Category Archives: Jammu & Kashmir

Nubra Valley: The Valley of Flowers in Ladakh

September 26, 2017 allgudthings 54 Comments

It was a late evening in Leh and we thought of renting a bike for our next day ride to Hemis Monastery, to add some more thrill to our Leh Ladakh road trip. Without the second thought, we reached a bike shop and the first question bike lender asked us was – Are you going to take the bike to the Valley of flowers! We looked at each other and the quick open mouth response was, what are you saying? Are you kidding, the valley of flowers in Ladakh? Where is this and how can we reach there? He gave a smile, handed the bike and left us with all the questions unanswered. The keenness was on our head and we started exploring more from the locals. After no answer, we surfed about it further on the internet and found that he was referring to none other than the famous Nubra Valley.

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But the question was why is this barren cold desert at 10,000 feet known as Valley of Flowers? And the answer is because the name Nubra originated from the word Ldumra which itself means Valley of flowers. So, after taking the inner line permit, visiting Hemis monastery and the local attractions like Leh Palace and other Palaces of Ladakh, we left on the second day from Leh to the Nubra valley.

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Nubra Valley

Nubra Valley is one of the sub-districts of Ladakh and lies 116 kilometers from Leh. It is located on the North East side and has Diskit Village as its headquarters. The valley can be reached from Leh by crossing the highest motorable road and the Khardung La lying at an 18,380 feet altitude, in just 5-6 hours.

The route for Nubra Valley:

Leh – South Pullu- KahardongLa (40 km) – North Pullu (15 km)- Khalsar (40 km) – Diskit (22 km) – Hunder (12 km)

The Nubra valley was once the important part of the traditional silk route and now it is well known by the famous Siachen Glacier. It is a sensitive and border zone and has been opened to the public only in 2010.

As, we crossed the snow-capped peaks of Khardongla and moved towards North Pullu, the shades and artistic landscapes of valley left us stunned. The landscapes of Nubra valley are truly bewitching. There are huge barren shaded mountains, dozing valleys, and partially inhabited borderlands with the musical Shyok River (a tributary of Indus River) flowing in between the desert. Roads are unnoticeable from a distance and some are even unmarked on the Google map. The clouds float in the deep blue sky giving the whole valley a miraculous look.

The distant hamlets in between the valley have beautiful patchwork fields of polar, barley, mustard, and pea; along the river and in between houses giving the green and yellow shading to the barren valley. There are apricot and almond plantations too, which during the bloom might leave the valley truly vibrant and magical. In fact, it is one of the greenest valleys of Ladakh and is also known as the Food Bowl of Ladakh.

There are plenty of mud and stone houses, with few pukka houses in the in-between village. The stupas, monasteries, Mani stone walls, and Tibetan flags reflect the typical Tibetan Buddhist culture. The people of Nubra valley have distinct Ladakhi features and are quite humble and friendly.

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Best time to Visit Nubra Valley

Nubra valley usually closes down from November to April. The peak tourist seasons are May to August. Whereas in September and October, there are fewer tourists but the chill starts biting the valley.

Expected Temperature

In summers i.e. from May to July – temperature varies between 8 to 20 degree Celsius whereas August is considered to be the monsoon season, so rains can bring the temperature really down too. Despite days being hotter, nights are bit cooler and pleasant in the valley.

Winters in Nubra valley are really cold and dry. They last from November till April and the temperature vary between -4 to -24 degree Celsius.

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Charms of the Nubra Valley

Diskit Village

Diskit is the administrative center of Nubra valley and lies 116 km from Leh on the Shyok River. As we approached the Diskit village, the vibes of Tibetan culture and serenity in the wild engulfed us. The village seemed like a commercial hub of the whole valley. The village is well known for its dramatically positioned 15th century Diskit Monastery and 32 meters tall Maitreya Buddha statue.

Diskit Monastery can be reached by driving or by walking along with the Mani stones and white chortens. But we preferred driving only, as we were in short of time and it was too hot. Entrance Fee: Rs 30/- and timings are from 7 am-1 pm and from 2 pm -7 pm.

The 32-meter high statue, placed on the hillock is a standing glory and the perfect example of skilled craftsmanship. The Maitreya Buddha statue faces down the Shyok River, facing towards Pakistan. The statue is a symbol of protection of Diskit Village, prevention of further war with Pakistan and to promote world peace.

Close to the monastery is also Lachung temple, the oldest temple of Nubra Valley.

Reflections of the Nubra Valley

Just as we left further towards the Hunder Village, there was something more holding or captivating than the barren landscapes and wide valleys. And it was the reflections of these majestic peaks with the clouds hovering in the deep blue sky and wild horses gazing around.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BX7k9z5hQ-W/?hl=en&taken-by=suruchimittal

Sand Dunes, Bactrian Camels, Seabuckthorn forests and Silhouette shots of Nubra Valley

Just a few kilometers ahead, we saw another astounding face of the valley. The barren landscapes were taken away by the Rocky Mountains on one side and grayish-white sand dunes on another extending in kilometers till Village Hunder. The patterns of these sand dunes seemed bizarre and ever-changing. So, Hunder is all about the white cold desert. And if there is a desert there have to be camels too. But what is so special about these camels?

