Category Archives: Himachal

Himachal, India, Tourism, Travel

Tabo- The National Historic Treasure of India

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Around 970 AD, there was a hidden, unknown mountain face in Lahaul -Spiti district of Himachal Pradesh, India. This mountain face at 10,760 feet was traced and occupied by few imperial souls – “Lamas” who wanted to practice Buddhism away from the materialistic life in the absolute peace. The simple men with the simple needs in life carved down their dwelling and meditation halls in this mountain face. Not only that; they further decorated their walls with murals and carvings. So, that’s how the mountain face got established and named as village of Cavemen, Caves or Tabo. Just beneath the foot of this cave mountains stand 1000 years old, holy monastery known as the Tabo Monastery or the “Ajanta of the Himalayas”.

Tabo - The National Historic Treasure of India

About Village Tabo

Tabo, a well-known Buddhist Pilgrimage today; is a green oasis in the middle land Spiti, just like village Nako. It lies 155 kilometers from Rekong Peo and can be reached in 5-6 hours. The village is a flat bowl shaped green valley enclosed by arid mountains from all sides. The fluttering Tibetan prayer flags, chortens and mani stones around the village are a mark of the Buddhism vibes and establishment. The greenery around the village marks they are agriculturalist and have good produce of pea, cabbage, apples etc

Entrance of village Tabo in Spiti Valley

The village Tabo has a total population of 500 and few houses. It is another Himalayan glory with lanes and by lanes. These lanes are lined by typical Spitian houses made of mud and stones with orchids around whereas others few have turned their homes to multi storied home stays and guest house. Actually, we were shocked to see how the things have changed here in 3-4 years. It seemed, that the village had been a part of time capsule advancement.

Lanes and By-lanes in Tabo Village, Spiti Valley

Anyways, we reached Tabo late evening from Rekong Peo which lies in Kinnaur, when the temperatures had already dipped. So, without wasting much time, we opted for a short walk to breathe the fresh air of beautiful village Tabo. Around 6:00 pm, most of the village seemed slept, market was shut, except few tea, coffee shops where 3-4 wrinkled, sunburn men were chatting. Then suddenly one of them asked -why are you here in winters, very few people travel this time and only few places are open. We smiled and conveyed him that we wanted to see the white Spiti Valley. We are prepared for the weather and have arranged a place to stay.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BhgEMiPnUh9/?taken-by=suruchimittal

Further, we continued walking for 15 more minutes. Then saw some unfriendly dogs following us, which scared us out and we turned back to our Homestay. After chatting for hours with owners and having scrumptious local meal, we retired off to bed.

Sightseeing at Tabo

Next day was set to explore the attractions of Tabo. The small village has not many attractions. But is is well known for 1000-year-old monastery and the Caves. We felt the place itself is a attraction.

  1. Tabo Monastery (Timings: 6am to 5pm)

The Tabo Monastery also known as Tabo Chos –Khor monastery is one of the fascinating archeological complex and is proposed to be under world UNESCO heritage site list. It too is one of the oldest and pious Monasteries in the Trans Himalayan range. The monastery was initially set as advanced Buddhist learning center and until day it has maintained the Buddhist legacy with utter purity.

Tabo Monastery Entrance, Spiti Valley

The holy monastery complex is a perfect example of Indo–Tibetan art. It is walled from all sides by the tall mud walls and have arid mountain in backdrop, making it look the part of mountain itself. The complex houses 9 temples, 23 chortens (without adornments), a monk’s chamber and the nuns chamber inside. The temples inside the complex are adorned with intricate murals, frescoes, paintings and Thangkas depicting the life story of Buddha, which we really failed to understand.

Old Tabo Monastery complex - Spiti Valley
Old Tabo Monastery complex

In 1975, the Kinnaur earthquake severely damaged the old monastery. Today, Monastery stands erect but in despair state and the paintings are fading. The ongoing restoration work is under ASI (Archaeological sites of India), to preserve it as a National Treasure of India.

