All Gud Things in life which give you happiness and reasons to explore more

All Gud Things in life which give you happiness and reasons to explore more

Ladakh- The Land of High Passes

Ladakh- The Land of High Passes

“Our Land is so barren and the passes so high, that only the best friends or the fiercest enemies come to visit us”

The above saying can be found everywhere on the internet about Ladakh the Land of high Passes; also known as the roof of the world but never knew the deep meaning behind it. In July 2017, while doing a 13-day long road trip to Leh Ladakh from Delhi; we saw the same quote at various places posted by BRO (Border Road Organisation) and now after visiting quite the part of Ladakh; crossing one valley to another we have understood the real meaning of each word.

Ladakh: The Land of High Passes

It is true that the whole land in Ladakh is barren; a cold desert lying at an altitude between 10,000 – 25000 feet, where temperature even dips to -50 degree Celsius in winters. The army is on its foot front guarding Indian border from Pakistan and China, and the passes are not only India’s but worlds highest. Some of these passes or La, as known in Ladakh are the highest motor able and treacherous roads. So, in this post, we will be talking about why Leh Ladakh is known as Land of high passes.The word Ladakh itself is composed of two words La and Dakh, where La stands for “passes” and Dakh stands for “many” which together comes to  Land of High Passes. It’s not 5 or 6 passes but overall there are more than 20  passes. And if you are following our itinerary then will be crossing around 15 passes. So, let’s see the passes covered by AllGudThings.

Route: Delhi – Ludhiana – Jammu – Srinagar – Sonamarg – Kargil – Leh – Hunder- Pangong Tso – Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Keylong – Manali – Chandigarh – Delhi

Ladakh – The Land of High Passes

1. Zoji La

Altitude: 11,649 feet

Road: From Sonmarg to Zoji La, roads are serpentine and single Lane

Zoji La -Ladakh, the land of high passes

The first pass; Zoji La lies on Srinagar – Leh highway is 24 km ahead from Sonamarg and is the gateway to Ladakh. This highway is also known as NH1D and has high strategic importance, as it links Ladakh with the Kashmir Valley. Zoji La is quite daring and thrilling for nature lovers as the green valleys are taken over by barren cliffs and here the winter never seems to end. The tall walls of snow can still be seen in July- August too.

Snow Wall at ZojiLa- Ladakh,the land of high passes

Just meters ahead form pass, there is a Zero point where no natural habitation exists. Here, the snow lovers can enjoy snow sports like sledding, snow bikes and trek to the barren mountain.

Zero Point at Zoji La - Ladakh, the land of high passes
Zero Point Near ZojiLa (Ladakh – The Land of High Passes)

Also, enjoy some Maggi with tea/coffee at shacks. It is really windy at the pass; so wear some woolen or wind cheater, to protect yourselves.

Note: Zojila receives on an average, 60 feet of snowfall and it opens only in April end or May.

2. Namika La (Pillar of The Sky Pass)

Altitude: 12,198 feet

Roads: Well constructed road, continuous ascent, and descent; lie 16 km ahead of Mulbekh.

The Namika La is one of the two passes between Kargil and Leh in the Zanskar mountain range. The mountain at the pass has a pillar like an object rising to the sky. The mountains around are arid and offers a 180-degree view of the valley. The Tibetan prayer flags around the summit flutter at its best.

Namika La - Ladakh, the land of high passes

3. Fotu La / Fatu La

Altitude: 13,149 feet

Roads: Well constructed road with a thick layer of tarmac, continuous ascent and descent with hair pin bends, lies 36 km ahead of Namika La and 14km from Lamayuru.

Fotu La is considered as one of the highest points on Srinagar – Leh highway. From here one gets the perfect view of rugged, brown, stacked mountains. Ahead the road descends to beautiful Lamayuru town. Personally, we feel the views from this pass are photographers and videographers delight.

