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Haunted Bhangarh fort: Saga of love, obsession & curse

It was a winter afternoon, the sun was glooming on our heads, everything looked so golden in Rajasthan, India but we were ready to get soaked. We parked our vehicle near the huge Iron Gate and left to explore the true saga of haunted Bhangarh Fort.

Haunted Bhangarh Fort: Saga of love, obsession & Curse

After entering from one of the five gates of the fortified city, we kept on walking for a kilometer in the cobbled street decked with rubble shops on both sides. These multi-storied shops looked same and were giving the true picture of prosperous Bhangarh city during King Madho Singh reign. This whole market was known as Johari Bazaar. And there we saw the giant, horizontal structure jutting out from the mountains. Still a kilometer away, the fort looked grand just like others forts of Rajasthan, coming out from the Aravali hills. I turned and said oh! there stands the haunted Bhangarh fort? How can this be haunted? As we were still gazing towards the Fort, guide broke our silence.

First Glimpse of Haunted Bhangarh Fort from Johari Bazaar
First Glimpse of Haunted Bhangarh Fort from Johari Bazaar

I can recite you the tale how once the royal place became haunted and this title is now carried from generation to generation.

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Bhangarh Fort Stories

Story of Curse

The haunted Bhangarh fort was built by King Man Singh or Bhan Singh in the 17th century for his younger brother Madho Singh. When the king decided the location, he came to know about the Guru Balu Nath who used to live and meditate in the same hills. He went to meet and greet him, but the ascetic was really against the idea of building a fort and city there. After many persuasions and thought, saint granted permission on a condition, that the shadow of his palace should never fall on his residence. King agreed to the condition and the fort was constructed till 4th floor. The city kept on flourishing and Guru’s word was forgotten with time. Later the King Ajaib Singh added 3 more floors to the Palace and King Man Singh’s promise went to hay way. There came the curse and the dooming of the whole city. I wonder was Guru Bhalu Nath immortal and living for centuries!

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Locals believe the town was cursed to remain roofless. Even, if today a roof is built here, it collapses.

Story of Love & Obsession

Another fascinating story is of Beautiful Princess Ratnavati. It is believed that she was the most beautiful princess in Rajasthan. As soon as she turned 18, every Prince wanted to marry her including the Bhangarh Prince, Madho Singh. Princess Ratnavati refused to marry King Madho Singh, as he used to hunt animals. But the King was in deep love and he kept on pleading Princess for marrying him. Princess in return kept two conditions to the king. First being that he should stop hunting animals and second being, to build a palace in a way where the last sunray shouldn’t fall on it. In a year, King fulfilled both the wishes and Princess Ratnavati agreed to marry him. She became Queen of Bhangarh.

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The Queen Ratnavati was a Krishna follower, so there is a magnificent Gopinath Temple within the fort. There too are Shiva, Hanuman, Someshwar, Keshav Rai and Ganesh Temple within the fortified city.

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Apart from Beauty Queen Ratnavati was equally brainy too. After the wedding, she was learning tantric vidya from a famous magician Singhia. While teaching her, Tantric got attracted and wanted to achieve her by any means. One day, he spotted Queen’s maid buying attar (perfume) for Queen from the market. So, he thought to trick Ratnavati by doing Black magic on the perfume. But the Queen was herself well versed with all the magic’s tricks and the occult. She sensed the plan and just after opening the bottle; poured the whole of it on a boulder. Soon, the boulder rolled towards Singhia, crushing him into pieces. He died in few minutes but after giving a curse. He cursed that everyone will die who dwelt in the palace without taking rebirths. Soon, a year after the battle took place between Bhangarh and Ajabgarh, in which Queen Ratnavati died.

All these stories are fascinating but don’t have a solid ground. Except that in 1783 famine hit the place, which forced the people to leave their ever-growing shops and homes.

These both stories sent a chill down our spine. And further, the guide took us inside to explore the premises.

Haunted Bhangarh fort Entrance

Enter the fort and palace through a Hanuman Gate and huge gardens welcome you. On one side stands the Gopinath temple built in gold yellow stone, on 14 feet high plinth. And at the other end is a Shiva Temple with a huge Kund. Just before climbing the palace, there is a Kewda and Pandanus tree forest.