In Hunder, there are double-humped Bactrian camels, which apart from here are only found in Kazakhstan and Afghanistan. These camels can be seen in the dunes between 9 am -12 pm; 3 pm -7 pm or grazing in the nearby sea buckthorn forests. The Bactrian camels including their children are tagged for reference and tourism purposes. One can opt for Safari on these during the mentioned hours by just paying Rs.300/- per person. We didn’t feel like going ahead with it as we were more interested in admiring the valley and taking the silhouette images.

Double Humped Bactrian Camel, Nubra Valley

Mani stone walls of Hunder Village

At village Hunder, there is a small roadside monastery known as Chamba. Just from there opposite of the Gompa, runs along Mani stone wall extending to the hills. Follow it clockwise and you will run to the watchtower on the height giving some terrific views.

Mani Stone wall at Hunder Village, Nubra Valley — Mani Stonewall at Hunder Village

The last Village – Turtuk

Turtuk, predominantly a Muslim Village lies 90 km ahead of Hunder and is the last outpost in India. The roads to Turtuk are well paved and it can be done as a day trip. The village is a virgin and an apt place to interact with the Balti community of Ladakh.

Turtuk Village, Nubra Valley (Source: BBC.com)

Nubra Valley Hotels / Accommodation

There are multiple homestays, guest houses, camps and resorts at Diskit and Hunder for the stay. We opt to stay at Hunder with the Apple Cottage resort. The resort had multiple tents among the apple orchards. Remember to negotiate, the pricing for these cottages varies with season.

Apple Cottage Resort, Hunder Village in Nubra Valley — Apple Cottage Resort, Hunder Village

Points to Remember while traveling to Nubra Valley

Inner Line permit is required for traveling to Nubra Valley. Click the link to read about it.
Days are really hot in Nubra but evenings are still cooler. So, one needs a thin jacket for the evenings.
Remember to cross the Mani stones always in the clockwise direction.
Try to visit Pangong Tso, after Nubra Valley as it helps in better acclimatization.
Follow the paths carefully while diversion from Khalsar; otherwise, you may enter the army bases as we did by mistake.
Carry enough cash as there are no ATM’s.
Only postpaid BSNL connections work in the Nubra Valley.

Note: Apart from this, there are few more accessible areas and places to visit in Nubra Valley like Sumur, Hot springs at Panamik, Yarab Tso, Samstanling Monastery, Zamskhang Palace, and Terisha Tso.

You might be interested in checking our other series of Ladakh too:

A day at White Lake Tso Kar in Ladakh

Attractions on the Srinagar Leh Highway

Ladakh-The land of High Passes

All you need to know about Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit

6 must-visit Leh Ladakh Palaces before they disappear

A Walk with Indian Soldier at Kargil War Memorial

Leh Ladakh Road trip from Delhi – 13 days itinerary

Story of Gata Loops

Dos and Donts for Ladakh Road Trip

Hemis Monastery: Biggest & Wealthiest Gompa in Ladakh

Sonamarg, Kashmir – The Golden Meadows of India

Bhuttico Kullu Shawls & Accessories – The Gift of Valley

Leh Palace

10 reasons why everyone should travel India

The colored Tibetan Prayer Stones – Mani Stones

India, Jammu & Kashmir, Tourism, Travel

A day at White Lake Tso Kar in Ladakh

September 16, 2017 allgudthings 41 Comments

As we are writing our next series of Leh Ladakh road trip from Delhi, we are getting nostalgic. We started writing about the Nubra Valley but the story of White Lake Tso Kar, which is the smallest of the three main high altitude lakes of Ladakh (Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, and Tso Kar) popped up before in our mind. So let’s know a little about white Lake Tso Kar in Ladakh.

Route for the White Lake Tso Kar

Tso Kar can be reached directly from Tso Moriri, via going to Leh from Manali or via returning from Leh to Manali.

From Tso Moriri

White Lake Tso Kar lays 90 km from Tso Moriri and the total distance can be covered in 4-5 hrs. The roads of this route are only of gravel and dirt.

From Leh

Tso Kar lays 153 km from Leh. Ahead Debring, there is a diversion for Tso Kar. The whole distance can be covered in 5 hrs, crossing Taglang La. The roads are really good except a few patches of gravel and dirt.

White Lake Tso Kar

The White Lake Tso Kar, also known as Kar Tso or Tsho Kar is an L shaped brackish water lake in Ladakh at an altitude of 15,367 feet. It is not a wide expanse of blue water like Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso but a marshland in the wide valley with deep water at places, spreading up to 7.5 Kilometre. The other end of Tso Kar can’t be traced standing anywhere, even from the Thukje monastery top.

