Yearly Archives: 2019

Himachal, India, Tourism, Travel

Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar in winters- Road Trip to remember

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“Mai ni meriye, Shimle Di Raahe, Chamba Kitni door”

“O Shimle ni vasna, Kasauli ni vasna, Chambe jaana zarur”

Oh Mother! How far is Chamba from Shimla Side,
I don’t want to settle in Shimla or Kasauli,
Have to go to Chamba only!

Have you heard this Himachali folk song? The first time, we heard it, we were absolutely in awe of it and since then; had made up our mind to visit Chamba. On little research, we further found that a trip to Chamba can be clubbed with Dalhousie and Khajjiar. So, on my birthday it was the perfect time to make a winter trip to Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar.

Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar in winters

Dalhousie, a colonial hill station in Northern Himachal Pradesh lies at an altitude 6500 feet above sea level and is a famous tourist spot whereas Chamba lies on the banks of River Ravi at 3300 feet and is an ignored tourist destination. With the similar notions in our head, even we left with a thought of first visiting Dalhousie, then Khajjiar and Chamba. But at times things don’t work according to your plans and you have to choose the paths directed by nature and that is what happened with us.

Winter Trip to Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

How to Reach Dalhousie & Khajjiar?

Dalhousie lies 560 Kilometers from Delhi and 313 Kilometers from Chandigarh. Further, Khajjiar lies 22 km from Dalhousie via Dalhousie Chamba road and 23 km from Chamba. From Delhi we took a halt at Chandigarh and started the next day early at 9:00 am to reach Dalhousie on time.

Route from Delhi  Delhi – Panipat- Karnal – kurukshetra – Ambala – Rajpura- Sirhind- Ludhiana – Phagwara – Dasuya- Pathankot – Dalhuoise – Khajjiar

Route from Chandigarh – Chandigarh – Roopnagar – Garshankar – Dasuya –Pathankot – Dalhousie – Khajjiar

We reached Dalhousie around 4 pm. Roads were covered with slush and had walls of snow on sides whereas some trails were completely laid in white. Trees had specks of snow on them and few cars were covered by 2-3 feet of snow. It clearly seemed the area had received an adequate amount of snowfall this year. We went straight to our hotel JK Clarks Exotica, Dalhousie and after relaxing, left for a quick stroll. It was freaking cold, Sun was playing hide and seek behind the clouds. And as it started getting dark, the wind speed and chilliness increased. In minutes, the rain too joined the drama, and people started running to find the shelter wherever it was possible. We too joined the league and without much delay rushed back to our hotel. The whole night it continued raining and the temperature had fallen drastically (Probably -5 or even lesser than that).

Dalhousie in winters - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar in winters

The next morning, the sky was clear but had some hovering clouds. And within an hour, the weather took a drastic turn from sunny to cloudy. It started raining and locals predicted snowing in Khajjiar. Hearing this, we immediately packed and left for Khajjiar, which lies 23 kilometers ahead. But as soon we reached near Gandhi Chownk Market in Dalhousie, there was a big Que of vehicles apart snow and slush. Traffic was halted and was not allowed ahead to Khajjiar because of the roadblock due to snow. On further inquiry, we learned that it will probably take months or more to open this route.

Jk Clarks Exotica - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

Also Read: Chanshal Pass- The road less traveled in Himachal Pradesh

We started looking for another route option in GPS and the only way was to go Khajjiar from Dalhousie was via Chamba. It too looked completely luck dependent, as the Chamba to Khajjiar road was also closed due to snow till yesterday.

Bit disappointed, we took a U-turn to Banikhet (6 Kilometers from Dalhousie) to refuel our car, and there we saw a diversion for Chamba, stating 44 kilometers ahead.

Note: There is no fuel station in Dalhousie. The last one is available only at Banikhet

Also Read: Walk to the Nako Village in Himachal Pradesh

Dalhuoise to Chamba

From Banikhet itself, we took the Dalhousie Chamba road. Landscapes changed immediately. Roads got wider as compared to the Dalhousie road, and we were driving at lesser altitude. There was greenery all around and the towns on the way looked thickly populated.

On the way to Chamba - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
On the way to Chamba – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

On the way, comes the turquoise green color Chamera Lake. It looks grand and was perfectly gelling with the surrounding. Indeed, with the backdrop of Himalayas, it made the perfect picture.