Mani Stones around Chortens in old Tabo Monastery
Mani Stones around Chortens in old Tabo Monastery

Just adjacent to the old stands a new Monastery and huge Tabo Gompa, which resembles exactly the Gompa’s of other monasteries of Spiti Valley.

Tabo Gompa

  1. Tabo Caves

The other fascinating attraction is the Tabo caves which can be reached after a good steep hike. The caves overlook the green village and flowing Spiti River. Not one, but several in number, these caves have narrow small openings to enter and there are rooms with in the rooms. The caves were in severe dilapidated state and some of these looked almost rudimentary.

Tabo meditation Caves

These are believed to be the mediation chambers of Monks and some are still used till day. We found one of them had a door too, which according to our guide was put recently by some villager, quoting the respective cave to be his ancestral place. Interesting!

Village Tabo view while hiking for caves
Top View of Village Tabo

  1. Tabo Helipad

Tabo Helipad lies exactly on one end of the village in between the mountains. Occasionally Helipad is used as a helipad whereas at rest times it is a playground for cricket and other adventure activities.

  1. Walkthrough the narrow lanes of village and to the river

We feel there is something in the air of Tabo – the good vibes, the positive energy and happiness. It has to be, as we are in the land of Gods. So, walk through the narrow lanes, talk to locals, say Julley and fill yourself with the positivism. Indeed, we feel the village itself is quite picturesque.

Tabo Village in Spiti Valley

  1. Star Gazing and Night Photography

Tabo and the whole Spiti Valley is a wonderful place for night photography, only if the sky is clear. So, go for it if the sky is starry. You will surely get some wonderful shots. We couldn’t try our hands because it was cloudy and snowing.

Apart this, Tabo is a base to several treks and opt for them only with the guides.

 Places to Stay 

The Village boosts about several lodges, guest houses and home stays. We have been to Tabo thrice  and have stayed at some of these. The best one’s we recommend are Phuntsok’s /Baba’s Homestay and the Tabo Monastery guest house.

Phuntsok’s Homestay lives perfectly to the name of homestay. The family treats one like a family member and will provide the utmost comfort. Homestay is operational both during summers and winters. The rooms are well furnished and have attached washrooms. Just in winters, be prepared to use the common dry pit toilets, which probably one has to use everywhere in Spiti during winters. (Charges per person per day – around Rs.1500/-).

Kitchen of Phuntsok Homestay at Tabo Village

Tabo Monastery’s guest house rooms is an apt choice for summers. These mud rooms come with attached washroom and are super warm and cozy. In winters, the guest house is usually closed. Also, while staying with them do try their delicious Tibetan and Chinese food. (Double Bed room – Charges per day – Rs.500/-).

Food at Tabo

There are several cafés and bakeries in Tabo serving various types of cuisines. Our recommendation is try one meal at Monastery’s café. Munch on their Thupka and freshly cooked Momos.

How to reach Tabo

Tabo can be reached only via road from Shimla (365 kilometers) or Manali (150 kilometers). In summers, its accessible from both sides. So, we always recommend to do a circuit trip whereas in winter, the too and fro journey can be done only from Shimla side, because of the closure of Kunzum La and Rohtang La.

Read about: Ladakh – The Land of Passes

Advised route for summers (Circuit trip) – Delhi – Chandigarh – Manali – Kaza – Tabo – Nako – Rekong Peo – Rampur – Shimla – Zirakpur – Delhi or vice versa

Route for winters– Delhi – Chandigarh – Shimla – Rampur – Rekong Peo – Nako – Tabo-kaza

Expected temperature

Weather is highly unpredictable in Tabo. If at one time its sunny, other time it will be cloudy accompanied by rains and even snowfall.

Summers:  lasts from May to August or maximum mid-September. The temperature ranges from -5 degree Celsius at night to 20 degrees Celsius during day.

Winters: lasts from September to April and the temperature ranges from 4 degrees Celsius during day to -45 degree Celsius during night. Winters are extremely harsh.

Best Time to Go: The best time to travel is from May to September. If you want to see white land, then go in winters between December to march.