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Around the White Lake Tso Kar, there is dense and tall grass and thick salt deposits. The salt deposits can be seen on all the sides of the lake, making it look white but the maximum was on the eastern side and these exactly resembled the days or month’s old snow from a distance. The salt was and is still collected by the local nomads known as Rupsu Chang and traded locally in Jammu and Kashmir.

Tso Kar, the White Lake is not as blue and turquoise like other lakes of Leh but it is more of bluish-white. It is surrounded by snow-capped peaks on the western bank whereas the colored reddish-purple hue mountains on the southeastern side. The straight tarmac roads run in the village between the valley and look newly built and super clean.

Stacked Coloured Mountains on the Southeastern side of White Lake Tso kar — Stacked Reddish purple-colored Mountains at White Lake Tso Kar

Historically, the White Lake Tso Kar ranged high up till the valley and the cutout marks by water can be clearly seen on these huge mountains, while ascending towards the beautiful Monastery of Thukje Village. But look at the lake now, it has receded drastically and is still receding every year.

White Lake Tso Kar with salt deposits on Clear Days — White Lake Tso Kar with salt deposits (Source: Wikipedia)

Fauna at White Lake Tso Kar

The surrounding countryside of Tso Kar is a bird watcher and wildlife paradise. Locals answer the place to be home to the Kiangs, Tibetan gazelles, Tibetan wolves, and foxes. We only could trace the Beautiful Kiangs/ Kyangs, the largest of wild asses sprinting and roaring around the white lake. The roaring sound was loud, distinct and it echoed in the empty valley, leaving us completely chaotic and fuddled. At the basin, one can find ducks, black-necked cranes, bar-headed geese, and crested grebe. The Black-necked cranes come to Tso Kar to lay eggs.

Accommodation at White Lake Tso Kar

There are just single-digit counted white gray parachute tents, homestays, and resorts at Tukhje village. We choose to spend a night at Tso Kar resort which lies at the end of the village and away from the White Lake Tso Kar, completely engulfed in the calmness of the virgin landscapes.

Tents at Tso Kar Resort - White Lake Tso Kar — Tents at Tso Kar Resort

Tso Kar Eco Resort

The Tso Kar Eco resort houses both tents as well as rooms. We choose the tent first, thinking the clouds will vanish by night and we will be able to see the galaxies above. But the temperature dipped further because of strong wind, rain, and snowflakes in the late evening and it forced us to move to the rooms. Rooms at the resort are very basic, equipped with enough blankets and quilts to keep you warm, but still, AMS (Acute mountain sickness or Altitude sickness) surely hits one at Tso Kar. We too felt this was the coldest place and night in our whole Leh Ladakh road trip. The staff of the hotel was quite courteous and friendly. They enlightened us about the locality but still, we were uncomfortable and uneasy because of the chill.

Views from Tso Kar Resort- White Lake Tso Kar — Tso Kar Resort

Cook served us a three-meal course dinner with 90’s songs playing in the background but we were not able to take even two courses in that cold. Electricity comes in the village as well as the resort only after 7:00 pm or when it gets dark and stays till 11:00 pm. In the morning, there is no hot water in the washrooms but staff provides the same in buckets to get fresh. And forget about the phone and internet connections here.

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After getting fresh, we drove till the Tukjhe monastery to get a glimpse of the Tso Kar lake from height and that is what we saw- not only the white and blue stripe of the lake but the vast shaded landscapes extending up to several kilometers. The scenery around can make you stare it for hours.

Monastery at Village Tujhske, near White Lake Tso Kar — The monastery at Village Tujhske

Glimpse of Village & White Lake Tso Kar from Tujhske Monastery — View of Village Tukhje and Tso Kar from Monastery

That was not the end; we came back to the Tso Kar Resort to take out luggage to leave ahead but our chit-chat with the staff members of Tso Kar resort still continued. We were really curious to know what they do in their free time. And the answer was full of leisure time. They listen to songs, chit chat, soak and sleep in sun. Interestingly one of them, Tenzin loved to write too. The writing he shared with us was simply amazing and we thought of sharing his thoughts with you with his permission.

“Talking with Nature”

Early in the morning, the silver moon gives way to the Crimson Sun;

Drops of Dew smile, but mud still smells with night rains;

Walking down the Lanes of Memory, each step tells a story;

With each story there is a change;

But I continue my walk…………

Cold, soothing, fresh fragrance; breeze with a feathery touch;

Feels the same as a year before;

Red, Blue, Yellow flowers smile and sway everywhere in the valley,

Making me wonder have I changed;

Cooing Doves, calling sparrows & a wagging tail dog passes, smiling my way back

But I continue my walk…………

We read the poem multiple times standing there and felt his talk with nature is deep and lovely. The village Tukhje and white Lake Tso Kar are natural and straight out from heaven. There are the only bunch of villagers in the village and army base which is a kilometer away. Villagers might be talking and spending time with each other but they also love talking to nature. After all, nature is their best and forever friend in this deserted barren land.