Chamera Lake - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar winter road trip
Chamera Lake – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar winter road trip

The weather was worsening, so we thought of booking the room at earliest before we don’t get a place to hide. The majority of the hotels were not operating. It looked people had gone to the hibernation zone and they will only come out once the sun warms up the place and summers come back.

Also Read: 5 Winter destinations to see snowfall in Himachal

First look of Chamba - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar Roadtrip.
First look of Chamba – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar Road trip

Somehow Goibibo came into help and we got a place to stay at Anantson resort in Chamba. Reaching the resort was another task, but once we reached and saw the views from the cottage, our whole day pain vanished away.

Our Cottage at Anantson Resort, Chamba - Dalhouise Chamba Khajjiar
Our Cottage at Anantson Resort, Chamba

Rains had washed away the dust, everything looked crystal clear and now we knew why the above Himachali Song quotes “Chamba Jana Zarur” (Must visit Chamba).

The town looked heavenly on the banks of River Ravi. There were shades of green everywhere, clouds were floating among the Himalayas and extreme winters looked like monsoons. The ancient town still looked unadulterated although modernity has begun to sneak into the lives of town people.

View of River Ravi and Chamba from our Balcony- Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
View of River Ravi and Chamba from our Balcony

The beautiful Chambalis were happy to greet and meet us. We inquired about the Chamba – Khajjiar road from the manager and were happy to know that road had just been opened yesterday. For us the perfect day was still ahead; so, we spent rest day gazing and clicking the landscapes from various angles.

At Anantson Resort - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
At Anantson Resort

Chamba to Khajjiar

The next day, after a good scrumptious local Chamba breakfast (Aloo cooked in Dahi and Puri), we left for the trip to a winter wonderland – Khajjiar, also known as Switzerland of India. It lies only 22 kilometers form Chamba. But just a kilometer ahead from the resort, there was a big landslide. Disappointment started building up again in our mind, but our heart was fighting back with positive thoughts. After an hour the road got cleared and we took a turn to Khajjiar.

Route for Chamba to Khajjiar

The single-lane road looked narrow, steep. We had to climb another 3300 feet in 22 Kms. Landscapes looked breathtaking. The great Himalayas in between were decorated with patches of terrace gardens, colorful houses and had adorned a beautiful white crown. Clouds were floating along with the scalps and it looked like rain on the mountain tops. We inquired from another crossing car about the way and were super delighted to hear Yes!

On the way to Khajjiar - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
On the way to Khajjiar – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

Also Read: Hike to Kheerganga

From there we took a deep ascent and the specks of snow increased to mounds and trails. The Dauladhar range of Himalayas started resembling black forest cake and there came the board of view of ManiMahesh Kailash Peak, also known as Chamba Kailash (One of the five abodes of Lord Shiva according to Hindu mythology). It was engulfed by the clouds while going but we got a crystal view while returning back.

Manimahesh view point on the way to Khajjiar- - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
Manimahesh view point on the way to Khajjiar

We reached the entrance of the Kalatop – Khajjiar reserve. It was snowing inside and was dark. Roads were completely covered in white except the tire marks. There were no vehicles and people. The whole scene looked scary for driving but Tashi wanted to drive. 5 Kilometers distance felt like 50 kilometers here, as we were driving at speed of 10. The car was slipping, and there was no parapet. Literally my heart was pounding and in the next few minutes’ taxi crossed us giving assurance to go ahead. We followed them, kept moving, and there we saw the first view of meadows.

Entrance to Kalatop Khajjiar Reserve - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
Entrance to Kalatop Khajjiar Reserve – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

Note: Khajjiar is a part of Kalatop – Khajjiar wildlife sanctuary

OMG! Is this for real? It was a dreamy winter wonderland, with Dhauladhars on one side and pine forests on other. The road was not visible except the Tyre marks. Clouds were floating in the snowy meadows. There was silence all around, and looked shops, restaurants all were closed due to bad weather.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BuOTkxTnBVt/
Turning to Khajjiar meadows

Without stoppage, we directly moved to HPTDC (Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation) Hotel Devdar Khajjiar. What a perfect location they have? The resort directly opens to meadows and our balcony room had a Khajjiar Lake view. It was still snowing and raining, looked 2 feet snow will soon turn to 3 feet.