Fotu La; Ladakh - The Land of High Passes
Fotu La in Ladakh – The Land of High Passes

On the pass is also located the relay station of Prasar Bharati television that serves Lamayuru village.

Relay Station of Prasar Bharati Television at Fotu La: Ladakh, the land of high passes
Relay Station of Prasar Bharati Television at Fotu La

4. Khardung La/ Khardongla (Pass of Lower Castle)

Altitude: Claimed to be at 18,380 feet, but actual height is 17,700 feet

Roads: Lies 39 km from Leh; roads are paved from Leh till South Pullu i.e almost till 24 km; After that rock and dirt road with snow melting streams in between North Pullu to South Pullu. Overall the roads are continuous winding ones.

Time Taken: 2.5 – 3 hrs

Khardongla lies in the Ladakh range and is a gateway to Nubra and Shyok valleys. The pass was built in 1976 and opened to the public only in 1988. The pass is strategically important as it is used to carry supplies to the Siachen Glacier. Khardongla offers breathtaking views, is covered with snow all around and thousands of Tibetan prayer flags decorate the place.

KhardungLa; Ladakh- The land of High Passes
KhardungLa in Ladakh- The land of High Passes

Indian as well as International tourists both need an Inner Line and Protected Area Permit for visiting this pass.

Note:

  • You will find hundreds of bikers, cyclists, and four wheelers at the pass, so this La is highly packed.
  • The roads are quite narrow & slippery because of the melting snow.
  • At this high altitude one is likely to suffer from AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), so rush back towards lower altitude as the symptoms appear. Take help if it is severe.
  • The best time to visit is between May – September, however, the pass remains open throughout.

5. Chang La (Pass towards South)

Altitude: Lies at 17,590 feet

Roads: Steep climb, well-constructed road but almost 15 km before and after the Chang La pass, the road is of loose dirt and slush. Small streams too appear across the road.

The Chang La lies on the way to Pangong Lake via Leh and is covered with snow throughout the year.  It is the main gateway to the Changthang plateau located in the Himalayas. The views from the pass are mesmerizing, scenic and adventurous along with breathlessness and extreme chill. If one is lucky enough, can get to witness snow fall happening.

ChangLa: Ladakh, The Land of High Passes

Both Indians, as well as International tourists, require inner line permit and protected area permit respectively for visiting Chang La and Pangong Tso. Read the guidelines for the same here.

Road to Pangong Tso via Chang La: Ladakh; the land of high passes
Ascent to Chang La

There is a myth that Chang pass is named after Saint Chang La but the myth is banished by army personnels.

Note:

  • It’s quite windy and chilly at Chang La, so wear woolens and cover your head and feet too.
  • Don’t stay here for more than 20 -25 minutes, to avoid AMS.
  • Check the weather conditions from locals before leaving for this route.
  • The roads are slippery and steep, be really slow and careful.
  • The best time to visit is from May – October.
  • Enjoy hot tea served by Indian army
  • Carry extra fuel from Leh

6. Rezang La

Altitude: Lies at 16,000 feet

Road: Completely dirt and gravel road, except at few places there is tarmac road.

Rezang La lies in the Chushul Valley, 46 km from Spangmik on the way to Tso Moriri. The landscapes on the way are beautiful, scenic and at times, one might be the only lone wanderers. Local advised us to follow the electricity wires, to avoid getting lost. The place is known for Rezang La Memorial; which is built as a tribute to the martyrs of Sino – Indian War, 1962.

Rezang La Memorial: Ladakh, the land of high passes
Rezang La Memorial in Ladakh; The Land of High Passes (Source)

Domestic tourists need an Inner Line Permit to travel along this way whereas International tourist needs special protected area permit.

Note: 

Rezang La lies at a really high altitude, so just stop for a short span of 20-25 minutes.

7. Chagga La/Tsaka La

Altitude: Lies at 15,242 feet

Road: Gravel, dirt and rocky road, Continuous steep road.