Points to remember at White Lake Tso Kar

Even, if the days are warm at Tso Kar, evenings and nights can be chilly. So carry and wear woolens timely. And if it rains, on that, the temperature can even dip to 0 or -1 degree Celsius in summers.
Rooms are basic in Tso Kar but they are good enough to keep you warm.
There are high chances of being hit by AMS at 15,000 feet. So, take precautions to tackle it and stay warm. If AMS gets worse, do take help.
Before heading towards the lake, check the trail carefully, as it is a marshland.
The Lake is accessible only from June to October.
Don’t roam alone on the roads after late evening as wild animals to roam freely that time
Kiangs run and make you run endlessly if you try to come close to click them.
The horns of Urial (Wild Sheep) and Yak are kept as guardians, outside the homes in Ladakh. And don’t try to bring them at home with you, as the hotel staff informed us that it is illegal.
Horns of Urial (Wild Sheep) and Yak outside Tso Kar Home

Overall, we enjoyed staying and spending time at white Lake Tso Kar and the resort. We will surely like to go back when it’s sunny to get more views. What about you?

Apart from this you can check our other series of Leh Ladakh road trip

India, Jammu & Kashmir, Tourism, Travel

Ladakh- The Land of High Passes

September 6, 2017 allgudthings 72 Comments

“Our Land is so barren and the passes so high, that only the best friends or the fiercest enemies come to visit us”

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The above saying can be found everywhere on the internet about Ladakh the Land of High Passes; also known as the roof of the world but never knew the deep meaning behind it. In July 2017, while doing a 13-day long road trip to Leh Ladakh from Delhi; we saw the same quote at various places posted by BRO (Border Road Organisation) and now after visiting quite the part of Ladakh; crossing one valley to another we have understood the real meaning of each word.

It is true that the whole land in Ladakh is barren; a cold desert lying at an altitude between 10,000 – 25000 feet, where temperature even dips to -50 degrees Celsius in winters. The army is on its foot front guarding Indian border from Pakistan and China, and the passes are not only India’s but worlds highest. Some of these passes or La, as known in Ladakh are the highest motorable and treacherous roads. So, in this post, we will be talking about why Leh Ladakh is known as Land of high passes. The word Ladakh itself is composed of two words La and Dakh, where La stands for “passes” and Dakh stands for “many” which together comes to Land of High Passes. It’s not 5 or 6 passes but overall there are more than 20 passes. And if you are following our itinerary then will be crossing around 15 passes. So, let’s see the passes covered by AllGudThings.

The route to Leh Ladakh from Delhi

Delhi – Ludhiana – Jammu – Srinagar – Sonamarg – Kargil – Leh – Hunder- Pangong Tso – Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Keylong – Manali – Chandigarh – Delhi

Ladakh – The Land of High Passes

1. Zoji La

Altitude: 11,649 feet

Road: From Sonmarg to Zoji La, roads are serpentine and single Lane

The first pass; Zoji La lies on Srinagar – Leh highway is 24 km ahead of Sonamarg and is the gateway to Ladakh. This highway is also known as NH1D and has high strategic importance, as it links Ladakh with the Kashmir Valley. Zoji La is quite daring and thrilling for nature lovers as the green valleys are taken over by barren cliffs and here the winter never seems to end. The tall walls of snow can still be seen in July- August too.

Just meters ahead form pass, there is a Zero-point where no natural habitation exists. Here, the snow lovers can enjoy snow sports like sledding, snow bikes and trek to the barren mountain.

Zero Point at Zoji La - Ladakh, the land of high passes — Zero Point Near ZojiLa (Ladakh – The Land of High Passes)

Also, enjoy some Maggi with tea/coffee at shacks. It is really windy at the pass; so wear some woolen or windcheater, to protect yourselves.

Note: Zojila receives on an average, 60 feet of snowfall and it opens only in April end or May.

2. Namika La (Pillar of The Sky Pass)

Altitude: 12,198 feet

Roads: Well constructed road, continuous ascent, and descent; lie 16 km ahead of Mulbekh.

The Namika La is one of the two passes between Kargil (Also Read- Kargil War Memorial) and Leh in the Zanskar mountain range. The mountain at the pass has a pillar-like object rising to the sky. The mountains around are arid and offer a 180-degree view of the valley. The Tibetan prayer flags around the summit flutter at its best.

3. Fotu La / Fatu La

Altitude: 13,149 feet

Roads: Well constructed road with a thick layer of tarmac, continuous ascent and descent with hairpin bends, lies 36 km ahead of Namika La and 14km from Lamayuru.