Outside Hotel Devdar, Khajjiar - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
Outside Hotel Devdar, Khajjiar – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

Hotel Devdar, Khajjiar

We left our vehicle in between the road and climbed the stairs to check whether the hotel is operational or not. The manager came out and our fear came true. There was No water, No electricity from the past 7 days and it was too cold. Met Department had forecasted overnight snow and the roads might get closed for several days. Hotel Manager narrated this and asked us to stroll and play in the snow for an hour and go back to their Chamba guest house in the evening.

View of Khajjiar Meadows form Hotel Devdar - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

But “we were we”. We reversed the talks by saying that, we don’t need electricity, we just need a bucket of hot water and give us the same food you will cook for yourself. We will be more than happy. He got convinced and allowed us to stay.

Also Read: Must know Challenges before taking a winter Spiti Trip

Honestly, it was one of the best decisions we took. If one moment the snow meadows were covered with moving clouds, another moment we could see the saucer-shaped Khajjair lake in between the Devdar forest with a backdrop of white Himalayas.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BuJMM3AHAfO/
Stairs leading to Khajjiar Meadows

Note: Other good locations to stay are Forest and PWD Guest House, but you need to have a prior booking with them.

Khajjiar Meadows

After having tea at hotel, we left for a quick walk. It was serene and magical beyond words. White powder was all we could see around. There we saw leading stairs to reach the Khajjiar meadows and we took them at once.

Our feet were sinking in the snow and looked only a few tourists had set their foot on it. Lake was completely frozen from one end and the other side looked semi-frozen. We wanted to walk along the circular meadow and visit the Khajjinag temple but it didn’t look like a perfect time. So, we retired back to our hotel early.

At Khajjiar Meadows - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar Roadtrip
At Khajjiar Meadows – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar Road Trip

At night, the moon was playing hide and seek with clouds and the snow in the meadows was glowing like a silver sheath. We wanted to take some good night shots but gave up in the freaking cold and started waiting for the next morning.

Also Read: Our love for Old Manali over New Manali

The next morning was a promising sunny morning. We got ready as active birds to roam in the circular meadows. The entire Dhauladhar range was clearly visible and it was painted in the shades of white and green.

Khajjiar Meadows in winter- Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar.

The Khajjiar meadows which looked all-white yesterday, now looked entirely different, colors were jutting out from white. Locals were out in the sun to bask their bodies whereas adventure organizers were hunting tourists for paragliding, tube Skiing, river crossing, snow skating, etc but all we wanted to do was see, feel, and click every inch of the circular meadows.

Khajjiar Meadows - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

Khajjinag Temple, Khajjiar

In between the Khajjiar meadows stood an ancient, golden dome Khajjinag Temple, dedicated to Naga- the lord of serpents. The temple is also known as Golden Devi Temple. It was built by King of Chamba in 12th century and was renovated in 16th century. The temple has a lot of wooden work, which looks a perfect blend of Mughal and Indian architecture. The Temple is believed to have a mythological significance too. The circumambulatory path of the temple has the images of Pandavas defeating the Kauravas in the epic battle of Mahabharata.

Also Read: Tabo – National Historic Treasure of India

From the temple keep moving toward the Khajjair lake. There were water streams in between and spongy earth around the banks of the lake, due to the dense growth of weed called vacha.

Boat in the frozen Khajjiar Lake- Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
Boat in the frozen Khajjiar Lake

From there walk towards the fairytale HPTDC cottage, smushed between green and white. We couldn’t stay here this time, but for sure during the next visit.

HPTDC cottage in Khajjiar Meadows- Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar Road Trip
HPTDC cottage in Khajjiar Meadows

After the complete round, it was time to head back to the civilization but our heart and mind were not ready to leave. We were still looking back at the mesmerizing scenery at each step. Khajjiar is a perfect combination of lakes, meadows, and mountains which resembles a fairyland of the stories.

Also Read: Padam Palace – The royal Palace in Rampur Bushahr

Why Khajjiar is known as Mini Switzerland?

Khajjiar is among the 160 locations in the world that bear topographical resemblance to Switzerland. On 7 July 1992, Mr. Willy T. Blazer, the Vice Counselor and Head of Chancery of Switzerland in India brought it on the world tourism map by calling it “Mini Switzerland”. He also installed a signboard showing Khajjiar’s distance from the Swiss capital Berne -6194 km.

