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Himachal, India, Tourism, Travel

Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar in winters- Road Trip to remember

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“Mai ni meriye, Shimle Di Raahe, Chamba Kitni door”

“O Shimle ni vasna, Kasauli ni vasna, Chambe jaana zarur”

Oh Mother! How far is Chamba from Shimla Side,
I don’t want to settle in Shimla or Kasauli,
Have to go to Chamba only!

Have you heard this Himachali folk song? The first time, we heard it, we were absolutely in awe of it and since then; had made up our mind to visit Chamba. On little research, we further found that a trip to Chamba can be clubbed with Dalhousie and Khajjiar. So, on my birthday it was the perfect time to make a winter trip to Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar.

Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar in winters

Dalhousie, a colonial hill station in Northern Himachal Pradesh lies at an altitude 6500 feet above sea level and is a famous tourist spot whereas Chamba lies on the banks of River Ravi at 3300 feet and is an ignored tourist destination. With the similar notions in our head, even we left with a thought of first visiting Dalhousie, then Khajjiar and Chamba. But at times things don’t work according to your plans and you have to choose the paths directed by nature and that is what happened with us.

Winter Trip to Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

How to Reach Dalhousie & Khajjiar?

Dalhousie lies 560 Kilometers from Delhi and 313 Kilometers from Chandigarh. Further, Khajjiar lies 22 km from Dalhousie via Dalhousie Chamba road and 23 km from Chamba. From Delhi we took a halt at Chandigarh and started the next day early at 9:00 am to reach Dalhousie on time.

Route from Delhi  Delhi – Panipat- Karnal – kurukshetra – Ambala – Rajpura- Sirhind- Ludhiana – Phagwara – Dasuya- Pathankot – Dalhuoise – Khajjiar

Route from Chandigarh – Chandigarh – Roopnagar – Garshankar – Dasuya –Pathankot – Dalhousie – Khajjiar

We reached Dalhousie around 4 pm. Roads were covered with slush and had walls of snow on sides whereas some trails were completely laid in white. Trees had specks of snow on them and few cars were covered by 2-3 feet of snow. It clearly seemed the area had received an adequate amount of snowfall this year. We went straight to our hotel JK Clarks Exotica, Dalhousie and after relaxing, left for a quick stroll. It was freaking cold, Sun was playing hide and seek behind the clouds. And as it started getting dark, the wind speed and chilliness increased. In minutes, the rain too joined the drama, and people started running to find the shelter wherever it was possible. We too joined the league and without much delay rushed back to our hotel. The whole night it continued raining and the temperature had fallen drastically (Probably -5 or even lesser than that).

Dalhousie in winters - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar in winters

The next morning, the sky was clear but had some hovering clouds. And within an hour, the weather took a drastic turn from sunny to cloudy. It started raining and locals predicted snowing in Khajjiar. Hearing this, we immediately packed and left for Khajjiar, which lies 23 kilometers ahead. But as soon we reached near Gandhi Chownk Market in Dalhousie, there was a big Que of vehicles apart snow and slush. Traffic was halted and was not allowed ahead to Khajjiar because of the roadblock due to snow. On further inquiry, we learned that it will probably take months or more to open this route.

Jk Clarks Exotica - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

Also Read: Chanshal Pass- The road less traveled in Himachal Pradesh

We started looking for another route option in GPS and the only way was to go Khajjiar from Dalhousie was via Chamba. It too looked completely luck dependent, as the Chamba to Khajjiar road was also closed due to snow till yesterday.

Bit disappointed, we took a U-turn to Banikhet (6 Kilometers from Dalhousie) to refuel our car, and there we saw a diversion for Chamba, stating 44 kilometers ahead.

Note: There is no fuel station in Dalhousie. The last one is available only at Banikhet

Also Read: Walk to the Nako Village in Himachal Pradesh

Dalhuoise to Chamba

From Banikhet itself, we took the Dalhousie Chamba road. Landscapes changed immediately. Roads got wider as compared to the Dalhousie road, and we were driving at lesser altitude. There was greenery all around and the towns on the way looked thickly populated.

On the way to Chamba - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
On the way to Chamba – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

On the way, comes the turquoise green color Chamera Lake. It looks grand and was perfectly gelling with the surrounding. Indeed, with the backdrop of Himalayas, it made the perfect picture.

Chamera Lake - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar winter road trip
Chamera Lake – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar winter road trip

The weather was worsening, so we thought of booking the room at earliest before we don’t get a place to hide. The majority of the hotels were not operating. It looked people had gone to the hibernation zone and they will only come out once the sun warms up the place and summers come back.

Also Read: 5 Winter destinations to see snowfall in Himachal

First look of Chamba - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar Roadtrip.
First look of Chamba – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar Road trip

Somehow Goibibo came into help and we got a place to stay at Anantson resort in Chamba. Reaching the resort was another task, but once we reached and saw the views from the cottage, our whole day pain vanished away.

Our Cottage at Anantson Resort, Chamba - Dalhouise Chamba Khajjiar
Our Cottage at Anantson Resort, Chamba

Rains had washed away the dust, everything looked crystal clear and now we knew why the above Himachali Song quotes “Chamba Jana Zarur” (Must visit Chamba).

The town looked heavenly on the banks of River Ravi. There were shades of green everywhere, clouds were floating among the Himalayas and extreme winters looked like monsoons. The ancient town still looked unadulterated although modernity has begun to sneak into the lives of town people.

