Chanshal Pass: Road less travelled in Himachal Pradesh, India

June 29, 2018 allgudthings 27 Comments

Undisturbed green meadows bedded with flowers and medicinal plants, where clouds play hide and seek, where cool breeze makes you hide between the rocks, where crow finds tough to take its flight, where you feel on the top of the world is what describes the not so famous Chanshal Pass.

The temperatures had been continuously soaring in Delhi and we wanted to escape the heat for few days. So, we made a plan to take another road trip to the offbeat place in Himachal i.e. Rohru and Chanshal Pass.

About Rohru and Chanshal Pass or Chanshal Valley

Town Rohru lies 115 Kilometers from Shimla, on the banks of River Pabbar at 5,003 feet. The place is considered as a business hub and is well known for apple farming and trout fishing. Indeed, the Rohru – Hatkoti- Jubbal – Kotkhai belt is known as “Apple Valley” or “Golden belt” of Himachal.

The Chanshal Pass lies 49 kilometers ahead from Rohru at 12,320 feet and is a main connect between town Rohru and twin villages Dodra Kwar in the Shimla district. Whereas the highest Chanshal Peak stands erect at 14,830 feet.

Route from Delhi we took: Delhi – Panipat – Karnal – Zirakpur – Shimla – Theog – Kotkhai –Jubbal – Hatkoti- Rohru

Other Route ahead Shimla: Shimla – Theog – Narkanda- Tikkar – Rohru

So, in total, the scenic Chanshal valley lies 489 kilometers from Delhi, 159 kilometers from Shimla, 49 kilometers from Rohru and 169 kilometers from Chakrata in Uttarakhand.

We (AllGudThings), started from Delhi around 12 pm and retired our first day at Chandigarh. Next day we started our journey from Chandigarh around 11 am, reached Rohru at 7 pm and made our base at Hotel Chanshal, Rohru.

Near Theog on the way to Rohru and Chanshal Pass

Google Maps were showing the further distance from Rohru to Chanshal Pass 49 kilometers and time 2 hours 30 minutes whereas locals confirmed it will take around 4 hours. Listening this all, we were highly confused but being tired we retired for the day early thinking to explore it tomorrow.

Journey to Chanshal Pass

So, next day after having breakfast at Hotel Chanshal, we started our journey to Chanshal Pass.

Route: Rohru – Samoli – Seema- Magwani – Chirgaon- Sandasu- Tikkri- Larot – Chanshal Paass

From Rohru till Village Chirgaon i.e. for 15 kilometers one drives up and down along the river bed crossing colorful villages. The real journey starts only after Chirgaon.

Cross the Chirgaon bridge and the views change drastically. The uphill drive starts with a narrow single lane. Roads are metaled till one point and the maximum speed you can drive is up to 30 kilometers/hour.

Although the drive through the narrow roads is tough but is equally scenic too. If on one side, there are apple orchards then the another side offers breathtaking views of wide valleys with river flowing in between.

Just a few Kilometers ahead stands Village Sandansu. Here, men were soaking in the sun, whereas women looked busy in their households and cattle work. Children were playing cricket on the flattened surface in this beautiful heaven. Everything looked so pure and we were completely lost in their dwellings.

From here ride for some more distance, cross a bridge and the real challenging roads starts for Village Tikkri. The metaled roads become graveled roads and there is a continuous accent with sharp turns. The sky touching deodar trees occupy road on both sides, giving a pleasant woody smell and the variety of flora changes too.

The other last scenic Village on the way is Larot. Its first look made us say- it surely is one of the prettiest Himachal village. The village too has a Himachal Pradesh PWD Guest house which can be booked in advance for accommodation. Till Larot, we covered 18 more kilometers in 2 hours; totaling it to 33 kilometers.

After this starts the last leg of the toughest and most adventurous road trip. The last 16 kilometers here means drive of almost 2 hours. Yes! We are serious not joking. It is a continuous accent and we literally saw Sedan trying to climb but failed. Deodar trees number starts decreasing while climbing and almost became zero at one point. You will be driving continuously along the green mountain reaching almost to its top. If its cloudy on the way, then you will be above the clouds and the views leave you speechless.

From far, we saw the piled up Mani stones and thought we have reached the pass. But it was a recently setup Hotel White Valley, Chanshal (Almost 2 kilometers before the pass). The hotel had 5-6 tents and a shack in front of it. We felt it is a beautiful place to camp but wonder how they will be tackling the supersonic winds there.

We continued our journey further and finally could see some vehicles standing there. This for sure looked like pass and it was – Chanshal Pass.