Tabo - The National Historic Treasure of India

Points to Remember

  • Tabo lies in rain shadow bearing zone but the temperature changes here, unexpectedly. So do carry some woolens.
  • Do spend one night in Tabo
  • Respect the local culture and religion
  • Buy a souvenir from monastery, if possible. The collected money is used for the maintenance of monastery.
  • Photography inside the monastery is prohibited to prevent damage to the artwork. Please do respect that,
  • If you are planning to travel during winters, remember the options for food and lodging are very limited and fix your stay before leaving.
  • Multiple ATM’s have opened up in Tabo, but don’t expect all of them to be in working state.
  • Till day, only BSNL connections work in Tabo
  • There is no fuel station at Tabo. The nearest one is either at Rekong Peo or Kaza.
  • At Tabo, Earlier electricity used to be there for limited hours but during our recent visit in January 2018, electricity was there for whole day as well night.
  • Most important do not litter the Himalayas. Keep them clean.

So, overall the travel to this Holy land is a bliss and it leaves you with the intriguing thoughts and questions.

If you need any more info, to plan you summer as well winter trip, please do leave a comment in the comment box. We will be happy to answer them.

Himachal, India, Tourism, Travel

Padam Palace: The Royal Palace in Rampur Bushahr

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Usually, while traveling to Spiti Valley from Delhi, everyone makes their first stop at Shimla, and then head forward to Kalpa or Sangla Valley skipping Rampur Bushahr. But somehow the things were planned differently for us during our Spiti Valley winter trip. We got late while finishing our work assignment with Aamod Resort Shoghi, so planned a halt midway at Rampur Bushahr, Himachal Pradesh. The unknown destinations and unplanned halts always take you to explore the hidden gems i.e. what proved true for us and we found the hidden architectural marvel Padam Palace, also known as Rampur Palace at Rampur Bushahr.

Padam Palace- Royal Palace at Rampur Bushahr

About Rampur Bushahr

The town Rampur Bushahr lies 128 Kilometres from Shimla and is the last capital of Bushahr dynasty. The Bashahr dynasty originally used to rule from Kamru Fort near Sangla in Kinnaur and Shimla region. Later they moved their base to Sarahan and some 100 years back to Rampur Bushahr, along the beautiful River Sutlej. Interestingly, if you go by mythology and legends, the dynasty trace their roots back to Lord Krishna’s family. And this belief comes true when you can see lots of temples in the region.

Entrance to Rampur Bushahr town: Padam Palace

Rampur Bushahr spreads longitudinally covering the mountain slopes. It is guarded by Lord Hanuman’s Idol at the entrance, from Shimla side and below flows the gushing River Sutlej. The town seems to be blessed and quite prosperous.

Lord Hanuman statue at Rampur Bushahr: Padam Palace

History of Padam Palace

In the middle of the city, near bus stand, just adjacent to the Nau Nabh heritage hotel stands the walled, exalted Padam Palace. The Palace and town once served as the winter capital of Princely state Bushair but today it is just a private residence of the royal family and Chief Minister Virbhadra Singh.

Panoramic view of Padam Palace

The foundation stone of Padam Palace was laid down in 1919 by Raja Padam Singh, who was 122nd King in the league of Bushahr dynasty and the father of Virbhadra Singh. The construction spanned over 6 years and got completed in 1925.

Padam Palace Complex

Just as we stepped inside the huge Iron Gate from Hotel Nau Nabh, there was a huge sprawling complex with a lot of green lawns. At one end of the lawn, there is a colorful glass and wood building known as Sheesh Mahal, in the center stood octagonal dome-shaped structure in a turquoise blue color known as Machhkandi. Whereas on the other end, stretched a building in ash grey color with huge vertical pillars, known as Padam Palace. The dark shades against the green background and blue sky truly represented that the building has grown more elegant with time.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bg0jKj8H5iv/?hl=en&taken-by=suruchimittal

The eight-sided dome-shaped wooden structure in the lawn, Machhkandi was the place from where King interacted with his public. The structure is painted in blue, has a lot of carvings and figurines and four entrances. We totally fell in love with its architecture and couldn’t resist climbing it. From all the eight angles, the views were different but equally enchanting.

