, the caterpillar fungus Yarsagumba is a combination of Caterpillar and Fungus (mushroom). It is found at an altitude above 3500 meters i.e. above 11,500 feet in the Himalayan regions of Tibet, India, Nepal and Bhutan.

How is it formed?

Just prior to rainy season, the Himalayan Caterpillars which are found deep in moist soil, while feeding on plant roots, gets infected by the cordyceps fungus. During winter and fall, the fungus slowly and steadily buries itself completely in the caterpillar body, making its way out through the insect head. Insect almost dies during this period, as its whole energy gets used by the fungus.

With the arrival of spring, the overlying snow starts melting and the fungus forces its almost dead hosts towards the surface, before sending a dark brown spore filled stalk through their heads. So, the combination Yartsa Gumba is also known as “winter worm summer grass”

Why & How is Yartsa Gumba collected?

The caterpillar fungus Yarsagumba is the world’s most expensive fungus and has unbelievable medicinal benefits. Indeed, its price is much more than the precious gold, diamond, platinum and other metals. So, it is collected by locals as a source of income for their living and this helps them to pay for their food, clothes, medical bills, and education. The Himalayan Gold Rush allows them to eke out a living which otherwise they would have just imagined.

The medicinal herb collectors work in May – June months. Their work looks simple from down but it is quite laborious. They crawl on the steep slopes in cold and sometimes rain, wearing multiple layers, improper shoes, in low oxygen to spot the extruded dark stalks of herb separating it from the sedges. After spotting, digging them out is even trickier as turf in these areas is thick and it’s important to keep the two parts i.e. fungus and caterpillar intact as one piece. Even if one breaks off, the herb loses its value.

Apart from income, locals take this work as a social hangout time with their friends and that is what we say is the positive side of life.

History of Caterpillar Fungus

Yarsagumba and its medicinal value is not a new discovery. Tibetans discovered its value 1500 years ago. The Tibetan Sherpa’s used to leave animals into jungle for grazing. After somedays, they observed that the animals had gone more active, the ones not reproducing were reproducing and they were not even getting ill. The human curious nature, made them chase animals in the jungle and there they found the miraculous Yarsagumba.

Medicinal value of Caterpillar Fungus Yarsagumba

Yarsagumba, also known as Himalayan Viagra is an aphrodisiac and is used to treat hypo sexuality. Apart this it also acts as antitumor, antioxidant, antidepressant, ant arteriosclerotic, and anti-inflammatory. It can cure night sweats, hyperglycemia, hyperlipidemia, asthenia, arrhythmias, diabetes, Jaundice and other heart, respiratory, renal, and liver diseases.

Boon, Bribe, Curse, Crime or Conflict

By now, we all know a brief about the caterpillar fungus Yarsagumba and the miraculous wonders it can do, but do you know the other effects it has brought with it. Its demand has already overpowered its supply.

Earlier the herb was only available to Elites but the trends started changing in 1993, when the three Chinese runner set a record of 1500 meter in 3 minutes 50 seconds at World Championship athletics and later their coach claimed that the success of her athletes is due to consumption of Yarsagumba and turtle soup. This incident raised the value of commodity and had put it on the world map.

During this time, Hong Kong, Singapore used to be the largest consumers but by 2004 China became the largest markets and its price increased by several folds. Chinese consume it every day in their meals and it also replaced Champagne as a gift. Indeed, people started using it as a bribe too. The larger the piece, the more value it has. Daniel Winkler the Yarsagumba expert says “that a businessman looking to impress in China wouldn’t pull out a fine pinot noir to flaunt his wealth; he’d cook up some nice goose or duck and fill it with $1,000 worth of caterpillar fungus”.

Note: In 2008, one kilogram of Caterpillar Fungus Yarsagumba was traded for US$3,000 (lowest quality) to over US$18,000 (best quality, largest larvae) whereas in 2013 its price surged to US $ 25000 -$75000.

Because of this surging demand and high pricing, the production brought every villager, including women and children for collection, which clearly meant every single piece of Yarsagumba was plucked and not even an inch of fertile land was spared. All this got detriment to the natural reproduction process and hence leading to sharp decrease in production. Apart this, other factors which are considered responsible for decline in production are change in climatic and soil conditions, grazing of cattle and other environmental changes.

The medicinal fusion Yarsagumba too has led to crimes and conflicts among villagers. In 2009, in Manang District, close to the Nepal-Tibet border, a large posse of local men and boys, upon hearing of interlopers picking Yarsagumba in their meadows, had beaten two of the suspected poachers to death, throwing their bodies down a deep crevasse and killed rest with sticks and stones.

Yarsagumba in India

The Caterpillar fungus Yarsagumba also known as Keeda Jadi is found in Uttarakhand (Chamoli, Pithoragarh, Munsiyari, Bhageshwar and Uttarkashi) and northeast India.

Also Read: Monal Tourist Home in Uttarkashi

Common names of Yarsagumba

There are several name for Caterpillar fungus. In Tibet it is known as Yarza Gunbu, Yarshagumba, Yarchagumba whereas in Bhutan it is called yartsa guenboob. In Nepal and India, it is known as keera jhar, keeda jadi, keeda ghas or ghaas fafoond. And in China, it is called as Summer Grass Winter Bug.

Conclusion

After talking to locals and on research we found that very human in the upper Himalayas during favorable season runs to collects Yarsagumba. Each collected piece is like a fate changer to them. It helps them to travel, buy good food and clothes. But with the recent trends, production is declining at a high grade and it can even extinct if the same trend continues.