Entrance to haunted Bhangarh Fort
Entrance to haunted Bhangarh Fort

A small steep climb takes you to the entrance which seemed quite interesting. The Fort was divided into two halves and had 7 floors in total. But today only four of them are visible.

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Inside the Fort

The first floor has long corridors with the small rooms at each end. One of these rooms has been turned to a prayer house, to keep the unnatural powers away from the fort whereas the other room on the end goes several floors down to the Khazana (where gold and cash used to be kept). It surely looked scary and dangerous as it was dark and there was no light.

Rooms with several stairs, taking down to Khazana in the Haunted Bhangarh Fort
Rooms with several stairs, taking down to Khazana in the Haunted Bhangarh Fort

From there climb few zig-zag stairs and you will reach a floor with several rooms in the deserted state. Only one or half wall of the rooms are intact and makes you judge that this was a room year’s back. There seemed to be a huge bathing tub or pool in between for Queen. we could guess how luxurious it would have been in those days!

Rooms of Haunted Bhangarh Fort in deserted state

Bathing Tub of Rani Ratnavati in the haunted Bhangarh Fort
Bathing Tub of Rani Ratnavati in the haunted Bhangarh Fort

There is a Kali Devi Temple in one of these rooms and from there move towards the fort edge where you can see the birds-eye view of the whole fortified city.

Birds eye view of the fortified city from the Palace: Haunted Bhangarh fort
Birdseye view of the fortified city from the Palace

On the side of the hill top, there is a dome-shaped pavilion, which is believed to be habited by tantric Singhia.

Outside Bhangarh Fort

Just as you step out there are rows of similar shops on both sides of the street, known as Jauhari Bazar. Keep walking and you will see the remains of Nachan ki Haveli i.e Dancers Haveli and Purohit Ji Ki Haveli (Pundit’s Haveli). Before exiting the final gate there is a cenotaph of Hanuman Ji to keep all negative forces away.

Ruins of Nachan Ki Haveli (Dancers Haveli) in the Haunted Bhangarh Fort
Ruins of Nachan Ki Haveli (Dancers Haveli)

So, we found this fortified city wall has enclosed Palaces, temples, and Havelis in it. The haunted Bhangarh fort is one of its own kinds. We think it to be more of an architectural beauty of the medieval era rather than being haunted.

Someshwar Temple in Haunted Bhangarh Fort
Someshwar Temple in Haunted Bhangarh Fort

We have read about the paranormal activities which several people had faced in the fortified city but truly we didn’t feel any negativity here.

Instructions for Visiting Bhangarh Fort 

  1. Entry is prohibited before sunrise and after sunset, as there is a strong belief in some paranormal activities there.
  2. Cutting of Kewda trees is not allowed and they are government’s property.
  3. Entry of woodcutters, shepherds, and animals is strictly prohibited.
  4. Don’t go at the fort edges to avoid falls.
  5. Avoid littering in the premises as the government is making efforts to clean it and promote it for tourism.

Guide Map to Haunted Bhangarh Fort

How to Reach Bhangarh Fort

The haunted Bhangarh Fort is located on the borders of Sariska Tiger Reserve, in the Aravali hills, of Alwar district; Rajasthan.

It lies 235 kilometers from Delhi, 89 kilometers from Alwar, 86 kilometers from Jaipur and 28 kilometers from Sariska. The haunted fort can be reached via car, train or local bus. The nearest railway station is in Jaipur (53 km) and Dausa (22 Kms).

Condition of Roads from Delhi: Excellent

Total Time from Delhi: 5- 6 Hrs

Ideal time to visit: Winters from November to February

Related: Travel Guide to Jaipur Pink City

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Interesting Fact about Haunted Bhangarh Fort

There is almost negligible settlement around the fortified city. Locals believe that if they construct roof of their houses, it will collapse. So, many of the houses are without the roof or if there are roofs; they are mostly thatched roofs.

The Bhangarh Village is also known as Roofless Village of Rajasthan.

If you found it interesting, do share it with your friends and family.

Haunted Bhangarh Fort

 

The 2017 Travel Stories: Flashback

The year 2018 has already begun and our travel tales and road trips too. But we can’t start the new tales without reviewing the tales of the year 2017.  So, this post is all about the 2017 travel stories, just as we have the travel book for the year 2016.