Tsaka La Road: Ladakh, the land of high passes
Tsaka La Road in Ladakh; The Land of High Passes (Source)

The Tsaka La lies on the way to Tso Moriri from Pangong Tso. The area around Tsaka La is almost barren and the roads are only accessible during summer months. It is advised to take this route only if you are confident enough to drive on steep mountain roads. The drive becomes tougher if roads are wet.

8. Namashang La

Altitude: 15800 feet

Road: Mostly gravel & Dirt road; steep too. One needs to be really attentive and careful here to be on the track.

The Namashang La lies between Mahe & Kyagar Tso on the way to Tso Moriri. Roads are only accessible during summers. And just like Rezang La and Chagga La, Indian tourists need Inner line permit and foreign tourists need Protected Area Permit.

9. Polo Kongka La

Altitude: 15800 feet

Road: Dirt road, not very steep, but maximum you can drive is at a speed of 20 -30 lm/hr.

Polo Kongka La lies on the way from Tso Moriri to Tso Kar near Pulga. On the way, there are many sulfur springs also known as Pulga Hot water spring.

Polo KongKa La; Ladakh: The Land of high Passes
Polo KongKa La; Ladakh: The Land of high Passes

Note:

Do check the condition of roads before leaving for Tso Kar from Tso Moriri.

10. TagLang La

Altitude: Lies at 17,582 feet

Road: The roads are well paved while ascent from Moore plains and during descent towards Upshi.

Road to Taglang La, Ladakh: The Land of High Passes
Road to Taglang La, Ladakh: The Land of High Passes

The TagLang pass lies between Leh and Pang and is considered to be the highest pass among all the passes on Manali – Leh Highway. The pass is well made, paved and there is a shack on the top too. Luckily or unluckily, at Taglang La; we experienced rain, snow and chilled wind with almost zero visibility. The mountains around are snow laden and the valleys are electrifying. The pass summit is overall laden with Tibetan prayer flags.

Taglang La, Ladakh: The land of high passes

The pass is impassable during winters. During snow melting and rains, roads become too slippery. There is a small temple on the Taglang La.

Note:

  • Temperature and oxygen supply at the pass is relatively low. So, there are high chances of AMS.
  • Stay maximum at Taglang La for 20- 25 minutes.

11. Lachung La / Lungalacha La

Altitude: 16,616 feet

Road: Steep paved road at a pass, in between patches of dirt and gravel roads, bumpy because of a lot of potholes.

The Lachung La lies on Manali – Leh highway and is 22 km from Pang. The pass is completely deserted and the cold winds blow at a very high speed. The vast landscapes, brown humped mountains, and valleys around it are known for its exquisite beauty.

Lachung La: Ladakh, The Land of High Passes

Note:

The pass gains sudden height from 15000 feet and the cold here increases tremendously. If one is not acclimatized well, he/she will surely face the symptoms of AMS.

Views from Lachung La: Ladakh, The Land of High Passes
Views from Lachung La: Ladakh, The Land of High Passes

12. Nakee La

Altitude: Lies at 15,647 feet

Roads:  Well construct red asphalt steep road passes between the rocky gorge.

The Nakee La pass too lies between Pang and Sarchu; just 19 km ahead to the LachungLa. The Indus river flows along in the valley, leaving green patches on the arid mountain slopes. As you descend from the pass, one crosses 21 hair loops known as famous Gata Loop. There is an interesting story related to the loop which we will be sharing in our next post.

NakeeLa: Ladakh; The Land of High Passes

Just like other passes, here too, it is quite windy. The weather here is really unpredictable; in seconds it changes from the sunshine to rain and snow.

NoteRoads get slippery after rain and snow, so be really careful.

13. Baralacha La

Altitude: 16,040 feet

Road: Well constructed, steep, paved road with multiple water streams flowing in between and some of these are really wild. On one side there are huge mountains, while on another deep valley; so be careful while driving.

