Tag Archives: ZojiLa

Ladakh- The Land of High Passes

“Our Land is so barren and the passes so high, that only the best friends or the fiercest enemies come to visit us”


The above saying can be found everywhere on the internet about Ladakh the Land of High Passes; also known as the roof of the world but never knew the deep meaning behind it. In July 2017, while doing a 13-day long road trip to Leh Ladakh from Delhi; we saw the same quote at various places posted by BRO (Border Road Organisation) and now after visiting quite the part of Ladakh; crossing one valley to another we have understood the real meaning of each word.

Ladakh: The Land of High Passes

It is true that the whole land in Ladakh is barren; a cold desert lying at an altitude between 10,000 – 25000 feet, where temperature even dips to -50 degrees Celsius in winters. The army is on its foot front guarding Indian border from Pakistan and China, and the passes are not only India’s but worlds highest. Some of these passes or La, as known in Ladakh are the highest motorable and treacherous roads. So, in this post, we will be talking about why Leh Ladakh is known as Land of high passes. The word Ladakh itself is composed of two words La and Dakh, where La stands for “passes” and Dakh stands for “many” which together comes to  Land of High Passes. It’s not 5 or 6 passes but overall there are more than 20  passes. And if you are following our itinerary then will be crossing around 15 passes. So, let’s see the passes covered by AllGudThings.

The route to Leh Ladakh from Delhi

Delhi – Ludhiana – Jammu – Srinagar – Sonamarg – Kargil – Leh – Hunder- Pangong Tso – Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Keylong – Manali – Chandigarh – Delhi

Ladakh – The Land of High Passes

1. Zoji La

Altitude: 11,649 feet

Road: From Sonmarg to Zoji La, roads are serpentine and single Lane

Zoji La -Ladakh, the land of high passes

The first pass; Zoji La lies on Srinagar – Leh highway is 24 km ahead of Sonamarg and is the gateway to Ladakh. This highway is also known as NH1D and has high strategic importance, as it links Ladakh with the Kashmir Valley. Zoji La is quite daring and thrilling for nature lovers as the green valleys are taken over by barren cliffs and here the winter never seems to end. The tall walls of snow can still be seen in July- August too.

Snow Wall at ZojiLa- Ladakh,the land of high passes

Just meters ahead form pass, there is a Zero-point where no natural habitation exists. Here, the snow lovers can enjoy snow sports like sledding, snow bikes and trek to the barren mountain.

Zero Point at Zoji La - Ladakh, the land of high passes
Zero Point Near ZojiLa (Ladakh – The Land of High Passes)

Also, enjoy some Maggi with tea/coffee at shacks. It is really windy at the pass; so wear some woolen or windcheater, to protect yourselves.

Note: Zojila receives on an average, 60 feet of snowfall and it opens only in April end or May.

2. Namika La (Pillar of The Sky Pass)

Altitude: 12,198 feet

Roads: Well constructed road, continuous ascent, and descent; lie 16 km ahead of Mulbekh.

The Namika La is one of the two passes between Kargil (Also Read- Kargil War Memorial) and Leh in the Zanskar mountain range. The mountain at the pass has a pillar-like object rising to the sky. The mountains around are arid and offer a 180-degree view of the valley. The Tibetan prayer flags around the summit flutter at its best.

Namika La - Ladakh, the land of high passes

3. Fotu La / Fatu La

Altitude: 13,149 feet

Roads: Well constructed road with a thick layer of tarmac, continuous ascent and descent with hairpin bends, lies 36 km ahead of Namika La and 14km from Lamayuru.

Fotu La is considered as one of the highest points on Srinagar – Leh highway. From here one gets the perfect view of rugged, brown, stacked mountains. Ahead the road descends to beautiful Lamayuru town. Personally, we feel the views from this pass are photographers and videographers’ delight.

Fotu La; Ladakh - The Land of High Passes
Fotu La in Ladakh – The Land of High Passes

On the pass is also located the relay station of Prasar Bharati television that serves Lamayuru village.