We started our travel and lifestyle blog AllGudThings in September 2016 without thinking how the things will move for us and will we actually survive in this blogging race. And look today we are surviving and have come this far, writing 2017 travel stories, and are much positive for the year 2018.

2017 Travel Stories

The year 2017 was like a roller coaster for us. We bought our house, reached our dream destinations, did several trips both personal and professional, learned so much new in blogging and on the other side fought with medical issues and lost our dear ones in between. So, it was a year where we saw both highs and lows. But as Lord Buddha quotes “Without rain, nothing grows, learn to embrace the storms of your life”; so we accepted every up and down graciously and kept on moving.

In the year 2017, we never targeted where we wanted to see ALLGUDTHINGS but now we are clearer. We have set up our targets for 2018 to write more strategically, be more social and learn to monetize the blog in a better way. And the travel stories of 2017 are epic, so let’s have a look at them.

January 2017

Snow Trip with Parents to Shimla

Just after welcoming 2017 and shifting to our own place, we took a break and did a personal road trip to beautiful Shimla. The colonial town was painted in white by nature and we saw our parents living their childhood. The rich heritage & culture of Shimla introduced us to a Himachali scarf known as Dhatu or Rahide. Check about Dhatu here: Shimla Trip in style with Dhatu as a fashion accessory.

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February – March 2017

Visit to the Highest Dam in India – Tehri Dam

In the last week of February, we visited Koteshwar and Tehri Dam for professional work. The holiday started after work and it continued until the first week of March. From Tehri, we took a detour to visit Uttarkashi in Uttarakhand, which proved to be a lot more than the entrance to the Char Dhams of India. Further, the trip continued to Harsil, Gangotri and ending at Mussorie.

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The whole trip was an experience in itself as we visited one of the Char Dhams, saw second time snowfall in a row, learned about Mani stones and for the first time stayed in the hostel. You must check the Backpackers must carry essentials for a Hostel stay here.

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April 2017

An hour of Patriotism at Hussainiwala Border

In April 2017 we visited our home in Punjab and for the first time we, saw the flag retreat ceremony at Hussainiwala Border, Firozpur. It was an hour of Patriotism, filled with deep emotions where just a white line and gate demarcated our country India from Pakistan.

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May 2017

Road Trip to Badrinath Dhams and the Last Indian Mana Village

In May 2017, our parents were with us, so we planned another personal road trip to the sacred temple Badrinath Dham. From here itself we further visited the last village near Indo China border Mana Village and checked out the lush green skiing slopes of Auli in summers.

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This was another remarkable and memorable trip of the year.

June 2017

June was the one month when we were actually at home and were fiddling with the ups and downs around.

July – August 2017

Dream Trip to Leh Ladakh

After a lot of stress, we really needed a long break. So, we did a 13 day long Leh Ladakh road trip from Delhi. Ladakh is also known as the land of high Passes. We took the circuit road trip at our own pace without rushing to the destinations. We checked the attractions on Srinagar Leh highway, explored hidden Leh Ladakh palaces, walked and talked with the soldier at Kargil War Memorial, got lost in the Leh Palace and tranquilized in the serenity of Hemis Monastery.

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We saw Bactrian Camels and reflection of the Himalayas in the Nubra valley, did off-roading and slept in tents near high altitude lakes like Tso Kar, Pangong Tso, and Tso Moriri.

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Do remember, you need Inner Line Permit for entering the sensitive zones in Leh Ladakh.

September 2017

Heritage Walk in the Historical Town, Mahabalipuram

After a year of blogging, we did our first FAM trip to Chariot Beach resort and explored Mahabalipuram, in Tamil Nadu to its best. The UNESCO monuments, monolithic structures, and caves, shore temple left us completely stunned with its beauty.

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October 2017

October the month of festivals in India, we decided to take a break from travels and celebrate each one of them at our new place, with our parents.

November 2017

Road trip to the colonial town: Mukteshwar, Uttarakhand

In November 2017, we did another FAM trip with Club Ten Pine Lodge to the colonial Mukteshwar town in Uttarakhand. We got lost in the beauty of Himalayan peaks during sunrise and sunsets; & trekked to explore the hidden gem – Bhalu Gaad waterfall.