Fotu La is considered as one of the highest points on Srinagar – Leh highway. From here one gets the perfect view of rugged, brown, stacked mountains. Ahead the road descends to beautiful Lamayuru town. Personally, we feel the views from this pass are photographers and videographers’ delight.

Fotu La; Ladakh - The Land of High Passes — Fotu La in Ladakh – The Land of High Passes

On the pass is also located the relay station of Prasar Bharati television that serves Lamayuru village.

Relay Station of Prasar Bharati Television at Fotu La: Ladakh, the land of high passes — Relay Station of Prasar Bharati Television at Fotu La

4. Khardung La/ Khardongla (Pass of Lower Castle)

Altitude: Claimed to be at 18,380 feet, but actual height is 17,700 feet

Roads: Lies 39 km from Leh; roads are paved from Leh till South Pullu i.e almost till 24 km; After that rock and dirt road with snow melting streams in between North Pullu to South Pullu. Overall the roads are continuous winding ones.

Time Taken: 2.5 – 3 Hrs

Khardongla lies in the Ladakh range and is a gateway to Nubra and Shyok valleys. The pass was built in 1976 and opened to the public only in 1988. The pass is strategically important as it is used to carry supplies to the Siachen Glacier. Khardongla offers breathtaking views, is covered with snow all around and thousands of Tibetan prayer flags decorate the place.

KhardungLa; Ladakh- The land of High Passes — KhardungLa in Ladakh- The land of High Passes

For visiting this pass, Indian as well as International tourists both need a Leh Ladakh Inner Line and Protected Area Permit.

Note:

You will find hundreds of bikers, cyclists, and four-wheelers at the pass, so this La is highly packed.
The roads are quite narrow & slippery because of the melting snow.
At this high altitude one is likely to suffer from AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), so rush back towards lower altitude as the symptoms appear. Take help if it is severe.
The best time to visit is between May – September, however, the pass remains open throughout.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BYYoe0JhVp-/?taken-by=suruchimittal

5. Chang La (Pass towards South)

Altitude: Lies at 17,590 feet

Roads: Steep climb, well-constructed road but almost 15 km before and after the Chang La pass, the road is of loose dirt and slush. Small streams too appear across the road.

The Chang La lies on the way to Pangong Lake via Leh and is covered with snow throughout the year. It is the main gateway to the Changthang plateau located in the Himalayas. The views from the pass are mesmerizing, scenic and adventurous along with breathlessness and extreme chill. If one is lucky enough, one can get to witness snowfall happening.

Both Indians, as well as international tourists, require Leh Ladakh inner line permit and protected area permit respectively for visiting Chang La and Pangong Tso too.

Road to Pangong Tso via Chang La: Ladakh; the land of high passes — Ascent to Chang La

There is a myth that Chang pass is named after Saint Chang La but the myth is banished by army personnel.

Note:

It’s quite windy and chilly at Chang La, so wear woolens and cover your head and feet too.
Don’t stay there for more than 20 -25 minutes, to avoid AMS.
Check the weather conditions from locals before leaving for this route.
The roads are slippery and steep, be really slow and careful.
The best time to visit is from May – October.
Enjoy hot tea served by the Indian army
Carry extra fuel from Leh

6. Rezang La

Altitude: Lies at 16,000 feet

Road: Completely dirt and gravel road, except for a few places there is a tarmac road.

Rezang La lies in the Chushul Valley, 46 km from Spangmik on the way to Tso Moriri. The landscapes on the way are beautiful, scenic and at times, one might be the only lone wanderers. Local advised us to follow the electricity wires, to avoid getting lost. The place is known for Rezang La Memorial; which is built as a tribute to the martyrs of Sino – Indian War, 1962.

Rezang La Memorial: Ladakh, the land of high passes — Rezang La Memorialin Ladakh; The Land of High Passes

Domestic tourists need an Inner Line Permit to travel along this way whereas International tourist needs special protected area permit.

Note: Rezang La lies at a really high altitude, so just stop for a short span of 20-25 minutes.

7. Chagga La/Tsaka La

Altitude: Lies at 15,242 feet

Road: Gravel, dirt and rocky road, Continuous steep road.

Tsaka La Road: Ladakh, the land of high passes — Tsaka La Road in Ladakh; The Land of High Passes

The Tsaka La lies on the way to Tso Moriri from Pangong Tso. The area around Tsaka La is almost barren and the roads are only accessible during summer months. It is advised to take this route only if you are confident enough to drive on steep mountain roads. The drive becomes tougher if roads are wet.

8. Namashang La

Altitude: 15800 feet

Road: Mostly gravel & Dirt road; steep too. One needs to be really attentive and careful here to be on the track.

The Namashang La lies between Mahe & Kyagar Tso on the way to Tso Moriri. Roads are only accessible during summers. And just like Rezang La and Chagga La, Indian tourists need Inner line permit and foreign tourists need Protected Area Permit.

9. Polo Kongka La

Altitude: 15800 feet

Road: Dirt road, not very steep, but maximum you can drive is at a speed of 20 -30 lm/hr.