Relay Station of Prasar Bharati Television at Fotu La: Ladakh, the land of high passes
Relay Station of Prasar Bharati Television at Fotu La

4. Khardung La/ Khardongla (Pass of Lower Castle)

Altitude: Claimed to be at 18,380 feet, but actual height is 17,700 feet

Roads: Lies 39 km from Leh; roads are paved from Leh till South Pullu i.e almost till 24 km; After that rock and dirt road with snow melting streams in between North Pullu to South Pullu. Overall the roads are continuous winding ones.

Time Taken: 2.5 – 3 Hrs

Khardongla lies in the Ladakh range and is a gateway to Nubra and Shyok valleys. The pass was built in 1976 and opened to the public only in 1988. The pass is strategically important as it is used to carry supplies to the Siachen Glacier. Khardongla offers breathtaking views, is covered with snow all around and thousands of Tibetan prayer flags decorate the place.

KhardungLa; Ladakh- The land of High Passes
KhardungLa in Ladakh- The land of High Passes

For visiting this pass, Indian as well as International tourists both need a Leh Ladakh Inner Line and Protected Area Permit.


  • You will find hundreds of bikers, cyclists, and four-wheelers at the pass, so this La is highly packed.
  • The roads are quite narrow & slippery because of the melting snow.
  • At this high altitude one is likely to suffer from AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), so rush back towards lower altitude as the symptoms appear. Take help if it is severe.
  • The best time to visit is between May – September, however, the pass remains open throughout.


5. Chang La (Pass towards South)

Altitude: Lies at 17,590 feet

Roads: Steep climb, well-constructed road but almost 15 km before and after the Chang La pass, the road is of loose dirt and slush. Small streams too appear across the road.

The Chang La lies on the way to Pangong Lake via Leh and is covered with snow throughout the year.  It is the main gateway to the Changthang plateau located in the Himalayas. The views from the pass are mesmerizing, scenic and adventurous along with breathlessness and extreme chill. If one is lucky enough, one can get to witness snowfall happening.

ChangLa: Ladakh, The Land of High Passes

Both Indians, as well as international tourists, require Leh Ladakh inner line permit and protected area permit respectively for visiting Chang La and Pangong Tso too.

Road to Pangong Tso via Chang La: Ladakh; the land of high passes
Ascent to Chang La

There is a myth that Chang pass is named after Saint Chang La but the myth is banished by army personnel.


  • It’s quite windy and chilly at Chang La, so wear woolens and cover your head and feet too.
  • Don’t stay there for more than 20 -25 minutes, to avoid AMS.
  • Check the weather conditions from locals before leaving for this route.
  • The roads are slippery and steep, be really slow and careful.
  • The best time to visit is from May – October.
  • Enjoy hot tea served by the Indian army
  • Carry extra fuel from Leh

6. Rezang La

Altitude: Lies at 16,000 feet

Road: Completely dirt and gravel road, except for a few places there is a tarmac road.

Rezang La lies in the Chushul Valley, 46 km from Spangmik on the way to Tso Moriri. The landscapes on the way are beautiful, scenic and at times, one might be the only lone wanderers. Local advised us to follow the electricity wires, to avoid getting lost. The place is known for Rezang La Memorial; which is built as a tribute to the martyrs of Sino – Indian War, 1962.

Rezang La Memorial: Ladakh, the land of high passes
Rezang La Memorialin Ladakh; The Land of High Passes

Domestic tourists need an Inner Line Permit to travel along this way whereas International tourist needs special protected area permit.

Note:  Rezang La lies at a really high altitude, so just stop for a short span of 20-25 minutes.

7. Chagga La/Tsaka La

Altitude: Lies at 15,242 feet

Road: Gravel, dirt and rocky road, Continuous steep road.

Tsaka La Road: Ladakh, the land of high passes
Tsaka La Road in Ladakh; The Land of High Passes

The Tsaka La lies on the way to Tso Moriri from Pangong Tso. The area around Tsaka La is almost barren and the roads are only accessible during summer months. It is advised to take this route only if you are confident enough to drive on steep mountain roads. The drive becomes tougher if roads are wet.