Machhkandi at Padam Palace

Machhkandi from different angle at Padam Palace, Rampur

After entering I looked up at the dome and was astonished to see the colors, symbols, and figurines on it. The engraved symbols and figures were Om, Ram, Name of the king, state, fish, flowers etc.

The dome of Machhkandi at Padam Palace, Rampur Bushahr

Exact logic of having them in the dome is still not clear to us but what we could relate is that Machhkandi was treated like a temple and the King or decision maker sitting there was like a God. So these positive symbols might be imparting him the wisdom to make the fair decision.

Dome decorated with symbols and figurines - Padam Palace

The Palace

As we stepped down the stairs of Machkkandi, there started the horizon of horizontally spread elegant Palace. The Palace has a huge facade with symmetric arches and geometrically designed ceiling with green and red glass patches in between. The chocolate brown colored wooden carvings on the first floor, crowned by reddish brown gables and multi-gabled bandstands clearly depicted the architecture skills of craftsmen. The tapered wooden screen on the first floor has floral designs and figures to partially admit light without exposing inside.

Wooden Carving on first floor of Padam Palace, Rampur

In the whole structure, the major attraction was the alluring blue front door with a lot of glass work on it. Few glasses in center of the door were colored and tinted. We couldn’t enter inside as it was closed but still it left us completely stunned from outside. I peeped inside through the glass and could see a huge hall with minimum furniture and colored windows/ doors on all sides. The sun rays through these tinted glasses were making wonderful geometrical impressions. On each side of the door, was placed a statue of Hindu idols -Lord Ganesha and Lord Balaji.

Blue Door at Padam Palace. Rampur Bushahr

 

Another, striking feature of the palace is completely No use of cement anywhere. Instead, the black gram paste was used for cementing the stone blocks together.

Padam Palace Facade

Just in front of the Palace main door is a huge octagonal shaped fountain, which was empty and filled with dirt. But we are sure when in the run; the fountain might be adding the charm to the whole complex.

How to reach Padam Palace

Padam Palace lies 128 Kilometres from Shimla and can be reached by bus, cab or private car in 3 hours. If commuting by bus, get down at bus stand and walk meters0 meters right and you will be at Padam Palace.

Entry Fees – There is no entry fee to see the Palace. You need prior permissions to visit inside.

Total Time to see Palace– Half -hour to 2 hrs

 Where to stay in Rampur Bushahr

There are several accommodation options in the town from budget, luxury to heritage hotels. But, if you want to live like Royals, then stay at Nau Nabh Heritage Hotel for a day. We will be writing a complete post on it, soon.

Best time to Visit Rampur Bushahr

Rampur Bushahr can be visited throughout the year. Summers are pleasant and they last from March to June. Monsoon starts from June and continues till September.  September to November too is a good time to explore the place but is cold. Expect cold and snowy winters from December to March in Rampur. Sometimes even roads get closed, so check the status before planning your trip.

However, the best time to visit town is during Lavi festival; which is held every year between 11th to 14th November. Lavi Fair is one of the biggest fairs in North India. It adds life to the town and is a major talk of the area.

Other Attractions in Rampur Bushahr

Apart Padam Palace, one can visit Raghunath Temple, Ayodhya Temple, Narsingh temple, Dumgir Budh Temple, Dutt Nagar, Nirath, Nirmand and Asia’s largest Hydro project Nathpa Jhakri power plant.

Padam Palace, Rampur Bushahr

For us, the visit to the Padam Palace was like a time warp to the era of the Kings and Queens, where they lived the royal lives and were the decision makers. Imagine, still, the people of Rampur Bushahr, greet Cheif minister, Virbhadra Singh as Rajaji (King).

 

 

Himachal, India, Tourism, Travel

View of Chau Chau Kang Nilda from Fossil Village Langza

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Millions of years back, India as we know it today, drifted towards Asia in the Tethys Ocean. Upon collision, the silt from the ocean bed rose and gave way to the majestic Himalayas, and there evolved the Spiti Valley. In these valleys there stands a village known as Fossil Village Langza. Walk through the village and you will find a surplus of marine animals and plant fossils.