Polo Kongka La lies on the way from Tso Moriri to Tso Kar near Pulga. On the way, there are many sulfur springs also known as Pulga Hot water spring.

Polo KongKa La; Ladakh: The Land of high Passes — Polo KongKa La; Ladakh: The Land of High Passes

Note: Do check the condition of roads before leaving for Tso Kar from Tso Moriri.

10. TagLang La

Altitude: Lies at 17,582 feet

Road: The roads are well paved while ascent from Moore plains and during descent towards Upshi.

Road to Taglang La, Ladakh: The Land of High Passes

The TagLang pass lies between Leh and Pang and is considered to be the highest pass among all the passes on Manali – Leh Highway. The pass is well made, paved and there is a shack on the top too. Luckily or unluckily, at Taglang La; we experienced rain, snow and chilled wind with almost zero visibility. The mountains around are snow-laden and the valleys are electrifying. The pass summit is overall laden with Tibetan prayer flags.

The pass is impassable during winters. During snow melting and rains, roads become too slippery. There is a small temple on the Taglang La.

Note:

The temperature and oxygen supply at the pass is relatively low. So, there are high chances of AMS.
Stay maximum at Taglang La for 20- 25 minutes.

11. Lachung La / Lungalacha La

Altitude: 16,616 feet

Road: Steep paved road at a pass, in between patches of dirt and gravel roads, bumpy because of a lot of potholes.

The Lachung La lies on Manali – Leh highway and is 22 km from Pang. The pass is completely deserted and the cold winds blow at a very high speed. The vast landscapes, brown humped mountains, and valleys around it are known for its exquisite beauty.

Note: The pass gains sudden height from 15000 feet and the cold here increases tremendously. If one is not acclimatized well, he/she will surely face the symptoms of AMS.

Views from Lachung La: Ladakh, The Land of High Passes

12. Nakee La

Altitude: Lies at 15,647 feet

Roads: Well construct red asphalt steep road passes between the rocky gorge.

The Nakee La pass too lies between Pang and Sarchu; just 19 km ahead to the LachungLa. The Indus river flows along in the valley, leaving green patches on the arid mountain slopes. As you descend from the pass, one crosses 21 hair loops known as the famous Gata Loop. There is an interesting story related to the loop which you can read on our blog.

Just like other passes, here too, it is quite windy. The weather here is really unpredictable; in seconds it changes from the sunshine to rain and snow.

Note: Roads get slippery after rain and snow, so be really careful.

13. Baralacha La

Altitude: 16,040 feet

Road: Well constructed, steep, paved road with multiple water streams flowing in between and some of these are really wild. On one side there are huge mountains, while on another deep valley; so be careful while driving.

The Baralacha La lies between Sarchu and Jispa, 59 km from Sarchu in Himachal Pradesh, India. The pass summit has crossroads from Ladakh, Lahaul Spiti, Zanskar and was earlier a famous trade road. It is also a base for many treks. We encountered lightning and rain at Baralacha pass. Roads and the whole valley turned foggy but still, it was really serene. We guess the pass will be much prettier in clear weather.

Just 3 km ahead of the pass, we saw a pentagon-shaped, turquoise blue pond, known as Suraj Taal, which is the source of river Bhaga.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BXNtSo7h5lZ/?taken-by=suruchimittal

The BaraLacha La closes down in winters due to heavy snowfall and one doesn’t need any permit to cross it while coming back to Manali from Leh.

Note:

There are multiple streams passing on the road. Cross only if it’s not extreme, as it can be dangerous.
Be careful with the falling rocks and landslides.
April to October is the best time to travel this pass.

14. Rohtang La / Rohtam Pass (Pass of Corpuses)

Altitude: 13,054 feet

Road: The road is really rough and in dreadful condition. There are patches of gravel and then completely muddy and slushy roads. There are a lot of potholes and one mostly faces traffic jams while ascending and descending the pass.

The Rohtang La is on the Manali – Leh highway in Himachal. It lies 53 km from Manali; connects Kullu Valley with Lahaul -Spiti and is a gateway to Keylong from Manali. It is considered to be one of the most dangerous passes. Every year the pass faces many landslides, gets completely embedded in snow and the road cleaners use GPS services to dig it back. There are always chances of getting stuck in between while crossing the Rohtang pass. Sometimes the jam gets cleared only after 10 -12 hrs.

Stupa at Rohtang La : Ladakh, The Land of high Passes — Stupa at Rohtang La

The pass is highly scenic, offers views of glaciers, peaks, lush green valleys, and Chandra River. Indeed it is one of our favorite passes too. While we crossed it, the whole pass was under and in between the clouds. There was hardly any visibility; the cold breeze was caressing our face but the fear of 13 days Leh Ladakh trip getting over had started biting us.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BXk2Fsrhm7V/?taken-by=suruchimittal

Just 6 Km ahead of the pass submit lays a Rani Nallah, which is huge and ferocious and can be dangerous too.