Khajjiar Meadows - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar Road Trip
Khajjiar Meadows – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar Road Trip

The counselor also took a stone from Khajjiar, which will form part of a stone collage around the Swiss Parliament to remind the visitors of Khajjiar as a Mini Switzerland of India.

Also Read: View of Chau Chau Kang Nilda from Langza

Points to Remember for Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar winter trip

  • Snow looks very fascinating but driving on it is really tough and risky. Don’t try to be a stunt man and drive as slow and cautiously as possible
  • There are high chances of vehicle slipping on applying brakes, so be really careful
  • Try driving 4* 4 and if you don’t have one, use snow chains to increase the traction
  • Do cover your bonnet at night to avoid freezing of fuel
  • Don’t drive in extreme snowfall as you can get struck too. Listen to the local’s instructions
  • Walk very carefully in the snow; as a severe fall can lead to fractures too
  • Fuel station is available at Chamba and Banikhet
  • Be prepared for NO electricity and No water at Kahjjiar in winters
  • There are plenty of ATM in Dalhousie as well Chamba

Also Read: Shimla After Snowfall

Must carry

  • Do carry multiple layers of clothes from warmers to fleece to feather jackets, wind cheaters, cap and gloves
  • Also keep rain coat, umbrella, sun glasses
  • Snow and water proof boots are must. If you don’t have one, you can get them on rent at Khajjiar meadows

Also Read: Spiti Valley in winters

Other Nearby Attractions

  • Kalatop Sanctuary
  • Chamera Dam
  • Dainkund Trek

Best Season to visit Dalhousie Khajjiar & Temperature

Dalhousie Khajjiar can be visited throughout the year. Summers lasts from March – July (temperature lies between 32 – 44 degrees Celsius), Monsoon is in July – August (Temperature 22 – 35 degrees Celsius) and winters step from November till February (Temperature 7 to -4 degree Celsius).

For snow lovers, the best time is January- February, and remember it is an off-season too.

Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar in winters

You can find more pictures of Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar winter trip on our Facebook and Instagram accounts or find us by using #allgudthings.

Himachal, India, Tourism, Travel

Must know Challenges before taking a Spiti winter Trip

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Sometimes, you hear a place and mark it to your wish list. That is how our Spiti saga started in 2013. And we never knew a single visit there will make the place become our second home. Yes, we are absolutely in love with Valley and now want to see it in in every color, in every season. We have traveled to Spiti Valley multiple times in summers and the wish list was to do a Spiti winter trip now.

There is a common thought among people that travelling to Spiti Valley in winters is not possible – as the roads get snow covered and becomes inaccessible, temperature falls extremely low and survival gets tough. But the question was then how do locals survive. We wanted to see the challenges they face during winters and how they tackle them. So, we took a self-drive road trip to Spiti valley in winters (i.e. in January).

Before leaving from Delhi, we checked the MET department forecast, rain and snow both were predicted in the upper hills. There were high chances of getting struck but our spirits were much higher than the thought of getting struck.

Route for Spiti Valley in winters

There are two routes to enter Spiti – one from Shimla and other from Manali. In winters i.e. by October end, Rohtang La and Kunzum La both get covered with heavy snow, so one cannot enter through Manali and complete circuit via exit from Shimla. So the only viable option is to enter and exit through Shimla.

Our route – Delhi – Shimla – Rampur – Rekong Peo – Tabo – Kaza

Beyond Kaza, towards Kunzum La and Chandratal roads gets closed. So, the farthest one can reach is Kaza and the villages around it i.e Kibber, Komic, Langza, Hikkim, Tashigong.

What to expect while doing winter Spiti Trip

By October end or November first week the valley start receiving snow and the temperature dips down to negative around -10 degree Celsius. Public transport service decreases and the only moving vehicles you get to see are of local Spitians, local taxis and of government officials.

1. Snow on the road

Expect fresh or old snow on the roads between November to March in the Spiti Valley. So, roads will be slippery and one needs to drive very carefully. Snow cutters are there but not on the moves always, so there are high chances of getting struck in between too and if weather conditions worsen than there are chances of roads getting closed for several days.