The Village Langza lies immediately at the base of Chau Chau Kang Nilda peak (20,679 feet), near village Kaza of Spiti Valley, India. The peak acts as a sole water source for the village, throughout the year. So, every summer some villager goes upstream to check the water stream route to be unobstructed and clear. From there started the interesting tale of Chau Chau Kang Nilda Peak.

Chau Chau Kang Nilda Peak from Fossil Village Langza

Chau Chau means Young Princess, Kang means snow-capped mountain, Ni means sun and Da mean dawn. So, this princess snow-capped mountain shines both during sun and moon. It is also known as “Guan Nelda” or “Blue Moon in the sky”.

Check: Spiti Valley in Photos

Story of Chau Chau Kang Nilda Peak

Every summer in order to check the water supply and as a tradition, one villager by turn had to go upstream, and this time the work was given to a lazy flute player Landup. Without heart and lazing around here and there, he went off to the base of the mountain to check the stream. After checking, he sat at the base of the mountain and started playing his flute. Whenever he used to play he used to get lost in his own world and the similar thing happened this time too.

Fossil Village Langza in Spiti Valley, India

As he finished playing, he opened his eyes and saw an ethereal beauty standing right in front of him. With a broad smile and transfixed gaze, she requested him to play it again. He was so impressed by her beauty that he couldn’t refuse and started playing again.

And then she said – “I am Chau Chau Kang Nilda fairy princess. Come here often to play this tune and I would love listening to it”

He turned back home and started waiting for the next summer to go back upstream. He went every summer upstream and played flute there. With following seasons princess and Landup fell in love with each other. But the fairy laid a condition that their love had to be kept secret and for that Landup agreed.

One winter evening when Landup was drunk and lazing around, his wife asked him to go and do some work. Listening, this he got furious and replied that it is better to be with Chau Chau Kang Nilda fairy than to be with you. His wife ignored him thinking to be totally drunk and asked him to stop dreaming.

Night Shot of Chau Chau Kang Nilda Peak from Fossil Village Langza

Next morning, Landup woke up covered in boils and pain. He remembered the last night conversation and fairy words but couldn’t do anything because of extreme winters. So, he started waiting for summers to come. As summers approached, he ran to meet his fairy love. He played the flute, called her, confessed his love and mistake; but nothing worked. Fairy never turned down to see him. Indeed after that every time he went close to the mountain, the weather turned nasty and cloudy.

Even today, it is believed that whenever a man tries to climb Chau Chau Nilda Peak, the weather turns bad. Fairy’s wound has still not recovered. She is still nursing her heart and will never let any man come nearby.

If that is the one mythological story then there are true stories of mountain expeditions too. The Chau Chau Nilda Peak was first climbed in 1939 by James Roberts, who crossed Spiti from Kullu.

Fossil Village Langza

The fossil Village Langza in Spiti Valley is located at height 4400 meters or 14,500 feet, 16 kilometers from village Kaza. The place is guarded by beautiful peak on one side and the huge Buddha statue on others side, to keep the evil spirits away. The bowl-shaped flattened valleys around the village are divine, and completely untouched.

Fossil Village Langza at the base of Chau Chau Kang Nilda Peak

A small remote village usually cut off from the civilization has just 35 houses and a total population of 150 people. It is divided into two parts- Upper Langza, known as Langza Gongma and Lower Langza is called Lnagza Yongma. The village remains snow covered in winters whereas turns completely into green pastures in summers.

Fossil Village Langza
Source

The white and red painted mud houses here are typical Spitian mud houses. They look small and widely spread from each other but are equally spacious inside. The houses are warm, cozy and they gel well with the surroundings. The roofs are covered with a lot of thatch and fodder for insulation. Every house kitchen of fossil village Langza has installed Angithis to beat the extreme cold temperatures. The kitchens have small cloth covered entrances and floors are decorated with colorful yak mats to keep them warm.

Tip: Do remember to remove your shoes before entering the Spiti Kitchens.