View of River Ravi and Chamba from our Balcony- Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
View of River Ravi and Chamba from our Balcony

The beautiful Chambalis were happy to greet and meet us. We inquired about the Chamba – Khajjiar road from the manager and were happy to know that road had just been opened yesterday. For us the perfect day was still ahead; so, we spent rest day gazing and clicking the landscapes from various angles.

At Anantson Resort - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
At Anantson Resort

Chamba to Khajjiar

The next day, after a good scrumptious local Chamba breakfast (Aloo cooked in Dahi and Puri), we left for the trip to a winter wonderland – Khajjiar, also known as Switzerland of India. It lies only 22 kilometers form Chamba. But just a kilometer ahead from the resort, there was a big landslide. Disappointment started building up again in our mind, but our heart was fighting back with positive thoughts. After an hour the road got cleared and we took a turn to Khajjiar.

Route for Chamba to Khajjiar

The single-lane road looked narrow, steep. We had to climb another 3300 feet in 22 Kms. Landscapes looked breathtaking. The great Himalayas in between were decorated with patches of terrace gardens, colorful houses and had adorned a beautiful white crown. Clouds were floating along with the scalps and it looked like rain on the mountain tops. We inquired from another crossing car about the way and were super delighted to hear Yes!

On the way to Khajjiar - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
On the way to Khajjiar – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

Also Read: Hike to Kheerganga

From there we took a deep ascent and the specks of snow increased to mounds and trails. The Dauladhar range of Himalayas started resembling black forest cake and there came the board of view of ManiMahesh Kailash Peak, also known as Chamba Kailash (One of the five abodes of Lord Shiva according to Hindu mythology). It was engulfed by the clouds while going but we got a crystal view while returning back.

Manimahesh view point on the way to Khajjiar- - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
Manimahesh view point on the way to Khajjiar

We reached the entrance of the Kalatop – Khajjiar reserve. It was snowing inside and was dark. Roads were completely covered in white except the tire marks. There were no vehicles and people. The whole scene looked scary for driving but Tashi wanted to drive. 5 Kilometers distance felt like 50 kilometers here, as we were driving at speed of 10. The car was slipping, and there was no parapet. Literally my heart was pounding and in the next few minutes’ taxi crossed us giving assurance to go ahead. We followed them, kept moving, and there we saw the first view of meadows.

Entrance to Kalatop Khajjiar Reserve - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
Entrance to Kalatop Khajjiar Reserve – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

Note: Khajjiar is a part of Kalatop – Khajjiar wildlife sanctuary

OMG! Is this for real? It was a dreamy winter wonderland, with Dhauladhars on one side and pine forests on other. The road was not visible except the Tyre marks. Clouds were floating in the snowy meadows. There was silence all around, and looked shops, restaurants all were closed due to bad weather.

Turning to Khajjiar meadows

Without stoppage, we directly moved to HPTDC (Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation) Hotel Devdar Khajjiar. What a perfect location they have? The resort directly opens to meadows and our balcony room had a Khajjiar Lake view. It was still snowing and raining, looked 2 feet snow will soon turn to 3 feet.

Outside Hotel Devdar, Khajjiar - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
Outside Hotel Devdar, Khajjiar – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

Hotel Devdar, Khajjiar

We left our vehicle in between the road and climbed the stairs to check whether the hotel is operational or not. The manager came out and our fear came true. There was No water, No electricity from the past 7 days and it was too cold. Met Department had forecasted overnight snow and the roads might get closed for several days. Hotel Manager narrated this and asked us to stroll and play in the snow for an hour and go back to their Chamba guest house in the evening.

View of Khajjiar Meadows form Hotel Devdar - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

But “we were we”. We reversed the talks by saying that, we don’t need electricity, we just need a bucket of hot water and give us the same food you will cook for yourself. We will be more than happy. He got convinced and allowed us to stay.

Also Read: Must know Challenges before taking a winter Spiti Trip

Honestly, it was one of the best decisions we took. If one moment the snow meadows were covered with moving clouds, another moment we could see the saucer-shaped Khajjair lake in between the Devdar forest with a backdrop of white Himalayas.

Stairs leading to Khajjiar Meadows

Note: Other good locations to stay are Forest and PWD Guest House, but you need to have a prior booking with them.

Khajjiar Meadows

After having tea at hotel, we left for a quick walk. It was serene and magical beyond words. White powder was all we could see around. There we saw leading stairs to reach the Khajjiar meadows and we took them at once.

Our feet were sinking in the snow and looked only a few tourists had set their foot on it. Lake was completely frozen from one end and the other side looked semi-frozen. We wanted to walk along the circular meadow and visit the Khajjinag temple but it didn’t look like a perfect time. So, we retired back to our hotel early.

At Khajjiar Meadows - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar Roadtrip
At Khajjiar Meadows – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar Road Trip

At night, the moon was playing hide and seek with clouds and the snow in the meadows was glowing like a silver sheath. We wanted to take some good night shots but gave up in the freaking cold and started waiting for the next morning.

Also Read: Our love for Old Manali over New Manali

The next morning was a promising sunny morning. We got ready as active birds to roam in the circular meadows. The entire Dhauladhar range was clearly visible and it was painted in the shades of white and green.

Khajjiar Meadows in winter- Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar.

The Khajjiar meadows which looked all-white yesterday, now looked entirely different, colors were jutting out from white. Locals were out in the sun to bask their bodies whereas adventure organizers were hunting tourists for paragliding, tube Skiing, river crossing, snow skating, etc but all we wanted to do was see, feel, and click every inch of the circular meadows.