At Chanshal Pass

As we stepped out from our cars, the winds were blowing at their maximum speeds. Woolens came out in no time and we were dressed to explore it.

Locals had come for picnic; people were doing Natti (Himachal Local Dance). So overall, it looked like a famous spot among locals. Anyways, we started walking towards the pass. People far away were climbing the hilltop. Seeing this even we were curious to reach faster on the top but the landscapes around us were completely irresistible.

We were almost clicking every minute. The place was no less than a paradise. The mountain slopes were carpeted in green with a topping of pink, blue and yellow flowers. And at some places the figurine rocks appeared most charming.

This whole dramatic route tapered to the velvety meadows on the top. From one edge of these open meadows we could see the Pabbar valley and on another side was Dodra Kwar region. What an incredible place it is? We had honestly never seen something as beautiful as this valley.

Further a bit more hike and you are almost at the top point. Here, some folks were testing their photography skills whereas others were sitting in a peace admiring the colors of nature. But yes, everybody was happy in their own way including us and our parents.

We were there for an hour and in the meantime clouds started roaring and rain drops started pouring. We rushed and headed to the single shack for some maggi and tea. After gulping it, we planned to turn back as it was already 3:00 pm.

But some people are crazy like me who can climb and open arms anywhere to breathe. While returning back the views were equally thrilling as they were while going up. The only difference was a thick cover of clouds had captured the whole sky.

We reached down bit faster and were at Chirgaon by 6:00 pm. For sure, it was the most adventurous journey and a journey to remember forever.

History of Chanshal Pass

The Chanshal Pass and connecting villages Dodra Kwar have real interesting history. Imagine, in the era of road revolution, this area was devoid of a motor able road till 2009. The reason for the same was – Locals’ tribes were against constructing road; as their local Deity didn’t permit them for road building. The Deity finally agreed to the proposal in 2006 and the 92-kilometer-long road was laid down between Rohru – Chanshal Pass – Dodra-Kwar region in 2009. The road construction took 3 years because of the inhospitable terrain, high amount of rain and snow.

Best Time to Visit Chanshal Pass

Chanshal Valley and Pass is accessible from May to October. For rest months the roads and pass is completely snow covered.

How to Reach Rohru and Chanshal Pass

Rohru and Chanshal Pass can be reached from Himachal or Uttarakhand.

From Himachal – The nearest airport is at Shimla or Kullu whereas the nearest railway station is at Shimla. From there one can hire a cab, travel by bus or drive own vehicle.

Uttarakhand- The nearest airport and railway station is at Dehradun. From there one can there one can hire a cab, travel by bus or drive by his own vehicle. The other considerable option is to do Chakrata– Tuini- Rohru Circuit.

Remember: if you are travelling by bus; there is a fixed schedule for bus service while going up and down. We spotted one from Himachal around 3 pm.

Important Tips for Road Trip to Chanshal Pass

It is one of the steepest and adventurous trail. So, be really slow and patient while driving
Start your day early to spend enough time at the top. Also plan to return timely in the evening
Remember you will be ascending from 5,000 feet to 12,000 feet and vice versa. So, there are high chances of AMS (Altitude Sickness) hitting you. Be really cautious. Advice is keep sipping small amount of water and if you feel any of the symptoms worsening, make a decision to descend down
Slopes of Chanshal Pass has some medicinal plants. Be cautious, if you are allergic. Especially take care of children who are extremely sensitive
Do carry woolens along as the weather changes here abruptly
Be sure about your vehicle before ascending and descending. The last motor workshop is at Chirgaon
Last Petrol station is at Rohru
Airtel, Vodafone, BSNL almost all networks work perfectly till Chirgaon, whereas after that there is continuous up and down or no network
Last ATM’s services are available at Rohru
The nearest medical facilities are available at Rohru only
If you are planning to stay at Larot PWD guest house, make your bookings in advance
There is only one shack at the top which serves you maggi, tea, coffee, Rice – Dal etc
Also plan to visit Dodra—Kwar village

Overall Experience at Chanshal Pass

Chanshal Pass looks like a paradise where man is actually a part of nature, where there is a perfect blend of facts and myths, where there are stories of legends and realities, where there is a mix of mountains, orchards and meadows. The roads connecting the hidden villages here is beyond imagination. So, what are you waiting for! Go and explore the Pabbar Valley and Chanshal Pass yourself, before it too becomes touristy.

You can check more picture of Rohru and Chanshal Pass on our Instagram account. And, If you have questions, feel free to type in the comment section. We will be happy to answer them.