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December 2017

Road Trip to Kasauli & Rajasthan

The last month of the year is always special as it is Tashi‘s birthday and we celebrated it in the hills of Kasauli. The last month also put us into the thoughts of our activities and achievements for the previous year. But simultaneously we also start deciding the place to celebrate the coming New Year. And, this year we decided to end 2017 and welcome 2018, in Rajasthan exploring the Sariska Tiger Reserve and one of the most haunted places in India – Bhangarh Fort. The stories are yet to come, so tuned.

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Conclusion: 2017 Travel Stories

That was our 2017 travel stories. It seems like a year was dedicated to the road trips especially to the hills traversing Himachal, Uttarakhand and Leh Ladakh. Overall, we did 9 trips, including personal, professional and FAM trips extending from 4 days to 15 days covering multiple destinations. We are really grateful as we got good health & the opportunity to make these trips and write 2017 travel stories. We wish to travel more and continue the travel stories in 2018.

Thanks for taking out the time to read our travel stories. Have the wonderful year 2018 ahead…
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Hemis Monastery: Biggest & Wealthiest Gompa in Ladakh

When you are in the land of Lamas; how can you miss visiting their abodes. Yes! The monasteries; which are monk’s schools, homes and the place where they take religious vows. Imagine, some of the Lama’s spend their whole lives here. Leh Ladakh; apart from being the land of high passes is also dotted with innumerable ancient Buddhist Monasteries. Each monastery here is an architectural marvel either jutting from the mountain face or on the top. They have deep-rooted Buddhist & Tibetan religious associations. So, the monastery hopping circuit in Leh Ladakh has become an important part of Ladakh Tourism. And here in this post, we will be taking a tour of the biggest & wealthiest Gompa i.e. Hemis Monastery of Ladakh.

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Hemis Monastery Courtyard

The Hemis Monastery Ladakh

The Hemis Gompa, being the biggest and wealthiest is not simply perching on the mountaintop or on the roadside. It is hidden in the deep gorge, 49 km from Leh, completely encircled in between the mountains. The mountaintop around the gorge is believed to be the place, where the Lord Padmasambhava or Rimpoche had once meditated. Being hidden the Hemis monastery, remained unharmed, unscathed during the wars and became wealthiest of all. And today, it owns more than half of the land in Ladakh.

Also Read: 6 must-visit Leh Ladakh Palaces before they  disappear

How to reach Hemis Monastery

From Leh, cross Shey and Thiksey Monastery, further keep driving along the river Indus, towards Manali Leh highway for 39 km till Village Karu. Then cross-river Indus via cantilever bridge and head in between the mountain trails till Village Chushod, which is almost 10 kilometers. Then cross the green oasis lined with poplar and willow trees and you will see the colorful Hemis Monastery, jutting straight from the mountains.

Way to Hemis Monastery

The colorful stepped Hemis Gompa is surrounded by mustard fields, which adds colors to the surrounding barren mountains. Just near to the monastery is the Hemis high altitude national park which is home to the endangered snow leopard.

On the way to Hemis Monastery

Timings

8 am to 1 pm; 2 pm to 6 pm. Lunch timing is between 1-2 pm.

Entry Fee

Rs 50/-

Best Time to visit Hemis

June – September. Hemis festival takes place in between June – July month

History of Hemis Monastery

The Hemis Monastery is quite an ancient institution and has its roots dating back to 11th century. However, it was re-established in 1630 by the illustrious King Sengge Namgyal who had also built the famous Leh Palace.

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The renovation of the Hemis Gompa was carried by King under the assistance of the famous Tibetan Priest Stag-Tsang-Ras-Pa, the disciple of Drukpa / Drugpa School.  So, under the rule of the Namgyal dynasty, the monastery flourished and till the day it is flourishing and is managed by Drukpa Lineage or Red Hat sect of Buddhism.

Inside Hemis Gompa

After purchasing the ticket, climb few stairs and you will see the vibrant colored typical Tibetan Buddhist entrance welcoming you.

Entrance to one of the biggest and wealthiest gompas of Ladakh: Hemis Monastery
Entrance to Hemis Gompa

Remove your shoes and on your left stands the Hemis museum. In the center, there is a huge courtyard where the world famous Hemis festival or mask festival takes place. The long colorful corridors run along the courtyard and in the center are three sacred poles with the fluttering flags. Just don’t stop here as the interiors inside and views from to are really impressive too.