8. Namashang La

Altitude: 15800 feet

Road: Mostly gravel & Dirt road; steep too. One needs to be really attentive and careful here to be on the track.

The Namashang La lies between Mahe & Kyagar Tso on the way to Tso Moriri. Roads are only accessible during summers. And just like Rezang La and Chagga La, Indian tourists need Inner line permit and foreign tourists need Protected Area Permit.

9. Polo Kongka La

Altitude: 15800 feet

Road: Dirt road, not very steep, but maximum you can drive is at a speed of 20 -30 lm/hr.

Polo Kongka La lies on the way from Tso Moriri to Tso Kar near Pulga. On the way, there are many sulfur springs also known as Pulga Hot water spring.

Polo KongKa La; Ladakh: The Land of high Passes
Polo KongKa La; Ladakh: The Land of High Passes

Note: Do check the condition of roads before leaving for Tso Kar from Tso Moriri.

10. TagLang La

Altitude: Lies at 17,582 feet

Road: The roads are well paved while ascent from Moore plains and during descent towards Upshi.

Road to Taglang La, Ladakh: The Land of High Passes
Road to Taglang La, Ladakh: The Land of High Passes

The TagLang pass lies between Leh and Pang and is considered to be the highest pass among all the passes on Manali – Leh Highway. The pass is well made, paved and there is a shack on the top too. Luckily or unluckily, at Taglang La; we experienced rain, snow and chilled wind with almost zero visibility. The mountains around are snow-laden and the valleys are electrifying. The pass summit is overall laden with Tibetan prayer flags.

Taglang La, Ladakh: The land of high passes

The pass is impassable during winters. During snow melting and rains, roads become too slippery. There is a small temple on the Taglang La.


  • The temperature and oxygen supply at the pass is relatively low. So, there are high chances of AMS.
  • Stay maximum at Taglang La for 20- 25 minutes.

11. Lachung La / Lungalacha La

Altitude: 16,616 feet

Road: Steep paved road at a pass, in between patches of dirt and gravel roads, bumpy because of a lot of potholes.

The Lachung La lies on Manali – Leh highway and is 22 km from Pang. The pass is completely deserted and the cold winds blow at a very high speed. The vast landscapes, brown humped mountains, and valleys around it are known for its exquisite beauty.

Lachung La: Ladakh, The Land of High Passes

Note: The pass gains sudden height from 15000 feet and the cold here increases tremendously. If one is not acclimatized well, he/she will surely face the symptoms of AMS.

Views from Lachung La: Ladakh, The Land of High Passes
Views from Lachung La: Ladakh, The Land of High Passes

12. Nakee La

Altitude: Lies at 15,647 feet

Roads:  Well construct red asphalt steep road passes between the rocky gorge.

The Nakee La pass too lies between Pang and Sarchu; just 19 km ahead to the LachungLa. The Indus river flows along in the valley, leaving green patches on the arid mountain slopes. As you descend from the pass, one crosses 21 hair loops known as the famous Gata Loop. There is an interesting story related to the loop which you can read on our blog.

NakeeLa: Ladakh; The Land of High Passes

Just like other passes, here too, it is quite windy. The weather here is really unpredictable; in seconds it changes from the sunshine to rain and snow.

NoteRoads get slippery after rain and snow, so be really careful.

13. Baralacha La

Altitude: 16,040 feet

Road: Well constructed, steep, paved road with multiple water streams flowing in between and some of these are really wild. On one side there are huge mountains, while on another deep valley; so be careful while driving.

The Baralacha La lies between Sarchu and Jispa, 59 km from Sarchu in Himachal Pradesh, India. The pass summit has crossroads from Ladakh, Lahaul Spiti, Zanskar and was earlier a famous trade road. It is also a base for many treks. We encountered lightning and rain at Baralacha pass. Roads and the whole valley turned foggy but still, it was really serene. We guess the pass will be much prettier in clear weather.

Baralacha La: Ladakh, The Land of high Passes

Just 3 km ahead of the pass, we saw a pentagon-shaped, turquoise blue pond, known as Suraj Taal, which is the source of river Bhaga.