India, Jammu & Kashmir, Tourism, Travel

Leh Palace- Once the Residence of Royals in Ladakh

June 17, 2018 allgudthings 20 Comments

When we talk about Leh Ladakh, we all talk about the colorful monasteries, vast landscapes, cobalt blue sky, high passes, high altitude lakes and the Tibetan culture there. Nobody talks or indeed tells about the grandeur unique Leh Ladakh Palaces there. During our 13-day road trip to Leh Ladakh, we made it a point to explore some Leh Ladakh Palaces and one of them was the majestic Leh Palace.

About Leh Palace

Overlooking the Himalayan Leh town, on the top of Tsemo Hill lies the former palace or residence of Royals known as Leh Palace. Locally, the Palace is also known as Lhachen Palkar. It is a 9 storied structure one of its own kind erected in the 17^th century. Indeed it was the tallest of all structures during its heydays.

The Leh Palace looks quite distinct from the other Palaces of India – quite simple, yet elegant and its greyish black dun color merges well with the surroundings. Palace has almost no signage board except the history board at the entrance and various board markings on the floor levels. So, scratch your head, make guesses and talk to the guards to find out facts about the Leh Palace, exactly as we did.

Ticket for Leh Palace

For Indians Rs. 15/- per person & Foreign Nationals – Rs.100/- per person. Camera charges are Rs. 25/-

Timings to visit

From sunrise to sunset

History of Leh Palace

The construction of Leh Palace was initiated by Tsewang Namgyal, the founder of the Namgyal Dynasty in the 16^th century and was completed by King Sengge Namgyal, the 5^th king of Ladakh in the 17^th century. It is said to be the replica of the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet, except being smaller in size.

The Palace was the residence of the Royals till it was attacked by the Dogra forces. During the attack, Leh Palace suffered quite losses and family was shifted to the Stok Palace. Today, the palace stands still but is in battered shape. The restoration work here is carried out by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

The architecture of Leh Palace

Leh Palace is a perfect example of Tibetan architecture. It has 9 stories in total, out of which Level 1 and 2 lays separate from the rest Levels. The lower two floors 1 and 2 were used as storerooms and stables whereas the upper floors were used as their residence by Royals.

The Palace has no such plush flamboyant décor, to attract tourists or travelers. It is simply made of wood, mud, sand, and stone. The uniqueness is the way 9 floors are laid down on the slanting hill and its buttressed walls. The materials used in the construction are used with a purpose. The mud keeps the rooms warm in winters and cool in summers. Wood acts as an insulator and prevents loss of heat. Sand is used as a gluing material in between the stones.

Level Third – Entrance

After parking our car, a long cobbled road took us to the main Palace entrance. We thought it to be the first floor but it was actually third. So, the main entrance to the Palace is at the third level. The entrance has wooden pillars and some ferocious Lion carvings on it, decorated with Tibetan clothes.

From there started the long dark corridors with the maze of several small rooms with low entrances. The whole place from inside looked gloomy and some of the rooms had now been turned into the exhibition halls.

The only attraction we saw in these rooms were the huge glass windows which gave the panoramic view of Leh town and Polo ground. And the irony is now the Polo ground is just a taxi stand. We also heard the guide describing that King used to sit here and watch the Polo match. Isn’t that the example of a luxurious life?

Level Four – Khatok Chenmo

The end of the corridor on the third floor had a steep staircase that took us straight to level four. The open courtyard in the front here, offered the magnificent view of Leh town whereas the sides had beautiful, geometrically designed windows and overhanging balconies. The windows were decorated with yellow prayer flags, making it highly contrasting and appealing. On the other end, I could see the staircase leading to the top floors and the curiosity was juggling in me was to reach the top soon.

Before we could climb to the next level; we saw the signage reading Duk – Kar- Lhakhang, also known as the temple of the Royals. Being hesitant is removing our shoes, we skipped going inside the temple. But the multiple pair of shoes outside completely depicted that Temple is still active and used for offerings. On inquiring we got to know, the Temple houses a statue of Lord Buddha and several ancient religious literatures. And from there, we further climbed the stairs to reach the next level.

Level Five – Hall of Public Audience

Again the zigzag, low lying corridors behaved no less than a maze to us. Indeed, I and Tashi were lost in our own direction and simultaneously were searching for each other. Here we saw a huge naturally lit room i.e. Hall of Public Audience, now used as an exhibition hall by ASI. There were several murals and paintings in the room. Some of them appeared to be more than 500- 600 years old and were now in dwindling state.