Corridors around courtyard of Hemis Monastery
Corridors around courtyard of Hemis Gompa

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The Hemis Monastery is divided into two – the assembly hall known as Dukhang and the Temple known as Tshogkgang. The main temple where the daily prayers happen houses the huge golden statue of Lord Buddha, sacred Thangkas, and Stupas embedded with precious and semi-precious stones.

Lord Buddha Statue in Hemis Monastery Temple
Lord Buddha Statue in Hemis Monastery

The temple on the first floor houses the large golden statue of Guru Rimpoche. Corridors around the whole complex are decorated with the frescoes or mural paintings depicting the wheel of life, lords of four quarters and the Buddhist prayer wheels.

Lord Padmasambhava Temple in Hemis Monastery
Lord Padmasambhava in Hemis Monastery

The Hemis Museum houses a large collection of historical Buddhist Thangkas, weapons, carriers etc. Inside there is a huge library that has an inspiring collection of Tibetan books, manuscripts, and relics. Just at the ground floor of the museum is a souvenir shop selling various Ladakh magnets, T-shirts, books etc. Photography is completely prohibited inside the museum. Indeed, lockers are provided before entering the museum to keep your valuables safe.

Hemis Museum inside Hemis Monastery

Hemis Monastery Terrace

Before leaving the Monastery complex, climb up to the terrace to get some. mesmerizing views. You will see the stacked Himalayas, enclosing and protecting the monastery from all sides with the green oasis in between.

View from Hemis Monastery Terrace

The temple complex is not only colorful & beautiful from the front end and inside but the top too is artistically crafted with colorful contrasting glass in the window panes.

Hemis Monastery Temple Top from Terrace

And the most striking of all is, another Lord Buddha statue mounted on the front hilltop of Hemis Gompa. We really wonder how they might have carried it to that height and how difficult the mounting would had been.

Lord Buddha Statue on Hilltop
Lord Buddha Statue on Hilltop

Hemis Festival

The Hemis festival also known as Mask or Cham festival takes place in the Hemis Monastery courtyard; to celebrate the birth anniversary of Lord Padmasambhava. It happens on the 10th day of Lunar Tibetan Calendar, usually between June – July. The celebration lasts for a complete 3 days.

Mask Dance at Hemis Festival in Hemis Monastery
Source: TripSavvy

Hemis festival stirs the complete courtyard with its pageantry. Monks, Nuns, lamas are dressed to perfection wearing heavy brocade gowns with masks. They dance with cymbals, drums, and trumpets portraying the win of good over evil. Everything is colorful during the festival and people rejoice with the local traditional food and drinks. The annual markets are set up around the monastery which sells local goods. The sacred 12-meter long Thangka, largest of all Thangkas in Ladakh is unfurled from the top floor after every 12 years.

Stupas studded with Precious and semi precious stones in the Hemis Monastery Temple
Stupas studded with Precious and semi-precious stones in the Hemis Monastery

Points to Remember

  • The best season to visit Hemis Gompa is between June – September. If you are planning to be the part of the Hemis festival, then check the exact dates before planning your Leh Ladakh road trip
  • Hemis Monastery provides accommodation to the guests. The alternate is guesthouses and homestays in the nearby village
  • Do try lip-smacking fried rice, noodles, Thupkas and some local food at the shack outside monastery
  • Buy some local handicrafts as souvenirs to take back home
  • Make sure to respect the monastery culture and avoid photography wherever it is prohibited. Rotate the prayer wheels mounted near the courtyard.Prayer Wheels at Hemis Monastery
  • Talk to locals and be part of the celebrations to know more about the local; traditions and culture
  • Don’t restrict yourself to the courtyard. There are many picturesque locations on the terrace too.
  • Check the huge golden Buddha statue mounted on the front hilltop. %CODE1%
  • Monastery houses more than 500 monks. It is one of the largest spiritual and meditative learning centers. So, enthusiasts from all over the world travel here, to learn the basics of Buddhism and practice the life of the monk.

Hemis Monastery, The Biggest & wealthiest Gompa in Ladakh

If the Hemis Gompa is an epitome, then the trail leading to the Hemis Monastery is no less. It is a complete adventurous zone. The visit to a monastery is not just about the Cham festival, we say it is equally inviting during all the accessible months. It is a marvelous grandeur steeped in rich history, heritage and mythology. Moreover, the entire aura of the place is spellbinding.
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Have you visited Hemis Monastery in Ladakh? Do you feel the same as us?