Khajjiar Meadows - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar

Khajjinag Temple, Khajjiar

In between the Khajjiar meadows stood an ancient, golden dome Khajjinag Temple, dedicated to Naga- the lord of serpents. The temple is also known as Golden Devi Temple. It was built by King of Chamba in 12th century and was renovated in 16th century. The temple has a lot of wooden work, which looks a perfect blend of Mughal and Indian architecture. The Temple is believed to have a mythological significance too. The circumambulatory path of the temple has the images of Pandavas defeating the Kauravas in the epic battle of Mahabharata.

Also Read: Tabo – National Historic Treasure of India

From the temple keep moving toward the Khajjair lake. There were water streams in between and spongy earth around the banks of the lake, due to the dense growth of weed called vacha.

Boat in the frozen Khajjiar Lake- Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar
Boat in the frozen Khajjiar Lake

From there walk towards the fairytale HPTDC cottage, smushed between green and white. We couldn’t stay here this time, but for sure during the next visit.

HPTDC cottage in Khajjiar Meadows- Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar Road Trip
HPTDC cottage in Khajjiar Meadows

After the complete round, it was time to head back to the civilization but our heart and mind were not ready to leave. We were still looking back at the mesmerizing scenery at each step. Khajjiar is a perfect combination of lakes, meadows, and mountains which resembles a fairyland of the stories.

Also Read: Padam Palace – The royal Palace in Rampur Bushahr

Why Khajjiar is known as Mini Switzerland?

Khajjiar is among the 160 locations in the world that bear topographical resemblance to Switzerland. On 7 July 1992, Mr. Willy T. Blazer, the Vice Counselor and Head of Chancery of Switzerland in India brought it on the world tourism map by calling it “Mini Switzerland”. He also installed a signboard showing Khajjiar’s distance from the Swiss capital Berne -6194 km.

Khajjiar Meadows - Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar Road Trip
Khajjiar Meadows – Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar Road Trip

The counselor also took a stone from Khajjiar, which will form part of a stone collage around the Swiss Parliament to remind the visitors of Khajjiar as a Mini Switzerland of India.

Also Read: View of Chau Chau Kang Nilda from Langza

Points to Remember for Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar winter trip

  • Snow looks very fascinating but driving on it is really tough and risky. Don’t try to be a stunt man and drive as slow and cautiously as possible
  • There are high chances of vehicle slipping on applying brakes, so be really careful
  • Try driving 4* 4 and if you don’t have one, use snow chains to increase the traction
  • Do cover your bonnet at night to avoid freezing of fuel
  • Don’t drive in extreme snowfall as you can get struck too. Listen to the local’s instructions
  • Walk very carefully in the snow; as a severe fall can lead to fractures too
  • Fuel station is available at Chamba and Banikhet
  • Be prepared for NO electricity and No water at Kahjjiar in winters
  • There are plenty of ATM in Dalhousie as well Chamba

Also Read: Shimla After Snowfall

Must carry

  • Do carry multiple layers of clothes from warmers to fleece to feather jackets, wind cheaters, cap and gloves
  • Also keep rain coat, umbrella, sun glasses
  • Snow and water proof boots are must. If you don’t have one, you can get them on rent at Khajjiar meadows

Also Read: Spiti Valley in winters

Other Nearby Attractions

  • Kalatop Sanctuary
  • Chamera Dam
  • Dainkund Trek

Best Season to visit Dalhousie Khajjiar & Temperature

Dalhousie Khajjiar can be visited throughout the year. Summers lasts from March – July (temperature lies between 32 – 44 degrees Celsius), Monsoon is in July – August (Temperature 22 – 35 degrees Celsius) and winters step from November till February (Temperature 7 to -4 degree Celsius).

For snow lovers, the best time is January- February, and remember it is an off-season too.

Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar in winters

You can find more pictures of Dalhousie Chamba Khajjiar winter trip on our Facebook and Instagram accounts or find us by using #allgudthings.

Himachal, India, Tourism, Travel

Must know Challenges before taking a Spiti winter Trip

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Sometimes, you hear a place and mark it to your wish list. That is how our Spiti saga started in 2013. And we never knew a single visit there will make the place become our second home. Yes, we are absolutely in love with Valley and now want to see it in in every color, in every season. We have traveled to Spiti Valley multiple times in summers and the wish list was to do a Spiti winter trip now.

There is a common thought among people that travelling to Spiti Valley in winters is not possible – as the roads get snow covered and becomes inaccessible, temperature falls extremely low and survival gets tough. But the question was then how do locals survive. We wanted to see the challenges they face during winters and how they tackle them. So, we took a self-drive road trip to Spiti valley in winters (i.e. in January).

Before leaving from Delhi, we checked the MET department forecast, rain and snow both were predicted in the upper hills. There were high chances of getting struck but our spirits were much higher than the thought of getting struck.

Route for Spiti Valley in winters

There are two routes to enter Spiti – one from Shimla and other from Manali. In winters i.e. by October end, Rohtang La and Kunzum La both get covered with heavy snow, so one cannot enter through Manali and complete circuit via exit from Shimla. So the only viable option is to enter and exit through Shimla.

Our route – Delhi – Shimla – Rampur – Rekong Peo – Tabo – Kaza

Beyond Kaza, towards Kunzum La and Chandratal roads gets closed. So, the farthest one can reach is Kaza and the villages around it i.e Kibber, Komic, Langza, Hikkim, Tashigong.