Snow on the road during winter spiti trip

Preparation

  • Remember our vehicles usually don’t have snow tires; so drive with full concentration and as slow as possible; only during the day time
  • Try travelling by 4*4 only and if you don’t own one, do tie snow chains for extra traction
  • Don’t try to apply hard brakes, especially on the black ice as there are high chances of vehicle getting slipped
  • Reduce Tyre pressure and add more weight in your car by luggage or add stones
  • In case your car loses control, don’t apply brakes. Release the accelerator and let the car go to intended direction
  • Also keep a towing cable and shovel, in case you need to clear snow on the way

2. Limited food joints on the way 

Finding a food joints while taking the winter Spiti trip is a challenge in itself.

After Rampur the places which serves you food are at Tapri, Spillow and Nako. Between Nako to Kaza, there is no food joint option.

Limited Food Joint Options - Spiti Winter Trip

Preparation

  • Carry along packed food, at least a stock of 1 week. You never when you can get stuck.
  • Drink lot of water to avoid dehydrtion & AMS and Thupka or soup to keep yourself warm

3. Sub Zero Temperatures

As you cross Rampur and drive towards Kaza, the temperature dips further and goes subzero.  The villages above Kaza i.e. Hikkim, Langza, Komic are much colder and here temp even go as low as – 25 degrees. So, the key to live and stay comfortable in this extreme weather is to wear proper layered clothing.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BkVL3CxlcTa/

Preparation

  • Wear clothes in 3- 4 layers, with a warmer / thermal inside to fleece to thick feather jacket to wind cheater outside.
  • Keep your head, hands and feet covered. 
  • Also keep snow and ice proof, warm boots which have enough traction for walking on slippery surface
  • Carry a pair of sunglasses to avoid snow glare / blindness
  • Keep drinking something warm
  • When inside sit inside the kitchen around Angithis
  • Never touch metal with bare hands as there are high chances of your skin sticking to the metal. If in any case, that happens, don’t pull your hand away. Instead, pour hot water to detach your hand
  • Keep camphor and cotton handy to light fire, if struck anywhere on the road,

4. Limited Accommodation and Resources

As the winters set its feet in Spiti Valley majority of the hotels, guest houses and home stays close down. Only few home stays are operational and ready to host you. So, it’s always advised to go with a pre-booking in winters.

Evening view of Kaza- Spiti Winter Trip
Evening view of Kaza – Spiti Winter Trip

During our Spiti winter trip we met few folks from Chandigarh, who came without booking and it was a big nuisance for them as well home stay owners. First all the running home stays were booked and they didn’t get the place to stay. Second, there was a fight for the resources. Still, the big heart Spitians accommodated them.

Preparation

  • Book your stay in advance
  • Limit your expectations as the resources are limited and life is really tough in winters. Water freezes down in pipes and for usage it has to be carried from far away hand pumps. Angithis are kept burning throughout for heating water and keeping the room warm.  The supplies are stored for coming months
  • Don’t compare winters pricing to the summers pricing. Indeed help locals in whatever way you can
Morning windiw view at Tabo. - Spiti Winter Trip
View from our Homestay at Tabo – Winter Spiti Trip

Note: We stayed with Mr & Mrs. Tandup at Pema Homestay in Kaza; a super helpful family who can go beyond limits to give comforts to the guests. You can connect with them at 9459252699, 8988231033 and they charge Rs 1500 per night. 

5. No Bathing & use of Dry toilets

Pipes & sewerage system freezes down in Spiti valley in winters. Locals keep 20 litre and 40 litre cans filled for the usage, which they get after walking miles from the hand pumps. And this is a part of their daily chores. So, give up on bathing every day and remember to save water.

Also the only option for pooping is dry toilets. Dry toilets are like pooping through the hole in the ceiling of a room filled with compost.

Preparation

  • Instead of bathing, ask owners for warm water and do wet towel scrub
  • Carry enough of tissue paper roll and wipes to clean
  • Be prepared to use dry toilets. Dry Toilets don’t smell if used properly. Make sure to add a shovel of compost after you are done
  • Avoid taking your cellphones in the dry toilets. If it drops in the hole, you cannot get it back anyway

6. Frozen Diesel in the car

Don’t be surprised if your car is not starting in the morning. It’s the result of frozen diesel in subzero temperatures and keep in mind that the diesel vehicles are more prone to it than the petrol vehicles.