Other articles you can Check from Leh Ladakh series are:

Leh Ladakh Road trip from Delhi

A walk with Indian soldier at Kargil War Memorial

Nubra Valley: The Valley of Flowers in Ladakh

A day at White Lake Tso Kar in Ladakh

Attractions on the Srinagar Leh Highway

Ladakh-The land of High Passes

All you need to know about Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permit

Story of Gata Loops

Dos and Donts for Ladakh Road Trip

Hemis Monastery: Biggest & Wealthiest Gompa in Ladakh

Sonamarg, Kashmir – The Golden Meadows of India

Bhuttico Kullu Shawls & Accessories – The Gift of Valley

Leh Ladakh Palaces

10 reasons why everyone should travel India

The colored Tibetan Prayer Stones – Mani Stones

Bhalu Gaad Waterfall near Mukteshwar, Uttarakhand

India is a home to some of the magnificent waterfalls. The falls are torrents which can carve, shape or break the rocks, smash the trees and logs coming in between to make the way for gushing water but we still feel they are the most captivating marvels of nature. The sight of the flowing crystal clear water, thundering roaring sound; not only brighten up eyes and soul but makes body relaxed and rejuvenated after the tiring day too. On our recent trip to Mukteshwar town, we visited one such newly discovered, endearing fall known as the Bhalu Gaad waterfall.

Bhalu Gaad Waterfall near Mukteshwar, UttarakhandThe Bhalu Gaad fall is a 60 feet high fall from the undiscovered source. It is a mixture of horseshoe and plunge shaped waterfall. The water flows continuously throughout the year maintaining contact with the rock bed before turning to Plunge at the bottom. Indeed, the waterfall completely turns to plunge shaped when the water flow increases during the rainy season. Being recently discovered it is cleaner & less touristy as compared to other waterfalls of Uttarakhand.

But slowly the Mukteshwar town is gaining attraction, and the fall will enlist in the attractions of Mukteshwar. There is rainbow seen at the bottom of Bhallu Gaad Waterfall, so locals name it a Rainbow waterfall.

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Description

The word Bhalu Gaad comes from two words Bhalu and Gaad where the word Bhalu means Bear and Gaad means stream in the Kumaoni language. So, it is believed to be a good location for Bear sightseeing. But luckily or unluckily we didn’t spot any during our trail walk.

How to reach Bhalu Gaad Waterfall

The Bhalu Gaad waterfall lies 10 kilometers from Mukteshwar town and 5 kilometers from the Club Ten pine lodge Mukteshwar. To reach the falls, drive from town to village Dhari. Park your vehicle in the open area near a roadside shack and from there trek for almost 2 kilometers into the woods.

Crossing Stream and trails to Bhalu Gaad Waterfall

The hike is a beautiful walk through the dense jungle with continuous ascents, and descents. The river flows along the trail and birds chirp throughout making the whole walk and place idyll. We crossed three streams in between the trek and at the end, there are huge rock boulders, which need to be climbed up and down to touch the natural clear pool filled with chilling water.

Stream on the way to Bhalu Gaad Waterfall in Uttarakhand

The total time to complete one side trek lasts from 45 minutes to an hour.

Tips for Visiting Bhalu Gaad Waterfall

  1. The hike is of an easy level, considering you need to cross the stream and climb rock in between.
  2. Ideally, visit the fall only between sunrises to sunset.
  3. There are no shacks near the fall, which is really good. So, carry your water bottle and snacks along. And remember not to litter around. Bring your wrappers and bottles back, to keep the fall and trails clean.
  4. The guide is available at the shack at Rs. 200/-. Hire him only, if you don’t want to catch the wrong trails and reach the unexplored villages.
  5. Entry to the Bhalu Gaad waterfall is free and the site can be accessed throughout the year.

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Overall, the walk to newly discovered Bhalu Gaad waterfall is adventurous and it is a bird lover paradise too. We would have loved camping and watching stars near the fall, provided it was allowed.

If you like Bhalu Gaad Waterfall, please share it with your family and friends.

Bhalu Gaad Waterfall in Uttarakhand

Also Read, post on Mukteshwar Town.