What to expect while doing winter Spiti Trip

By October end or November first week the valley start receiving snow and the temperature dips down to negative around -10 degree Celsius. Public transport service decreases and the only moving vehicles you get to see are of local Spitians, local taxis and of government officials.

1. Snow on the road

Expect fresh or old snow on the roads between November to March in the Spiti Valley. So, roads will be slippery and one needs to drive very carefully. Snow cutters are there but not on the moves always, so there are high chances of getting struck in between too and if weather conditions worsen than there are chances of roads getting closed for several days.

Snow on the road during winter spiti trip

Preparation

  • Remember our vehicles usually don’t have snow tires; so drive with full concentration and as slow as possible; only during the day time
  • Try travelling by 4*4 only and if you don’t own one, do tie snow chains for extra traction
  • Don’t try to apply hard brakes, especially on the black ice as there are high chances of vehicle getting slipped
  • Reduce Tyre pressure and add more weight in your car by luggage or add stones
  • In case your car loses control, don’t apply brakes. Release the accelerator and let the car go to intended direction
  • Also keep a towing cable and shovel, in case you need to clear snow on the way

2. Limited food joints on the way 

Finding a food joints while taking the winter Spiti trip is a challenge in itself.

After Rampur the places which serves you food are at Tapri, Spillow and Nako. Between Nako to Kaza, there is no food joint option.

Limited Food Joint Options - Spiti Winter Trip

Preparation

  • Carry along packed food, at least a stock of 1 week. You never when you can get stuck.
  • Drink lot of water to avoid dehydrtion & AMS and Thupka or soup to keep yourself warm

3. Sub Zero Temperatures

As you cross Rampur and drive towards Kaza, the temperature dips further and goes subzero.  The villages above Kaza i.e. Hikkim, Langza, Komic are much colder and here temp even go as low as – 25 degrees. So, the key to live and stay comfortable in this extreme weather is to wear proper layered clothing.

Preparation

  • Wear clothes in 3- 4 layers, with a warmer / thermal inside to fleece to thick feather jacket to wind cheater outside.
  • Keep your head, hands and feet covered. 
  • Also keep snow and ice proof, warm boots which have enough traction for walking on slippery surface
  • Carry a pair of sunglasses to avoid snow glare / blindness
  • Keep drinking something warm
  • When inside sit inside the kitchen around Angithis
  • Never touch metal with bare hands as there are high chances of your skin sticking to the metal. If in any case, that happens, don’t pull your hand away. Instead, pour hot water to detach your hand
  • Keep camphor and cotton handy to light fire, if struck anywhere on the road,

4. Limited Accommodation and Resources

As the winters set its feet in Spiti Valley majority of the hotels, guest houses and home stays close down. Only few home stays are operational and ready to host you. So, it’s always advised to go with a pre-booking in winters.

Evening view of Kaza- Spiti Winter Trip
Evening view of Kaza – Spiti Winter Trip

During our Spiti winter trip we met few folks from Chandigarh, who came without booking and it was a big nuisance for them as well home stay owners. First all the running home stays were booked and they didn’t get the place to stay. Second, there was a fight for the resources. Still, the big heart Spitians accommodated them.

Preparation

  • Book your stay in advance
  • Limit your expectations as the resources are limited and life is really tough in winters. Water freezes down in pipes and for usage it has to be carried from far away hand pumps. Angithis are kept burning throughout for heating water and keeping the room warm.  The supplies are stored for coming months
  • Don’t compare winters pricing to the summers pricing. Indeed help locals in whatever way you can
Morning windiw view at Tabo. - Spiti Winter Trip
View from our Homestay at Tabo – Winter Spiti Trip

Note: We stayed with Mr & Mrs. Tandup at Pema Homestay in Kaza; a super helpful family who can go beyond limits to give comforts to the guests. You can connect with them at 9459252699, 8988231033 and they charge Rs 1500 per night. 

5. No Bathing & use of Dry toilets

Pipes & sewerage system freezes down in Spiti valley in winters. Locals keep 20 litre and 40 litre cans filled for the usage, which they get after walking miles from the hand pumps. And this is a part of their daily chores. So, give up on bathing every day and remember to save water.

Also the only option for pooping is dry toilets. Dry toilets are like pooping through the hole in the ceiling of a room filled with compost.

Preparation

  • Instead of bathing, ask owners for warm water and do wet towel scrub
  • Carry enough of tissue paper roll and wipes to clean
  • Be prepared to use dry toilets. Dry Toilets don’t smell if used properly. Make sure to add a shovel of compost after you are done
  • Avoid taking your cellphones in the dry toilets. If it drops in the hole, you cannot get it back anyway

6. Frozen Diesel in the car

Don’t be surprised if your car is not starting in the morning. It’s the result of frozen diesel in subzero temperatures and keep in mind that the diesel vehicles are more prone to it than the petrol vehicles.

Preparation

  • Don’t park your car in the open. If there is no other option, at least cover the bonnet/ hood of your car
  • Mix appropriate portion of anti-freeze in the diesel to avoid diesel freezing. And still expect that diesel can freeze and it happened with us during our Spiti winter trip
  • Wait for the sun rays to melt the frozen diesel or use a cylinder with the local’s help. Also you can throw boiling water over the engine
  • There will be more wear and tear of vehicle in the snow as compared to summer trip
  • Always keep a towing cable in your car

7. Getting struck anywhere

Spiti is a land full of challenges so be prepared for the undue situations. Landlines or snow can make you struck here for several days. So, only move on the route after local’s guidance and stay in touch with them.