The BaraLacha La closes down in winters due to heavy snowfall and one doesn’t need any permit to cross it while coming back to Manali from Leh.


  • There are multiple streams passing on the road. Cross only if it’s not extreme, as it can be dangerous.
  • Be careful with the falling rocks and landslides.
  • April to October is the best time to travel this pass.

14. Rohtang La / Rohtam Pass (Pass of Corpuses)

Altitude: 13,054 feet

Road: The road is really rough and in dreadful condition. There are patches of gravel and then completely muddy and slushy roads. There are a lot of potholes and one mostly faces traffic jams while ascending and descending the pass.

The Rohtang La is on the Manali – Leh highway in Himachal. It lies 53 km from Manali; connects Kullu Valley with Lahaul -Spiti and is a gateway to Keylong from Manali. It is considered to be one of the most dangerous passes. Every year the pass faces many landslides, gets completely embedded in snow and the road cleaners use GPS services to dig it back. There are always chances of getting stuck in between while crossing the Rohtang pass. Sometimes the jam gets cleared only after 10 -12 hrs.

Stupa at Rohtang La : Ladakh, The Land of high Passes
Stupa at Rohtang La

The pass is highly scenic, offers views of glaciers, peaks, lush green valleys, and Chandra River. Indeed it is one of our favorite passes too. While we crossed it, the whole pass was under and in between the clouds. There was hardly any visibility; the cold breeze was caressing our face but the fear of 13 days Leh Ladakh trip getting over had started biting us.


Just 6 Km ahead of the pass submit lays a Rani Nallah, which is huge and ferocious and can be dangerous too.


  • The Rohtang Pass opens only for a short window between May end or June till November. If the snowfall happens earlier than November then it also closes early.
  • One needs a Rohtang pass Permit; for visiting it from Manali.
  • Drive really slowly and be very cautious while crossing the pass.
  • Every Tuesday, the pass remains closed because of the repair work carried out by BRO.
Rani Nallah at Rohtang La: Ladakh, The Land of high Passes
Rani Nallah at Rohtang La

Apart from this, there is one unknown pass around Chushul, and people have named it as Chushul Pass or Chushul La.

We encountered all colors of nature while being on this path. Crossing 15 passes in 13 days has actually made us believe that name Ladakh is perfect. It stands true to its words and is actually the mesmerizing Land of high passes. In case, you think we had missed out listing anyone here, do let us know. We will try to include it, as will cover the missed out La’s in our next post of Ladakh – The Land of high passes.

Other related articles from the Leh Ladakh series:

6 must-visit Leh Ladakh Palaces before they disappear

A walk with Indian soldier at Kargil War Memorial

Nubra Valley: The Valley of Flowers in Ladakh

A day at White Lake Tso Kar in Ladakh

Attractions on the Srinagar Leh Highway

All you need to know about Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit

Leh Ladakh Road trip from Delhi – 13 days itinerary

A walk with an Indian Soldier at the Kargil War Memorial

We crossed the ZojiLa at 11,575 feet; and headed towards Leh crossing Drass & Kargil. We saw the landscapes of Kashmir and Ladakh changing from green to golden sand and then back to green. Kargil and Drass remind us of the war our Indian soldiers fought to save our motherland and after days how they got the victory. During the war, the Indian hills were captured by Pakistan army at Drass and Kargil, taking a U-turn on the peace agreement, and were further in plans to extend their arms towards the territory of Ladakh. Our soldiers of the Indian army fought continuously in the treacherous terrain for 60 days and many of them sacrificed their lives to sway the Indian flag back there. So, crossing the valley without paying a tribute to these national heroes at Kargil War Memorial, Drass will be a real injustice.

Road to Kargil - Kargil War Memorial
Road to Kargil

It was around 1:00 pm; a warm day than usual, we were talking, and driving towards Kargil from Drass city thinking to spot the Tiger Hill, Tololing, and the Kargil War Memorial on the way. Just 5 Km ahead from the city, pink walls surrounding the building appeared and it was the Kargil War Memorial.