Note:

The Rohtang Pass opens only for a short window between May end or June till November. If the snowfall happens earlier than November then it also closes early.
One needs a Rohtang pass Permit; for visiting it from Manali.
Drive really slowly and be very cautious while crossing the pass.
Every Tuesday, the pass remains closed because of the repair work carried out by BRO.

Rani Nallah at Rohtang La: Ladakh, The Land of high Passes — Rani Nallah at Rohtang La

Apart from this, there is one unknown pass around Chushul, and people have named it as Chushul Pass or Chushul La.

We encountered all colors of nature while being on this path. Crossing 15 passes in 13 days has actually made us believe that name Ladakh is perfect. It stands true to its words and is actually the mesmerizing Land of high passes. In case, you think we had missed out listing anyone here, do let us know. We will try to include it, as will cover the missed out La’s in our next post of Ladakh – The Land of high passes.

Other related articles from the Leh Ladakh series:

6 must-visit Leh Ladakh Palaces before they disappear

A walk with Indian soldier at Kargil War Memorial

Nubra Valley: The Valley of Flowers in Ladakh

A day at White Lake Tso Kar in Ladakh

Attractions on the Srinagar Leh Highway

All you need to know about Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit

Leh Ladakh Road trip from Delhi – 13 days itinerary

Story of Gata Loops

Dos and Donts for Ladakh Road Trip

Hemis Monastery: Biggest & Wealthiest Gompa in Ladakh

Sonamarg, Kashmir – The Golden Meadows of India

Bhuttico Kullu Shawls & Accessories – The Gift of Valley

Leh Palace

10 reasons why everyone should travel India

The colored Tibetan Prayer Stones – Mani Stones

India, Jammu & Kashmir, Tourism, Travel

All you need to know about Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit

August 28, 2017 allgudthings 38 Comments

Leh Ladakh lies in a sensitive zone as it shares a border with China and Pakistan. Only part of the area was opened for tourism in 1974 and the no of tourists traveled that year to the region was merely 527 (mostly foreigners) whereas by 2015 -2016 the opened area for tourism increased and the stats too have grown to 2-3 Lakh per year. Some of the opened tourist areas fall into the Inner line zone which means one needs a special permit to visit them. So, here in this post, we will be sharing all about Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit, zones under it, documents required for Indians and foreigners and Protected Area Permits.

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What is a Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit?

Firstly, Inner Line Zones are the restricted areas where civilians are permitted only for a limited duration. And Inner Line Permit (ILP) or simply Permit is an Indian government stamped document issued to the Indian Citizens from outside the state, to enter the inner line permit zone. These are issued to check and note the movement in the restricted areas.

In Leh Ladakh, for visiting the tourist places near LOC (Line of Control), Pakistan and LAC (Line of Actual Control), China border, one requires the Inner Line Permit. It was first implemented in 2012, then waived off in 2016 and now reimplemented in 2017.

Note:

Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit is not required for Jammu & Kashmir residents and children below 12 years of age. But do carry ID Proof along.

Areas that require Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit

- Pangong Tso (Chang La, Durbuk, Tangtse, and Spangmik)
- The whole of Nubra Valley (Khardung La, Diskit, Hunder, TurTuk, Sumur, Ranamik, Warshi)
- Leh to Tso Moriri (Chumathang, Mahe, Sundo, Tso Moriri)
- Leh to Loma Bond (Leh, Chumathang, Mahe, Nyoma, Loma Bond)
- ChangThang Valley
- Chushul, Hanle
- Phobrang & Marsimik La
- Leh to Batalik
- Dah & Hanu Village
- Tangyar Trek (From Leh- Saboo – Tangyar)
- Wari la
- Merak

Note:

Inner Line Permits are not required for Sightseeing in Leh, Zanskar Valley, Suru Valley, Manali – Leh Highway and Srinagar – Leh Highway

Near KhardungLa @18380 feet: Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit — Near Khardungla

Procedure for Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit

The Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit can be collected by visiting DC office located in the Leh market opposite J&K bank between 9:00 am – 7:00 pm, through hotel agent or online which is introduced recently in the year 2017.

Visiting DC office

Before visiting the DC office, collect the permit form from the stationery shop located just outside the office. Fill the form and submit it at the counter along with ID proof copies of all the people traveling and revised charges. The following documents can work as your Identity proofs: Driving License, Election Card, Aadhar card, Passport and Pan Card.

The Revised Charges per Person is:

Rs 400 as Environmental Fee &
Rs 20/day as Wildlife Protection Fee

Note:

DC Office Timings: 9:00 am – 7:00 pm on all 7 days; Lunch Time: 2:00 -3:00 pm. The whole process takes almost an hour. Rest it will depend on the rush.