Preparation

  • Always carry the contact details of a local person with you and inform your homestay owner where you will be travelling for the day
  • If you see the unlikely condition, ask immediately for help
Spiti Winter Trip

8. Limited Medical Help

There is a hospital in Kaza but you can ger only limited medical help. Many times electricity is not there, although during our last trip electricity was there for majority of time in Kaza. Hospital has ambulance service, but if the roads are closed it is of no use.

Preparation

  • Carry all the basic medicines (like Disprin, D- cold, Chestron, Noroflox, Betadine etc) and a first aid kit with you
  • For any major complications, you will be referred to the Rampur Hospital

9. Chances of AMS (Altitude Mountain Sickness)

AMS (Altitude motion/ mountain sickness) can surely hit you at this extreme altitude. So, be prepared and if you see any of such symptoms i.e. a headache, nausea, breathless during Spiti winter trip it is AMS. Seek help immediately.

Preparation

  • Give yourself some time to get acclimatized
  • Keep sipping a lot of hot water
  • You can start a DIAMOX course prior to the trip, only after the doctor’s consultation

10. Fuel and Cash Availability

ATM service is available at Kalpa, Tabo as well Kaza but don’t expect them to have enough cash as well many of them will not be in working conditions.

There is a Fuel station at Kaza which opens only between 10 am to 5 pm and if it snows then it doesn’t open up. Also at times, the fuel tank doesn’t reach Kaza on time. So, there won’t be fuel for a day or more.

Fuel Station at Kaza - Winter Spiti Trip

Preparation

  • Carry enough cash with you
  • Get your vehicle fueled timely

11. Limited Connectivity

Till day Spiti Valley is a remote land and there is only BSNL connectivity. So, it is a perfect place to digitally detox yourself.

Preparation

  • Carry a BSNL sim with you
Winter Spiti Trip

So, these are the challenges which you are most likely going to encounter while taking up a Spiti winter trip. The drive to valley is tough as it checks your patience and endurance but once you pass all this, you will fall in love with it and you will wish to return here every winter.

India, Jammu & Kashmir, Tourism, Travel

Story of Gata Loops, Manali Leh Highway

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Leh Ladakh, the land of high passes is not only blessed with natural beauty, unbelievable landscapes, blue Rivers and sand dunes but it has some absurd stories or notions linked to it too. Are you amazed reading the word stories? Even we were, when we first heard the story from a truck driver while crossing the Gata Loops located on Manali Leh Highway. And imagine, today, this place is famous among the national as well international tourists.

On Manali – Leh Highway

While driving back from Nakeela (third highest pass) to Sarchu, we saw the milestone Gata loops ends here. Next read the line 21 loops at an altitude 15302 feet. I looked towards him (Tashi) in daze, are we going to cross this.

Gata Loops end Signage

He – I guess so as the milestone says

Me– The serpentine road down there. It looks as it will take us to the River bed

He – Looks so

Note: Gata Loops ie. 21 hairpin bend road extends for almost 10 kilometers. You start at 13780 feet and ends at 15302 feet, so there are high chances of getting affected by AMS. (Altitude Mountain Sickness)

And from there, started our downhill journey on the Gata Loops. On the other side we saw the trucks coming uphill on the treacherous curvy road making quite an effort to climb as compared to downhill ride.

Downhill at Gata loops, Manali Leh Highway
Downhill at Gata loops, Manali Leh Highway

I was totally lost in the shades of landscapes around and was clicking pictures while he was concentrating on driving. There in the middle of these 21 loops, we saw a pile of bottles and a small temple. At first instance, we thought it to be a trash point, so just looked, ignored and crossed without making a stop there but then from the side mirror we saw a truck driver getting out and keeping a filled water bottle on the same trash. This scene left us completely confused. Next minute, we halted, parked our vehicle there and moved towards him to understand the story of adding another bottle to the trash.

View from Gata Loops

Me – Why are you keeping the filled water bottle here? There are already 100’s of them lying

Truck Driver – Madam, are you coming on this highway for the first time

Me– Yes

Truck Driver – That is why you don’t know about this place. Passers have to leave something to drink and cigarettes here for the ghost. So, keep anything you have to drink and leave from here as soon as possible.

Me – What Ghost? What is the story behind all this?

The Legend/ Story of Gata Loop

And he started– Years ago, somewhere in October, the truck carrying cargo was driving from Manali to Leh. It started snowing on the way to Rohtang Pass, but the driver and his Cleaner didn’t stop there, as they had promised to deliver the cargo to Leh before the highways get blocked by snow. They pushed the truck hard to cross the treacherous pass Baralacha in Himachal to enter Jammu and Kashmir. But who knew the game of destiny ahead.

After crossing Sarchu, they started climbing the 21 hair pin bend, Gata Loops and there at one of the zig zag bend their vehicle broke down. Driver looked at the cleaner and cleaner at the driver with some verbal slangs. Both of them got out to fix the truck in the bone soring wind, but the truck couldn’t be fixed. They waited for hours for some vehicle to arrive from front and back who could help them in fixing the problem but none of it arrived. It made them come to conclusion that the passes from both sides have been blocked by force of nature.

Ghost of Gata Loops

Seeing the condition, driver made a decision to walk down to the nearby village for help, leaving cleaner behind to take care of the cargo. Driver walked miles and reached a small village but alas there was no mechanic in the village. He continued walking to reach another village and finally he got help there. Driver requested the mechanic to walk with him there itself but seeing the weather conditions he advised to go once the snowfall stops and weather gets better.