Preparation

  • Don’t park your car in the open. If there is no other option, at least cover the bonnet/ hood of your car
  • Mix appropriate portion of anti-freeze in the diesel to avoid diesel freezing. And still expect that diesel can freeze and it happened with us during our Spiti winter trip
  • Wait for the sun rays to melt the frozen diesel or use a cylinder with the local’s help. Also you can throw boiling water over the engine
  • There will be more wear and tear of vehicle in the snow as compared to summer trip
  • Always keep a towing cable in your car

7. Getting struck anywhere

Spiti is a land full of challenges so be prepared for the undue situations. Landlines or snow can make you struck here for several days. So, only move on the route after local’s guidance and stay in touch with them.

Preparation

  • Always carry the contact details of a local person with you and inform your homestay owner where you will be travelling for the day
  • If you see the unlikely condition, ask immediately for help
Spiti Winter Trip

8. Limited Medical Help

There is a hospital in Kaza but you can ger only limited medical help. Many times electricity is not there, although during our last trip electricity was there for majority of time in Kaza. Hospital has ambulance service, but if the roads are closed it is of no use.

Preparation

  • Carry all the basic medicines (like Disprin, D- cold, Chestron, Noroflox, Betadine etc) and a first aid kit with you
  • For any major complications, you will be referred to the Rampur Hospital

9. Chances of AMS (Altitude Mountain Sickness)

AMS (Altitude motion/ mountain sickness) can surely hit you at this extreme altitude. So, be prepared and if you see any of such symptoms i.e. a headache, nausea, breathless during Spiti winter trip it is AMS. Seek help immediately.

Preparation

  • Give yourself some time to get acclimatized
  • Keep sipping a lot of hot water
  • You can start a DIAMOX course prior to the trip, only after the doctor’s consultation

10. Fuel and Cash Availability

ATM service is available at Kalpa, Tabo as well Kaza but don’t expect them to have enough cash as well many of them will not be in working conditions.

There is a Fuel station at Kaza which opens only between 10 am to 5 pm and if it snows then it doesn’t open up. Also at times, the fuel tank doesn’t reach Kaza on time. So, there won’t be fuel for a day or more.

Fuel Station at Kaza - Winter Spiti Trip

Preparation

  • Carry enough cash with you
  • Get your vehicle fueled timely

11. Limited Connectivity

Till day Spiti Valley is a remote land and there is only BSNL connectivity. So, it is a perfect place to digitally detox yourself.

Preparation

  • Carry a BSNL sim with you
Winter Spiti Trip

So, these are the challenges which you are most likely going to encounter while taking up a Spiti winter trip. The drive to valley is tough as it checks your patience and endurance but once you pass all this, you will fall in love with it and you will wish to return here every winter.

India, Jammu & Kashmir, Tourism, Travel

Story of Gata Loops, Manali Leh Highway

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Leh Ladakh, the land of high passes is not only blessed with natural beauty, unbelievable landscapes, blue Rivers and sand dunes but it has some absurd stories or notions linked to it too. Are you amazed reading the word stories? Even we were, when we first heard the story from a truck driver while crossing the Gata Loops located on Manali Leh Highway. And imagine, today, this place is famous among the national as well international tourists.

On Manali – Leh Highway

While driving back from Nakeela (third highest pass) to Sarchu, we saw the milestone Gata loops ends here. Next read the line 21 loops at an altitude 15302 feet. I looked towards him (Tashi) in daze, are we going to cross this.

Gata Loops end Signage

He – I guess so as the milestone says

Me– The serpentine road down there. It looks as it will take us to the River bed

He – Looks so

Note: Gata Loops ie. 21 hairpin bend road extends for almost 10 kilometers. You start at 13780 feet and ends at 15302 feet, so there are high chances of getting affected by AMS. (Altitude Mountain Sickness)

And from there, started our downhill journey on the Gata Loops. On the other side we saw the trucks coming uphill on the treacherous curvy road making quite an effort to climb as compared to downhill ride.