The Baralacha La lies between Sarchu and jispa, 59 km from Sarchu in Himachal Pradesh, India. The pass summit has cross roads from Ladakh, Spiti, Zanskar, and Lahaul and was earlier a famous trade road. It is also a base for many treks. We encountered lightning and rain at Baralacha pass.  Roads and the whole valley turned foggy but still, it was really serene. We guess the pass will be much prettier in clear weather.

Baralacha La: Ladakh, The Land of high Passes

Just 3 km ahead from the pass, we saw a pentagon-shaped, turquoise blue pond, known as Suraj Taal, which is the source of river Bhaga.

The BaraLacha La closes down in winters due to heavy snowfall and one doesn’t need any permit to cross it while coming back to Manali from Leh.

Note:

  • There are multiple streams passing on the road. Cross only if it’s not extreme, as it can be dangerous.
  • Be careful with the falling rocks and landslides.
  • April to October is the best time to travel across this pass.

14. Rohtang La / Rohtam Pass (Pass of Corpuses)

Altitude: 13,054 feet

Road: The road is really rough and in dreadful condition. There are patches of gravel and then completely muddy and slushy roads. There are a lot of potholes and one mostly faces traffic jams while ascending and descending the pass.

The Rohtang La is on the Manali – Leh highway in Himachal. It lies 53 km from Manali; connects Kullu Valley with Lahaul -Spiti and is a gateway to Keylong from Manali. It is considered to be one of the most dangerous passes. Every year the pass faces many landslides, gets completely embedded in snow and the road cleaners use GPS services to dig it back. There are always chances of getting stuck in between while crossing the Rohtang pass. Sometimes the jam gets cleared only after 10 -12 hrs.

Stupa at Rohtang La : Ladakh, The Land of high Passes
Stupa at Rohtang La

The pass is highly scenic, offers views of glaciers, peaks, lush green valleys and Chandra River. Indeed it is one of our favorite passes too. While we crossed it, the whole pass was under and in between the clouds. There was hardly any visibility; the cold breeze was caressing our face but the fear of 13 days Leh Ladakh trip getting over had started biting us.

Just 6 Km ahead from the pass submit lays a Rani Nallah, which is huge and ferocious and can be dangerous too.

Note:

  • The Rohtang Pass opens only for a short window between May end or June till November. If the snowfall happens earlier than November then it also closes early.
  • One needs a Rohtang pass Permit; for visiting it from Manali.
  • Drive really slowly and be very cautious while crossing the pass.
  • Every Tuesday, pass remains closed because of the repair work carried out by BRO.
Rani Nallah at Rohtang La: Ladakh, The Land of high Passes
Rani Nallah at Rohtang La

Apart from this, there is one unknown pass around Chushul, and people have named it as Chushul Pass or Chushul La.

We encountered all colors of nature while being on this path. Crossing 15 passes in 13 days has actually made us believe that name Ladakh is perfect. It stands true to its words and is actually the mesmerizing Land of high passes. In case, you think we had missed out listing any one here, do let us know. We will try to include it, as will cover the missed out La’s in our next post of Ladakh – The Land of high passes.

Other related articles form Leh Ladakh series:

6 must visit Leh Ladakh Palaces before they disappear

A walk with Indian soldier at Kargil War Memorial

All you need to know about Inner line Permit



71 thoughts on “Ladakh- The Land of High Passes”

  • The Quote displayed by BRO is such an apt description of Ladakh. The passes are so inaccessible and at the same time breathtakingly stunning. Some of them are really tests of endurance , but of course the rewards of reaching there and revelling in the sheer beauty of the place are immeasurable. Nice round up of the passes. Your pictures urge me to get there ASAP.

  • I call it Laddakh – the dream destination of every traveller. It is so beautiful, that words fall short of describing it’s beauty. I would love to go here asap .. just waiting for my little one to grow a bit so she can acclimatize easily. What a wonderful trip you had.