The weather turned better next day and they left to reach back the place. It took them several days to reach back and as they reached the site, driver was left completely dismayed. His Cleaner was NO MORE! The poor soul had passed away in a lonely place, in freezing temperature without food and water, guarding the cargo. With a teary eye he decided to perform his last rituals and buried his body at the same spot.

The absurd notion started next year, after the highway got opened. The passers started hearing strange voices and some even noticed a beggar demanding water on the way. Those who gave water bottle, saw the bottle felling from his hands and then re demanding. Whereas others who didn’t offer him water, either got affected by AMS (Altitude Mountain Sickness), injured or even died.

We kept listening and looking at him while he kept smoking and glaring at the landscapes around.

Me: Have you ever seen that beggar or sensed anything fishy while crossing this highway

Truck Driver– No madam. We always keep a filled juice or water bottle here

Me – Okay Brother. Thanks for narrating the story. Wish you a safe journey ahead.

After bidding him goodbye, our curiosity had increased certain folds and we were tempted to have a closer look of the place. There were several dozens of sealed bottles lying around a small built up hut, and the hut had a red flag on the top. I peeped inside the hut and saw the most astonishing thing – a human skull instead of deity.  From there I turned back and stood far on the other side of the road. After calming myself down and getting back to the senses, I looked at Tashi. He was literally laughing at me.

Skull at Gata Loops
Skull in the temple at Gata Loops

Our Version of story

This whole looked like a cooked up story by someone and now the same had spread like a fire among the locals and travelers. For us, it was a completely eye soring experience. We were highly disheartened after listening the disbeliefs people had made and seeing much of trash among the beautiful landscapes. Honestly, we didn’t offer any water bottle; neither we saw any beggar nor experienced any sort of negativity around. There were only unbelievable landscapes and cool fresh air around to take your breath away.

Story of Gata Loops, Manali Leh Highway

So, what do you think about this? We think the tale of Gata Loop is another mysterious tale. We request all the tourists and travelers to stop believing what drivers and locals narrate to them. Be positive and avoid littering the place by bottles and cigarettes. This small effort by all of us can surely save the beautiful mountains and landscapes.

Also, if you have heard any another version of this story or experienced any negativity while travelling to Leh Ladakh do share with us in a comment box.

You might be interested in checking our other posts from Leh Ladakh

Leh Ladakh Road trip from Delhi

Leh Palace

A walk with Indian soldier at Kargil War Memorial

Nubra Valley: The Valley of Flowers in Ladakh

A day at White Lake Tso Kar in Ladakh

Attractions on the Srinagar Leh Highway

Ladakh-The land of High Passes

All you need to know about Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit 

Do’s and Dont’s for Ladakh Road Trip

Hemis Monastery: Biggest & Wealthiest Gompa in Ladakh

Sonamarg, Kashmir – The Golden Meadows of India

Bhuttico Kullu Shawls & Accessories – The Gift of Valley

Leh ladakh Palaces

10 reasons why everyone should travel India

The colored Tibetan Prayer Stones – Mani Stones

Arunachal Pradesh, India, Tourism, Travel

Dambuk Orange Festival – Confluence of Speed, Music & Oranges

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“Let the adventure in you come and experience the confluence of speed, music and oranges with us at Dambuk” – read the email in our inbox. We couldn’t believe our eyes – it was an invite to attend the Dambuk Orange festival at Arunachal Pradesh. Without any if & buts it was a big yes, as we will be heading to the another lush green North East state i.e. Arunachal Pradesh (the land of rising Sun), after Sikkim.

Dambuk Orange Festival

Brief about Dambuk

Dambuk, a Tehsil in Lower Dibang Valley is one of the unexplored places of Arunachal Pradesh. The land is fed by Dibang River in the east and Sisar River in the west. So, in summers i.e. from April to late October the land becomes the prisoner of nature and it can only be reached only via Elephant back, boat or helicopter. So, this is one land which is easily accessible by roads only in winters, unlike Leh Ladakh & Spiti valley.

Dambuk Orange Festival, Arunachal Pradesh

It is also the 10th least populated district and is occupied by Adis and Idu Mishmi tribes. The tribes are majorly into agriculture and they cultivate super juicy Oranges. Dambuk, as fascinating the name is; so being the journey to reach this place.

How to Reach Dambuk

Dambuk lies 30 kms from Roing (district headquarters), 268 kms from Itanagar (Arunachal Pradesh state capital) and 189 kms from Dibrugarh (largest city of Assam). The place has no direct flight, train or bus connectivity. The nearest airport is Dibrugarh airport and further journey can be done only in private or shared cabs.

The view before landing at Dibrugarh Airport - On the way to Dambuk Orange festival.
The view before landing at Dibrugarh Airport – On the way to Dambuk Orange festival.

Our route: Delhi to Dibrugarh by air and further by private cab. The time taken from Dibrugarh to reach Dambuk is 4-5 hours. So, total duration to reach Dambuk from Delhi is 8-9 hrs.

Delhi – Dibrugarh – Tinsukia – Roing- Dambuk

After reaching Dibrugarh in Assam, our excitement levels were already swelling. We wanted to rush at earliest as it gets dark here after 4:30 pm. So, with in no time we board our cab and left for the off road adventure. After crossing spanning tea estates, Brahmaputra river, thick forests and driving on the stones and unpaved road, we reached Dambuk around 6:30 pm, completely ignorant about what was all around except the gushing voice of Brahmaputra River.