Downhill at Gata loops, Manali Leh Highway
Downhill at Gata loops, Manali Leh Highway

I was totally lost in the shades of landscapes around and was clicking pictures while he was concentrating on driving. There in the middle of these 21 loops, we saw a pile of bottles and a small temple. At first instance, we thought it to be a trash point, so just looked, ignored and crossed without making a stop there but then from the side mirror we saw a truck driver getting out and keeping a filled water bottle on the same trash. This scene left us completely confused. Next minute, we halted, parked our vehicle there and moved towards him to understand the story of adding another bottle to the trash.

View from Gata Loops

Me – Why are you keeping the filled water bottle here? There are already 100’s of them lying

Truck Driver – Madam, are you coming on this highway for the first time

Me– Yes

Truck Driver – That is why you don’t know about this place. Passers have to leave something to drink and cigarettes here for the ghost. So, keep anything you have to drink and leave from here as soon as possible.

Me – What Ghost? What is the story behind all this?

The Legend/ Story of Gata Loop

And he started– Years ago, somewhere in October, the truck carrying cargo was driving from Manali to Leh. It started snowing on the way to Rohtang Pass, but the driver and his Cleaner didn’t stop there, as they had promised to deliver the cargo to Leh before the highways get blocked by snow. They pushed the truck hard to cross the treacherous pass Baralacha in Himachal to enter Jammu and Kashmir. But who knew the game of destiny ahead.

After crossing Sarchu, they started climbing the 21 hair pin bend, Gata Loops and there at one of the zig zag bend their vehicle broke down. Driver looked at the cleaner and cleaner at the driver with some verbal slangs. Both of them got out to fix the truck in the bone soring wind, but the truck couldn’t be fixed. They waited for hours for some vehicle to arrive from front and back who could help them in fixing the problem but none of it arrived. It made them come to conclusion that the passes from both sides have been blocked by force of nature.

Ghost of Gata Loops

Seeing the condition, driver made a decision to walk down to the nearby village for help, leaving cleaner behind to take care of the cargo. Driver walked miles and reached a small village but alas there was no mechanic in the village. He continued walking to reach another village and finally he got help there. Driver requested the mechanic to walk with him there itself but seeing the weather conditions he advised to go once the snowfall stops and weather gets better.

The weather turned better next day and they left to reach back the place. It took them several days to reach back and as they reached the site, driver was left completely dismayed. His Cleaner was NO MORE! The poor soul had passed away in a lonely place, in freezing temperature without food and water, guarding the cargo. With a teary eye he decided to perform his last rituals and buried his body at the same spot.

The absurd notion started next year, after the highway got opened. The passers started hearing strange voices and some even noticed a beggar demanding water on the way. Those who gave water bottle, saw the bottle felling from his hands and then re demanding. Whereas others who didn’t offer him water, either got affected by AMS (Altitude Mountain Sickness), injured or even died.

We kept listening and looking at him while he kept smoking and glaring at the landscapes around.

Me: Have you ever seen that beggar or sensed anything fishy while crossing this highway

Truck Driver– No madam. We always keep a filled juice or water bottle here

Me – Okay Brother. Thanks for narrating the story. Wish you a safe journey ahead.

After bidding him goodbye, our curiosity had increased certain folds and we were tempted to have a closer look of the place. There were several dozens of sealed bottles lying around a small built up hut, and the hut had a red flag on the top. I peeped inside the hut and saw the most astonishing thing – a human skull instead of deity.  From there I turned back and stood far on the other side of the road. After calming myself down and getting back to the senses, I looked at Tashi. He was literally laughing at me.

Skull at Gata Loops
Skull in the temple at Gata Loops

Our Version of story

This whole looked like a cooked up story by someone and now the same had spread like a fire among the locals and travelers. For us, it was a completely eye soring experience. We were highly disheartened after listening the disbeliefs people had made and seeing much of trash among the beautiful landscapes. Honestly, we didn’t offer any water bottle; neither we saw any beggar nor experienced any sort of negativity around. There were only unbelievable landscapes and cool fresh air around to take your breath away.

Story of Gata Loops, Manali Leh Highway

So, what do you think about this? We think the tale of Gata Loop is another mysterious tale. We request all the tourists and travelers to stop believing what drivers and locals narrate to them. Be positive and avoid littering the place by bottles and cigarettes. This small effort by all of us can surely save the beautiful mountains and landscapes.

Also, if you have heard any another version of this story or experienced any negativity while travelling to Leh Ladakh do share with us in a comment box.

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