  • Even though Ladakh is so barren, it’s so beautiful! I also find deserts so beautiful and mystical, and would totally compare Ladakh to them. Especially with the Baralacha La. Your picture is so beautiful! And that quote at the beginning is awesome. It’s such an unforgiving landscape that you have to have a reason which drives you to this particular area.

  • It looks absolutely beautiful. I love the wild beauty of places like this. We don’t often go to high altitudes for medical reasons as well as the fact that it’s cold, but I think I would want to make an exception for Ladakh. India is definitely on the bucket list.

  • I love reading this and checking out the photos. I love doing mountain high passes but never done any in Asia and this looks like the sort of trip I want to do. So happy you guys had a great time there.

  • Wow these passes have incredible scenery. I would love to do a road-trip and be able to see these in person. Such a dramatic landscape and your pictures of it are so beautiful.

  • I never thought of India having snow, not sure why. You’ve provided a great breakdown of the Ladakh land of high passes and everything you need to know about planning a road trip in the area. The landscape is stunning, surrounded by mountains, snow and very atmospheric in some spots with the fog. 🙂

  • Oh wow, the pictures and descriptions are awesome, this is not scenery I imagine when I think of India, it looks fabulous. Thanks for the detailed descriptions

  • What a great journey. Your photos are probably the only way I’ll get to visit this area because of the elevation. Ladakh looks so barren and treacherous. It would be cool to visit Zojla during winter when it’s covered in snow.

  • The raw baron images are stunning and depict in places the chilly conditions, stunning though. The quote of Ladakh about only friends or enemies would venture just says it all – amazing wild rugged beauty to it.

  • I had no idea that it was Ladakh which was known as the roof of the world – definitely a barren but incredibly beautiful land. Incredible to think that the army is stationed here in some of the highest passes in the world – they have their work cut out for them patrolling at those altitudes! Would be such an interesting trip to include these passes with Chang La and experience a diversity of landscapes, those barren and those covered in snow.

    The TagLang pass in particular looks like it would be one of the most incredible road trips in the world!

  • Ladakh has changed in terms of the number of visitors pouring in. When I visited this place maybe about 15 years ago, it was just the military or transport trucks which would get us (backpackers) across the Lahaul- Spiti. I would love to explore Ladakh and the surround areas again.
    A really nice post and the pictures depict the same.
    Cheers.

  • What a fabulous trip in a serene and remote landscape. The quote at the beginning is so apt for Ladakh. However, I’m sure it’s changed radically in recent years and it’s probably far busier now despite its remoteness.

  • First, Great Photography but the Instagram pictures didn’t load for some reason.
    this region looks crazy beautiful but in a kinda creepy way. the altitude, the weather, but I still think it is gorgeous and looks like scenes from movies!
    Thank you

  • You have some incredible pictures, they’re really enticing me to go haha. I love mountain ranges and spending time along passes like this. I lived in New Zealand and some of the views were just incredible. This post has really made me want to visit here now 😀

  • Thanks for writing about the road conditions, some of the roads I took in India and Nepal were pretty hairy so it’s good to know which are better and worse. The whole area looks gorgeous and it’s been on my list for a while now. Would you say that Fotu La was best for photography over all? : )

  • Now THIS is what you call a scenic road trip! Though the roads are a bit rugged, the views are spectacular. The towering mountains left me in awe just by looking at your photos. I can only imagine how majestic it was being there to experience the views in person!

  • Omg these views are amazing! I’ve never been to Asia but I absolutely love hiking and views. I would love to do a pjotoshoot here!

  • Wow! This is insanely beautiful. And it doesn’t look barren at all. Though I’m guessing with cold and gusty winds it’s not even in July pleasant to walk around any of this high passes for too long.