Level Six – The Royal Apartment

Level 6 appeared to be a more open and spacious courtyard. Also. the view of Leh city was widening with an increase in every level. In the center of Level 6, stood the top surface of the Hall of Public Audience, giving ample light to the room. On one end of the courtyard, there is a The Royal Apartment, secluded from everything whereas the other end leads to the trailing stairs to the next levels.

Level Seven- The Last Courtyard

The steep stairs from Level 6 took us to another higher level of the courtyard, offering the most thrilling panoramas of Leh city. The views were so contrasting that probably one can get confused looking at his own pictures. If one side of the Leh city is painted in green, the other side is probably painted in the dun shades and the front had a tint of both.

From here, you also get a perfect view of Tsemo Namgyal Castle, built by King Tashi Namgyal in the 16^th century.

Level 8 and Level 9 of Leh Palace

The last two levels 8 and 9 looked more broken down as compared to the rest levels and were closed for the public. The Guard sitting at the 7^th level told us that probably these levels also had been the royal rooms used for their own living.

Level 1 and 2

Now the only left part was Level 1 and 2. We wanted to go down and explore it but it was already time for sunset and Palace to shut down. So, we just clicked some shots of the same from level 3 while exiting. And these levels were used as stables and storehouses of the Royals.

How to reach Leh Palace

Leh Palace lies almost 2 kilometers away from the main Leh Market on the hilltop. There are two options to reach here. One is by driving till the palace and second is climbing the steep slopes from the Leh market. The first one is easier but the second one is more adventurous. The climb makes you pass through the Ladakhi houses and shops and it can be covered in 20-25 minutes.

Some Important Tips

Leh Palace is dark from the inside, so Nyctophobic people be prepared for the journey
The doors are really small. So, mind your head. Indeed, you will also find the boards quoting “Mind your head” with in the palace
Carry a water bottle to stay hydrated as it really gets tiring while climbing up and down
Wear flat shoes and comfortable clothing
Remove shoes before entering the Temple
Listen to the guards and don’t enter the prohibited areas as they have a valid reason to stop you from entering them. Palace is almost in broke downstate, so be safe
Don’t lean against the overhanging balconies and windows

Our Opinion

The visit to Leh palace is a journey to the primitive world. Its starking grand building is quite unique as compared to the other palaces of India. It clearly depicts the royalty and the power Royals had enjoyed. And the best is views- if on one side you see bustling Leh town, then on the other is Stok Kangri and Zanskar Himalayan range. We still can’t get over the views we had enjoyed and lived there.

That was all about our experience. Have you visited the Leh Palace or you want to visit it? Do share your thoughts on the same in the comment section. You can also pin it or share it with friends and family.

Other articles you can Check from Leh Ladakh series are:

Leh Ladakh Road trip from Delhi

A walk with Indian soldier at Kargil War Memorial

Nubra Valley: The Valley of Flowers in Ladakh

A day at White Lake Tso Kar in Ladakh

Attractions on the Srinagar Leh Highway

Ladakh-The land of High Passes

All you need to know about Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit

Story of Gata Loops

Dos and Donts for Ladakh Road Trip

Hemis Monastery: Biggest & Wealthiest Gompa in Ladakh

Sonamarg, Kashmir – The Golden Meadows of India

Bhuttico Kullu Shawls & Accessories – The Gift of Valley

Leh Ladakh Palaces

10 reasons why everyone should travel India

The colored Tibetan Prayer Stones – Mani Stones

India, Jammu & Kashmir, Tourism, Travel

Dos and Donts for Ladakh Road Trip

June 13, 2018 allgudthings 19 Comments

Leh – Ladakh the crown of India or the Land of high passes is the dreamland of every adventurist. It boasts to be the land where the valleys extend in several kilometers, where mountains are dotted with innumerable ancient Buddhist Monasteries, where the sky is cobalt blue during the day and fill with infinity stars at night, where you can see a shooting star every moment, where there is a desert on one end and the high Rocky Mountains on others. But do you know to see all this, one needs to cross the most Treacherous Roads, with poor connectivity and sometimes huge traffic jams. Yes! You read it right. Here the quote “Difficult roads often lead you to beautiful destinations” perfectly fits in. So, in this post, we have compiled up certain pointers that you must keep in mind before heading for the Ladakh road trip.

Do make sure you know how to Drive in the mountains

Whether you enter from Manali and take exit via Srinagar or vice –versa, roads are narrow and serpentine with lots of mud, gravel, and potholes. So, take a decision to drive to Leh Ladakh only if you are confident with your driving skills. Otherwise, hire a cab or take a flight to Leh and you can check the Leh Ladakh Road Trip itinerary here.