Sunset at River Lohit - Tributary of River Brahmaputra on the way to Dambuk Orange Festival
Sunset at River Lohit – Tributary of River Brahmaputra

The early sunrise made us rise early and we were pleased to see the splendid beauty. Brahmaputra River was flowing in the lap of Himalayas. There were specks of snow on the mountain peaks, sun was playing hide and seek in the clouds, birds were singing, green was budding, adventure vehicles were lined up and Oranges were hanging from trees. The whole aura seemed extra ordinary and there were clear signs of spectacular confluence of Oranges, Music and Adventure i.e. Dambuk Orange festival.

Camps at Bomjir Dambuk - Orange Festival , Arunachal Pradesh
Camps at Bomjir – Orange Festival Dambuk, Arunachal Pradesh

What is Dambuk Orange Festival

Dambuk located amidst the rain forests of Lower Dibang valley in Arunachal Pradesh is a venue for the Dambuk Orange festival. It is an extravaganza of music, speed, local dances, culture and food.

Orange Festival Dambuk 5 – was a treat to senses and soul. It had all what an adventurous soul like us need- from the happening local sports, dances, adventures, tribal food, music and adrenaline pumping activities. The festival spread over 4 days had day and night stage. The day stages branched from Galo dialect to local folk, classical music to jazz, thoughtful music to rock and poetry. Whereas as the night stages begun after the sun sets on the festival ground. Musicians and bands from India and international, electrified the Dambuk in an unrestrained way.

Some of the highlights of Orange Dambuk festival are:

1. Oranges

The Khasi Mandarin highly juicy and sweet oranges, hang beautifully on the slopes of Himalayas in the apt environment. They are available in 16 varieties and is liked nationally as well internationally. The first global consignment for the Arunachal Pradesh Mandarins (65mm-70mm diameter) were signed up in 2017 and today majority of it is exported. You hardly get to buy few for yourself. Indeed, the demand has already overpowered the supply.

In the Orange Orchard at Dambuk orange festival
In the Orange Orchard at Dambuk orange festival

Price of these oranges vary from Rs. 5- Rs.10 per piece and one can buy them in a beautiful handmade basket/ box in Rs.200/- (Expect No Bargaining

2. Adventure

Before attending the Dambuk orange festival, we always thought that the extreme adventure like 4X4 fury is in its nascent stages in India but the festival broke our misconception completely. Indeed, the Dambuk valley is a perfect setting for adventure lovers to get a frill of adrenaline rush.

Dambuk Orange festival - Confluence of music, adventure and oranges

In 5th edition of Dambuk Orange festival (the first of adventure and music festivals), almost 50 teams from all over India, participated in the JK tyre 4X4 fury championship. The competition was spread over 9 stages ranging from coursing the Sisar River located on the outskirts of Dambuk to crossing the dry river bed with spectacular mountain backdrop, to tackle the steep downhill section in Sinah river, to crossing the slush and swamp.

Jk Tyre Orange 4*4 Championship - Dambuk Orange Festival

The last stage of the Fury gave us shivers. The whole act was more of a teamwork thing. If one vehicle went steep downhill and crossed the stony riverbed, other was well geared up at the top to pull it back by the use of winches. You actually need a daredevil heart and nerves of steel to perform these acts in the lower Dibang valley. Hats off to all the participants and definitely the winners.

Jk Tyre Orange 4*4 Championship - Dambuk Orange Festival
Jk Tyre Orange 4*4 Championship – Dambuk Orange Festival

Apart all these, there were special provisions for other adventure activities like dirt cycling, ATV rides in the deep forest, parasailing, para motoring for around 20 minutes and landing among the orange orchards, white river rafting in the Brahmaputra river, Zip lining, Scuba diving, and elephant rides.

Of all these sports we tried our hands on River Rafting, scuba diving, para motoring, ziplining etc. River rafting and scuba diving was done in association with NIMAS (National Institute for mountaineering and adventure sports).

Scuba Diving in Brahmaputra River, Dambuk Orange Festival
Scuba Diving in Brahmaputra River, Dambuk Orange Festival

River rafting was super fun in group. The instructors from NIMAS taught us how to maneuver the raft among the tides in the river and move smoothly. We crossed rapids of grade 1+K3, 2+k2 while covering 10 kilometers. Getting wet with the chilling water and sun rays pouring to make you dry, made the Rafting experience unforgettable. Scuba Diving in the River, too is exclusive.

River Rafting in Brahmaputra River, Dambuk orange Festival
River Rafting in Brahmaputra River, Dambuk orange Festival

3. Music

Music the soul of Dambuk Orange festival, rocked the festival grounds every night around 5:30 pm. Total 28 bands, out of which 25 Indian and 3 International Brands made the crowds literally grove to their music. Boys, girls, travelers, media, rally drivers all were swaying and jumping with every beat and it was too infectious for us to be spared.

Dambuk Orange Festival - music

The last day weather was showering its blessings in the form of rain but who could have stopped the crowd. People were flowing with umbrellas and in rain coats to listen to the Swedish Band The Thundermother and The Iron Maidens (world only female tribute to the The Iron Maidens). We too were in the same league, got completely wet and swayed with locals and friends in this night to remember.

Kathmandu Killers at Orange festival Dambuk

Although each band had set the stage on fire with its own type of music from trance to punk, hardcore, metal, classical etc but of all the Iron Maidens won our heart. We loved the enthusiasm of lead vocalist Kristen Rosenberg, the way she cheered and appraised the crowd and rocked our Indian flag on the festival stage.