Kargil War Memorial Entrance

We stepped out of the car and entered our details in the register. A tall, well build, dark-complexioned, sun-kissed, perfectly suited Indian army soldier grinned and welcomed us at the Kargil War memorial gate. We walked with him through the pathway (Vijaypath) laden with tri colors to another tall fluttering Indian flag with the Tololing hill as a backdrop.

Vijaypath at Drass War Memorial /Kargil War Memorial
Vijaypath at Kargil War Memorial

The loud echoing voice in pride started explaining to us that O P here is Operation Vijay and its rear wall has the names of Martyrs inscribed in gold. While listening to the whole bloodshed story of operation Vijay we realized that our smiles were already taken over by solemn. We were already sunken and eyes were struck, thinking how our brave Indian soldiers might have climbed this rugged scalloped Totoling Mountain, and the majestic Tiger Peak with artillery on their back during the Kargil War.

Amar Jawan Jyoti at Kargil War Memorial
Amar Jawan Jyoti

In the meanwhile, he broke our silence at Kargil War Memorial and directed us towards the Amar Jawan Jyoti, the eternal lit flame as an homage to the soldiers who lost their lives in the Kargil war. There were some interesting lines in Hindi written on the plinth which he continued explaining. In simple words it meant – A flower says that it doesn’t want to be a part of women’s jewelry or wants to impress anyone, rather throw it on the path where young men have laid their lives for this country (India).

Veer Bhumi at Kargil War Memorial
Veer Bhumi

Veer Bhumi houses the memorial stones of martyrs with their names and rankings. From here we moved to the Manoj Pandey gallery at Kargil War Memorial; also known as the Hall of Remembrance which houses the pictures of martyrs and the used artillery during Kargil War. At the entrance, it had a Shradanjali Kalash gifted by an NGO in the memory of soldiers who lost their lives during the Operation Vijay.

Manoj Pandey Gallery at Kargil War Memorial

On the other side, he showed us the Vijayant Helipad, named after the captain Vijayant Thapar who lost his life during the Kargil war.

Pakistan Sentry post at Kargil War Memorial

And the captured sentry post and the living bunker of Pakistan during Kargil War. The bunker looked quite small from outside but it was quite spacious inside and 3 persons can easily stay in it.

That was all about the Kargil War Memorial. We thanked him and other soldiers for saving us always and took leave without talking a word to each other to continue our Leh Ladakh road trip. Physically we ended the tour here but so much was going inside our heart and brain especially after seeing this heavy message at the exit

“When you go home, tell them of us; and say for your tomorrow, we gave our today”

It was quite an amazing hour where we could actually see the life of Indian soldier but we wanted to understand and talk to another soldier to know more. So, we thought to visit another war memorial, helipad and heritage hut at Kargil, on the way to our Leh Ladakh road trip from Delhi.


The Heritage Hut at Kargil – Kargil War Memorial

After showing ID cards and making an entry in register he started walking with us. Suddenly, he pointed towards the tall peaks in front, asking us to make out which one is India and Pakistan. We looked at each other, then at him and started questioning, what – are we that close, is someone really watching us from there, have you ever been up there, and so much more like these.

Ques: Can we really see Pakistan from here?

Ans: Yes! That is the peak captured by us and the left one you see there is PoK (Pakistan).

Ques: Is someone always guiding those peaks?

Ans: Yes! Be it winters or summers, someone is always there. If they took the charge of the peak which is at Kargil backdrop, they can target the whole area easily.

Ques: How long have you been here and how is life here?

Ans: It is just 2 years. Life is really tough but I always wanted to be in the army and the dream has come true. We are living for our nation. India is my mother and I will fight for it. (There was a deep passion and pride when he was speaking these words and my gaze was fixed on his expressions).

Ques: Have you ever been on that peak?

Ans: Yes! I was there in the winters for 6 months. I just came back at the base this week as I have to go for a holiday to my village.

Ques: In winters, the whole peak might be covered with snow, so how you manage to survive?