Kitchen of Spiti Houses -Fossil Village Langza
Kitchen of Spiti Houses

Food and accommodation options are limited in fossil village Langza but who can beat the hospitality of upper Himachali’s. They treat you like Kings and can surpass everything to give you comfort. The yak tea with local puffed chapatti is what they can treat you with on a small conversation too.

The Toilets in Langza Village are mostly dry pits toilets, outside the houses.

Birds & Animals around Village Langza

Many national International tourists visit fossil Village Langza in winters to spot the big cat – Snow Leopard. The other animals which can be seen in the months of December, January are Tibetan wolf, Blue sheep, the Himalayan griffon, Yellow-billed Chough, and rock pigeon. And during any time of the year, one can see yaks and sheep roaming freely in herds or with the shepherds.

Herd of grazing Blue sheep in Spiti Valley: On the way to fossil village langza

Also read: A must visit Fairyland- Chandratal Lake

Attractions of Village Langza

  • The village has an ancient Lang or temple 1000 years old, regarded as the headquarters of all the Deities of the Spiti Valley.
  • Various trekking routes and trails start from village Langza
  • One can also visit the high altitude lake –Tsonyeti and Chumo Tso. These lakes are around 3-4 hour hikes from the village which is difficult for travelers like us, owing to the low oxygen and high altitude of the region.
  • The village is a pivot for fossil lovers. The local name of fossil here is ‘chaudua’ and can be easily found in and around the village. The fossils are Cephalopoda. Do visit the fossil center, also known as Chauda Centre.Cephalopoda fossils of Fossil Village Langza, Spiti ValleySource
  • The other main attraction of Village Langza is Zama Pottery done with black soil collected from the valley. The villagers make Zama pitchers, pots, decorative items, animal figures, sculptures, penholders, lamps, paperweights and clay fossils. These can be seen displayed in their homes for sale

Earlier Zama pottery used to be the main source of income for villagers, but now they have earnings from agriculture too.

Zama Pottery of Fossil Village Langza
Source

How to Reach Langza Village

The fossil village Langza can be reached by hiking, own car, hitchhiking, or by bus (which leaves on particular days and timings).

Route: While driving to Rangrik from Kaza, there comes a bifurcation on the right side which takes you to the village Langza. The fossil village Langza can be done in a circuit with village Hikkim and Komic.

Roads: The roads are narrow, perfectly paved with continuous ascent and descent. There are few bad patches in between. In winters expect snowfall on this route.

Also Read: 10 days itinerary for Lahaul Spiti Road Trip

Expected Temperature

In winters, days are cold and windy the with a temperature between 0 to -5 degree Celsius. Evenings are extremely chilly in winters and temperature goes to -25 degree Celsius. Don’t wait for night photography here, as you may suffer from hypothermia.

In summers, days are warm but the night temperature goes below 5 degree Celsius

Best Season to Visit

May to September but if you are crazy like us, then winters too is good, as you will see the different face of this snow land.

Spiti River view on the way to Fossil Village Langza

Important Points:

  • Food and accommodation options are very limited.
  • Only a few homestays are operational in winters
  • Avoid driving after sunset as roads are really narrow
  • Do spend a night with locals to experience the local traditional culture
  • Buy some local craft, Zama pottery, for locals earning and livelihood
  • Visit Spiti Valley and Langza village in winters, only after planning.

View of Chau Chau Kang Nilda from Fossil Village Langza

So, the village is a charming beauty with ancient buildings, old monasteries, snow-capped peak Chau Chau Kang Nilda, green meadows and bowl-shaped plains. Also, the land takes you to the prehistoric era, when Spiti valley was submerged under the Tethys Sea.

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Also Read:

A walk to the Nako village, Himachal Pradesh

The Sangla Valley, Kinnaur

Himachal, India, Tourism, Travel

Spiti Valley in winters: Self Drive Road Trip guide

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Do you want to come along for the winter Spiti Valley expedition? We asked our friends before planning the trip. With the popped eyes and open mouth, they replied – Are you guys crazy? Spiti valley in winters– the roads will be snow-covered, temperatures fall down to -40 degrees Celsius, pipes and water get frozen, people come down to the lower hills for survival and you want to do a road trip there. It is India’s remotest & inaccessible area. Crazy people, go in summers! All this surely led to the second thought but who could stop the adventurous wanderlust of ALLGUDTHINGS, after seeing the beautiful cold desert, Spiti valley in summers.