Ensure to submit all these documents before 3:00 pm to take the next day permit. After collecting the signed Permit, get at least 15 or more photocopies done of the same, from the same stationary shop located outside the DC office. Minimum 2- 3 copies will be required in each region for submission at the check posts en route.

Through Hotel or Agent

In case of your tight schedule, you can check with the hotel or their agents to get the inner line permits collected for you. They will charge a small commission fee of Rs. 200- Rs.500/-(do negotiate) and for more assurance do hand them an authorization letter.

Hunder in Nubra Valley: Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit — Hunder in Nubra Valley

Online Permit

From 2017, tourists can apply online too for the Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permits at www.lahdclehpermit.in. At the bottom of this web page, there is a purple circle mentioning apply for a permit. Click and it will take you to the window, where you can submit all the required details. After this, you can select the route. One needs to be really careful while selecting the route as there are no options to change it. After selecting the route take the print of the document. Carry this document with yourself and submit them with the fee at DC office, Leh. Do read all the steps carefully before filling up the form.

Note:

The online module is still not completely functional. One still needs to visit the DC office and stand in queue for submitting a fee. So, according to us, the offline process is much better, today.

Validity of the Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit

The Inner Line permit is valid for 3 weeks for Indian Nationals. And, there is no limit on the number of time you enter the place in the valid period but ensure to have the photocopies of the permit for submission at check posts.

Also, read Leh Ladakh road trip Itinerary

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Protected Area Permit (PAP) or Restricted Area Permit (RAP) for Foreigners

The Foreign nationals are issued PAP or RAP instead of Inner Line Permit. They must carry a Passport, valid visa, and his/her photograph while traveling to the Leh Ladakh. The permit can be applied by the foreigners online at www.lahdclehpermit.in; offline at DC office or through government registered tour operator in a group of two by paying the nominal fee. If the person is single, travel agents can help them in getting a permit. The Protected area permit is valid only for 7 days.

The foreign nationals traveling from Afghanistan, China, Pakistan, and Myanmar require PAP or RAP, approved only by the Ministry of Home Affairs to visit the inner line areas of Leh Ladakh, because of security reasons. One can also check the other PAP related questions here at the Ministry of Home Affairs website and the link is http://bit.ly/2waB7Jc.

Apart from this, if you are traveling to Leh via Manali, you need a permit to cross Rohtang Pass. So read all about the Rohtang pass permit here.

We hope this article will answer all the questions related to Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit and Protected area permits. If you still have any question please feel free to type it down in the comment section below.

You might be interested in checking our other series of Ladakh too:

Nubra Valley: The Valley of Flowers in Ladakh

A day at White Lake Tso Kar in Ladakh

Attractions on the Srinagar Leh Highway

Ladakh-The land of High Passes

6 must-visit Leh Ladakh Palaces before they disappear

A Walk with Indian Soldier at Kargil War Memorial

Leh Ladakh Road trip from Delhi – 13 days itinerary

Story of Gata Loops

Hemis Monastery: Biggest & Wealthiest Gompa in Ladakh

Sonamarg, Kashmir – The Golden Meadows of India

Bhuttico Kullu Shawls & Accessories – The Gift of Valley

Leh Palace

10 reasons why everyone should travel India

Dos and Donts for Ladakh Road Trip

Nubra Valley

The route for Nubra Valley:

Best time to Visit Nubra Valley

Expected Temperature

Charms of the Nubra Valley

Diskit Village

Reflections of the Nubra Valley

Sand Dunes, Bactrian Camels, Seabuckthorn forests and Silhouette shots of Nubra Valley

Mani stone walls of Hunder Village

The last Village – Turtuk

Nubra Valley Hotels / Accommodation

Points to Remember while traveling to Nubra Valley

Route for the White Lake Tso Kar

From Tso Moriri

From Leh

White Lake Tso Kar

Fauna at White Lake Tso Kar

Accommodation at White Lake Tso Kar

Tso Kar Eco Resort

“Talking with Nature”

Points to remember at White Lake Tso Kar

“Our Land is so barren and the passes so high, that only the best friends or the fiercest enemies come to visit us”

The route to Leh Ladakh from Delhi

Ladakh – The Land of High Passes

1. Zoji La

2. Namika La (Pillar of The Sky Pass)

3. Fotu La / Fatu La

4. Khardung La/ Khardongla (Pass of Lower Castle)

5. Chang La (Pass towards South)

6. Rezang La

7. Chagga La/Tsaka La

8. Namashang La

9. Polo Kongka La

10. TagLang La

11. Lachung La / Lungalacha La

12. Nakee La

13. Baralacha La

14. Rohtang La / Rohtam Pass (Pass of Corpuses)

What is a Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit?

Note:

Areas that require Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit

Note:

Procedure for Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit

Visiting DC office

Note:

Through Hotel or Agent

Online Permit

Note:

Validity of the Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit

Protected Area Permit (PAP) or Restricted Area Permit (RAP) for Foreigners

Travel Stories