    Happy continued travels!
    C

  • been reading quite a lot of positive reviews about ladakh.. seems like a real good place to spend a retreat in… i can imagine myself lost to the beauty of the enormous plains.. the vastness of the view just makes me feel small and grounded

  • One of the best posts on Ladakh ever! You have summarised all the passes so well! I haven’t been to Ladakh but I am sure to refer to your blog post again and again while planning my own trip and those who ask me for suggestions! Thank you for sharing!

  • Love so many things about this post. Starting with the quote , the pics and the detailed writeup about the various passes. This post will be invaluable to anyone wanting to explore the region. Thanks for sharing!

  • I am speechless! I love this blog – you showed me how beautiful India is. My friends are planning to visit this place and I am so jealous after seeing your photos that this place is amazing!
    Winter all year round – that’s difficult!

  • I have to google to places to know where it is located and I was not surprise that it is in India. Oh Indian! I can’t wait to explore this country. Your photos are so awesome. The landscapes are changing. I’m so amaze!

  • OMG this post is amazing! I love adventures so much that I get crazy seeing those splendid scenery. Very nice pictures. I’m in love with the ROHTANG LA one! Must be on by to-go list. Thanks for sharing such beautiful pictures and useful information!!

  • I had no idea it was possible to visit Ladakh with a road trip!! This post is really well documented and is probably the best detailed ressource for those who want to try going for this trip. I am quite amazed that cars can go so high in the mountains… Thanks for opening this new opportunity in my head haha!

  • Wow. Stunning photographs you have here. I read a post about Ladakh from an another blogger and I was so amazed on the sights and landscapes it offers. Same as you, I was so thrilled to see the beautiful mountains from your photographs amid the danger of the path that you have to tackle. I will surely visit Ladakh in the future and see its beauty personally 🙂

  • I bet the going is slow in that area, but the views are amazing. There seems to be jagged razorback mountians everywhere. I wonder if travelers there suffer from altitude sickness?

  • Your photos are amazing, one really gets a sense of the desolation and natural beauty of these Ladakh landscapes, and the ones with people or human-made artifacts in them really have a wonderful sense of scale too. Wonderful vistas and had no idea there were so many passes here.

  • Ladakh! My beautiful Ladakh! The Crown Jewel of India!!! Twice I had to end up missing Ladakh trip… Its so miserable…. 🙁
    I really hope, all this delay and missed trip, finally account for one fabulous trip in future! Fingers crossed…
    Oh! I didn’t know La + Dakh means Many Passes! Aaj ka gyaan! Thank you!!

  • Frankly I didnt even know what Ladakh meant, let alone know about so many Las. Loved the list and all the information is really helpful! Of all these I have only been to Zojila from Sonmarg. Hopefully will get to visit them all soon 😀

  • My husband has been after me to head out to Ladakh. I have been hesitating because a lot of people say that it is dirty and very touristy. Your photographs are really beautiful. Maybe I should reconsider.

  • Gorgeous photos ! It reminds me my trek in the Mustang Kingdom (in Nepal) 🙂 I guess this amazingly beautiful country’s visit has been a life changing experience for you 🙂 The tranquillity of the area has a positive effect on anyone that is able to experience it. The people, the buildings, and the land are all symbols of serenity. In Mustang as well as in Ladakh, you can truly escape ! Trekking several hours a day on high altitude is not an easy feat for a regular individual. It is important that you are physically and mentally-prepared for this journey !

  • OMG! Ladakh looks great! Never knew that this part of India is so beautiful. I am traveling to India next month I hope to travel ladakh and experience the real nature! Thanks for sharing! Cheers!

  • You never fail to show me parts of the world that I was completely unaware of prior, and do an excellent job covering it! This place looks absolutely surreal. I’ve been to India, and I had no idea it was even possible to visit this area!

  • I always think about Ladakh as the final frontier. Beautiful landscapes and scenery that is truly magnificent. Lovely photos and although I still haven’t been able to make it up there, I hope I do soon.

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