Ans: There is 10- 12 feet of snow. We stay in bunkers and at times our bunker doors get completely hidden under snow. The soldier on duty outside makes sure that it doesn’t get sunken under snow. (He actually showed us his and bunkers video at the top in winters)

Ques: Are Bunkers comfortable and how do you manage your food?

Ans: Bunkers from inside are really cozy and we have enough stocks for the next six months.

Ques: From where do you get access to water in winters?

Ans: We collect and melt the snow to drink it and it really takes hours to get melted.

Ques: Is there any provision for electricity there?

Ans: No, we cook and do our other activities during day time only. We have solar panels for emergency light and recharging our phones. In winters there is no sunlight for days, so we are totally cut off from everyone.

Ques: What do you do while being there at the peak?

Ans: We have six hours of shift duty and we continuously monitor the activities and movement of the enemy.

Ques: How far is Pakistan’s bunker from India’s?

Ans: It is hardly any distance. We talk to each other shouting and quoting “Bhai” (brother) and sometimes even ask what did you had for lunch.

Ques: Are you afraid that anything can happen at any time and you can lose your life?

Ans: Not only we; but our families are also prepared. We are living for our country. If anything happens we will not die but will get SHAHEED (martyr).

Ques: Do you miss your family?

Ans: Yes! A lot but we don’t mention anything to them. Otherwise, they will cry and will be in pain.

Ques: Do you celebrate festivals?

Ans: When we are at peak, we don’t have any idea about the days, months and dates. But if we have a phone connection, then we get to know.

Ques: Is there any risk at the Kargil base?

Ans: Yes! This is a complete war zone, anything can happen anytime. We have to be always prepared.

Ques: How do you carry your luggage and weapons to the peak?

Ans: We carry them with ourselves while trekking and our guns are really heavy. It almost takes us a day to reach this peak. (He was pointing towards the peak at his back as that was his daily routine to trek the peak)

Ques: Will you be going back to the peak top again after coming back from holiday?

Ans: Yes I will! but our chiefs only take the final decision.

The questioning didn’t end here but he took us to the heritage hut to show the pictures of real heroes who sacrificed their lives for the nation and the artillery used during that time. The heritage hut too had pictures of tribes and samples of the traditional stuff of Ladakh. From here, we moved to pay homage at the memorial and see helipad.

The Heritage Hut at Kargil- Kargil War Memorial
The Heritage Hut & Captured Bunker of Pakistan

The heritage hut too had pictures of tribes and samples of the traditional stuff of Ladakh. From here, we moved to pay homage at the memorial and see helipad.

The Memorial at Kargil - Kargil War Memorial

That was all we learned about the Indian army soldiers and operation from the two brave gentlemen but since that day our heart and brain are on the run. We can feel the big heart those mothers and wives have those who send their children and husbands on the border.

In the end, it was just a memorable day. We can just say heartfelt thanks; to our brave Indian soldiers, who fight all the odds and hardships to secure us day in and out and even gave up their lives to save us and our country. And it is just because of them today we got the chance to do Leh Ladakh road trip, peacefully.

A walk with Indian soldier at Kargil War Memorial

Note: Every year on 26th July, Kargil Vijay Diwas or Kargil Diwas is celebrated as on this day conflict officially came to an end and Indian army announced complete eviction of Pakistani intruders.

A big salute to our Indian Army!!

You can also check the complete itinerary for Leh Ladakh road trip and other series of the valley.

Nubra Valley: The Valley of Flowers in Ladakh

A day at White Lake Tso Kar in Ladakh

Attractions on the Srinagar Leh Highway

Ladakh-The land of High Passes

All you need to know about Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit

6 must visit Leh Ladakh Palaces before they disappear

Leh Ladakh Road trip from Delhi – 13 days itinerary

Story of Gata Loops

Dos and Donts for Ladakh Road Trip

Hemis Monastery: Biggest & Wealthiest Gompa in Ladakh

Sonamarg, Kashmir – The Golden Meadows of India

Bhuttico Kullu Shawls & Accessories – The Gift of Valley

Leh Palace

10 reasons why everyone should travel India

The colored Tibetan Prayer Stones – Mani Stones