Don’t Rush

Leh Ladakh road trip is one of the most scenic road trips in India. Indeed, there are unlimited panoramas on the way. So be slow, make unsolicited stops to capture gushing rivers, glaciers, pitch blue skies, and locals.

We reached Leh from Delhi on the fourth Day, making multiple stops. And the maximum of these was on the Srinagar Leh Highway. But have no regrets as every stoppage left a unique impression on the heart.

Do Rest and Acclimatize, before heading to the next stop

While road tripping to Leh Ladakh from Delhi one should gain altitude slowly and gradually. This will give the body enough time to adapt to the low oxygen levels with ever-increasing altitude. Indeed it will help to beat or avoid Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) / Altitude Sickness. In case, you still suffer from it, then take Diamox.

We also suggest you to consult your doctor prior to your Leh Ladakh road trip if you have any breathing issues.

Don’t refer to Google Maps for the time frame

We all rely on Google Maps for getting time estimates to reach a particular destination but at the same time, we suggest you not to rely on Google Maps when in the land of High passes. Here, the map may show you just a distance of 100 kilometers which can be covered in 3 hours, but in actual it takes around 6-7 hours to cover it. So, the only advice is to start your journey early and retire for the day too timely.

Treacherous Roads in Ladakh which will definitely longer

Do make sure your documents are complete

Ladakh lies in a sensitive zone as it shares its border with neighboring countries like China and Pakistan. So, everyone needs special permits to enter and roam in this zone. Indians need Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit and foreign Nationals need Protected Area Permit to visit them. You can read all about the Inner Line Permit here, before taking a road trip to Ladakh.

Don’t attempt to take Shortcuts

Shortcuts are alluring. They might take you through the most adventurous routes but can be equally dangerous, especially in Leh Ladakh. So we advise you not to follow GPS in Leh Ladakh and stay on the highways only. Locals can give you the best, recent updates on the routes. Talk to them before leaving.

Do make a visit to the Leh Ladakh Palaces before they Disappear

Leh Ladakh castles are architectural marvels on the hilltop hidden from the rest of the world. They might have been majestic during their eras but today only their ruins and rubble exist. So we advise you to take little detours where ever required and visit these palaces before they completely disappear.

We explored 6 Leh Ladakh Palaces during our Leh Ladakh Road trip and each one was completely unique in its own way.

Don’t depend on Phone and Internet Connectivity

Phone and Internet connectivity is extremely sparse in Ladakh, especially after crossing Sonamarg. Airtel postpaid and BSNL works well in Leh and other tourist towns like Kargil on the way, whereas in Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri and Tso Kar only BSNL works. The Leh Ladakh road trip was a perfect way to digital detox but we think it won’t be in the coming years as we saw the phone connection lines getting spread on most of the routes.

During our road trip to Leh Ladakh, most of the guesthouses were offering net connectivity but the speed was really slow because of multiple users.

Do carry some Food Supplies and Medicines

Ladakh is considered as one of the remotest areas, after Spiti Valley. Getting medical supplies and eateries while road tripping can be really tough here. So, we suggest you to always carry some eateries and medicine with you in the car. Also, if there is an emergency do take help from the locals. They are for sure one of the happiest people to help.

Don’t be Fussy about Food and Accommodation

Remember, Leh Ladakh lies at an altitude above 10,000 feet where the living conditions are extremely tough and resources are limited. So, stop cribbing. Go with the limited expectation and accept happily whatever you get. Rest, soak your eyes and soul with natural beauty.

Do carry multiple layers of clothes

While heading from one destination to another in Leh Ladakh there is a high altitude variation. For e.g. while heading to Nubra valley from Leh, you cross KhardungLa at 18,000 feet to reach 11,000 feet, which itself means a lot of temperature change. So, the advice is to carry multiple thin layers of clothes. This will keep your body as warm as required, without making you sick.

Don’t forget to charge your Camera Batteries

Every frame on the Leh Ladakh road trip is click-worthy. So remember to charge your camera batteries and also carry some extra batteries along. Electricity supply is there in all the major towns on the way except at Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri and Tso Kar.

That is all you need to remember about planning a Leh Ladakh Road Trip. If you plan well nothing can stop you from soaking yourself with gorgeous panoramas.

The humble request is to travel responsibly. Please do not litter anywhere in the Himalayas and get your plastic waste back. Help locals wherever you can.