Kristen Rosenberg from the Iron Maidens at Dambuk Orange Festival
Kristen Rosenberg from the Iron Maidens at Dambuk Orange Festival

Other attractions of the Dambuk Orange Festival

Cultural performances by the tribes. We witnessed the Adi Tribal dance, where men were dressed up in black, with a huge head gear. This dance is performed as a celebratory dance, after winning the war and their energy levels were truly beyond appreciation.  

Orange eating competition was the another highlight of the competition. There was a huge participation and the one who ate 6 oranges in a minute won the competition

Tribal Sports like archery, angling, tribal house building, orange plucking and forest walks were also on the venue for locals and travelers.

Local Jewelery of Arunachal Pradesh , Dambuk Orange festival
Local Jewelery of Arunachal Pradesh , Dambuk Orange festival.

Local handicrafts like cane and bamboo baskets, woven and knitted handbags, Dao (themetal knives with bamboo sheath) and brass ornaments were also put on sale at shacks.

Traditional Food & drinks at Dambuk Orange Festival

The Orange festival Dambuk is a great place to savor over fresh, traditional local tribal food. Some of the dishes we tried were Pork, egg fried ginger, Chana chat, orange pudding, Pao Bhaji and the farm fresh Khasi Mandarin (Orange) juice, prized from Rs.100- Rs.200/-.

Pao Bhaji at Orange Festival Dambuk
Pao Bhaji at Orange Festival Dambuk

Along with food, quench your taste buds with the local Rice wine known as POKA, available in 3 varieties as Black Poka, Poka with effervescence and white Poka. The best Poka we liked was effervated one served in the local made Bamboo glass.

Poka tasting session at Dambuk Orange Festival
Poka tasting session at Dambuk Orange Festival

These little shacks at a makeshift village Dambuk, is the most interesting place in the festival as music, booze and talk flows among the random people and you end up making friends.

Shacks at Orange Festival Dambuk

Venue of the Orange Festival Dambuk

The orange festival is a unique orange themed music and adventure festival, organized in the temporary village Dambuk, surrounded by Himalayas in the backdrop laden with orange orchards. The venue was completely organic made with Bamboo sticks and clothes and robust enough to bear the rains. It looked everything has been made just for the festival.

Idea behind the Dambuk Orange Festival

The idea of Orange festival Dambuk was laid down by Mr. Abu Tayeng in association with Government of Arunachal Pradesh to spur tourism in the unexplored land, to increase the employment opportunities for tribal people and to stimulate the economic development.

With Mr. Abu Tayeng Director of Orange Music Festival Dambuk
With Mr. Abu Tayeng Director of Orange Music Festival Dambuk

Today, because of these efforts by locals of Arunachal Pradesh, a state is known nationally as well international for music and adventure festivals like Hornbill festival, Ziro festival of Music, adventure@ mechuka, Orange festival etc.

Accommodation in Dambuk

There are not many accommodation options in Dambuk. One can either pitch his/her own tent or book the place in temporary place We stayed in Bomjir camps, one of the beautiful natural camps, around 15 kilometres from the festival venue. Bomjir has permanent bamboo huts and tents with attached washrooms. Don’t expect the luxury here, but they are warm enough to make your comfortable. You can book the accommodation here with them.

Dining and Bar area at Bomjir camps, Dambuk Orange festival
Dining and Bar area at Bomjir camps, Dambuk Orange festival

Transportation in Dambuk

If on one end, accommodation is a challenge in Dambuk, then transportation too is no less. There are total around 10-15 vehicles which takes care of all the travelers in the fest. Be prepared to walk for miles and then hitchhike. Indeed, this is one of the another level of adventure in the music and adventure festival.

Permit for Arunachal Pradesh

Arunachal Pradesh, a border country shares its border with Bhutan in the west, Myanmar in the east, and is separated from China by the McMahon line. For visiting the state, Indian Nationals need to have the Inner Line Permit for Arunachal Pradesh and International tourist must carry Protected Area permit.

Indian nationals can apply for ILP here.

Must carry for Dambuk

  1. Remember to carry the festival tickets. You can register here
  2. Inner Line Permit certificate
  3. Identity Proof like Aadhar card, voter ID, Pan card etc
  4. Enough Cash. We didn’t find any ATM nearby Dambuk.
  5. Only Airtel and Jio connectivity was there in the zone.
  6. Comfortable sturdy boots for walking
  7. Warm jacket and wind cheater as the temperature drops down at night
  8. Rain Coat and umbrella as it can unexpectedly rain here
  9. Some extra clothes, if you are up for the adventures like scuba diving, river rafting etc
  10. Basic medicines are a must, as there are no chemist shops in the area
  11. Torch, hat and sunscreen lotion

What to avoid carrying to the Orange festival Dambuk   

  1. Avoid wearing any type of expensive jewelry
  2. No illegal/ offensive items as there is a check post before entering the state
  3. No outside alcohol
  4. No weapons and drugs

Our Overall Experience

Dambuk the nestled town in Arunachal Pradesh is a sheer natural beauty. The Dibang river flowing nearby with mountains in the backdrop makes it a musical land. The place and festival is a perfect mix of everything traditional and modern; to music, speed and thrill, yet maintaining the distinct rustiness of the state.

Dambuk Orange Festival

So, if you are done with the common places and looking for unique adventure head over to the Orange Festival Dambuk. You can check more pictures of Dambuk on our social channels Instagram and Facebook or use hashatg #allgudthings