Spiti Valley In Winters: Self Drive Road Trip Guide

So, in January, we took a planned self-drive road trip from Delhi to Spiti Valley. We took the first halt at Shoghi and spent 2 good memorable days at Aamod Resort Shoghi. Further, from there, we continued our trip to reach and explore the snow sheeted middle land i.e. winter Spiti .

Tip: Never do an unplanned trip to Spiti Valley in winters i.e. offseason, as it can land you in serious trouble.

Spiti Valley in winters

Just like our friends, the majority of people think the Spiti valley is inaccessible in winters. But it is not so. Some parts of Spiti valley are open especially the Shimla – Kaza road. Also, it is a perfect time to see winter Spiti life.

Spiti valley in winter is entirely the transformed version of Spiti we had seen earlier in summers. The semi-arid mountains, deep terrains, a stretch of barren landform and green oasis, all were supposed to be completely shrouded by a blanket of snow in the month of January. But nature had some other plans for us.

The Kaza in winter was snow sheeted whereas the rest Spiti Valley looked just replenished by wind and nature. Spiti River looked like a sea of snow or white cotton candies floating in the turquoise blue water. The mesmerizing spectacle of the whole valley left us just go on clicking and clicking.

Spiti Valley in Winters: Self Drive road trip travel guide

The winter Spiti Valley is really different and unique as there are only a few visitors and you feel the whole valley belongs to you. You get ample time to talk, stay, and interact with the Spitian’s. They make you taste the most wonderful delectable local cuisines.

Kaza Village in a blanket of snow: Spiti Valley in Winters

So, a winter Spiti trip, to this picture postcard land is a must for adventure enthusiasts and road trip lovers. And here is a self-drive road trip guide for Spiti Valley in winters.

Route/ How to Reach Spiti Valley in Winter?

Ideally, there are two routes to enter Spiti Valley from Delhi. One from Shimla and other from Manali. But in winters, Rohtang La and Kunzum La both get covered with heavy snow, so you can’t travel from Manali to Kaza in winters. The only viable option is to enter and exit Spiti Valley in winters is through Shimla.

Delhi – Shimla – Rampur – Rekong Peo – Tabo – Kaza

And remember the routes beyond Kaza are closed too. So, the farthest one can reach is Kaza and the villages around it i.e Kibber, Komic, Langza, Hikkim, Tashigong, Chicham Khas.

Also read: 10 days itinerary for Lahaul Spiti Road Trip

Condition of Roads to Spiti in winters

During winter Spiti trip, expect to find snow patches on roads beyond Shimla. So, be really slow and cautious while driving on snow. And strictly avoid driving on black ice, as it is too slippery and can be dangerous. To avoid skidding, keep some luggage or stones in the boot space of the vehicle. Also, one can deflate the tires for better grip on snow.

Tip: If your car loses control, don’t push the brakes. Just, leave the accelerator and let it go in the intended direction.

  • Delhi to Chandigarh: Multi-lane highway
  • Chandigarh to Shimla: Few bad patches because of the road widening process.
  • Shimla to Rampur: Highway. Expect snow at Kufri, Narkanda
  • Rampur to Kalpa: A good road with few bad patches because of road widening and expect to face roadblocks due to some landslides.
  • Kalpa to Tabo : Narrow road with continuous incline and decline. Expect few bad patches because of landslides and shooting stone sights. And on this day, One also has to cross frozen Malling Nala, beyond Nako village.
  • Tabo to Kaza: A good scenic narrow road with continuous incline and decline. Expect few bad patches because of landslides.
Narrow Steep Roads around Kaza: Spiti Valley in Winters

Expected Spiti Valley Temperatures

As you move ahead from Shimla, with every increasing altitude, the temperature in Spiti Valley decreases and the air gets thinner. So, expect to feel breathlessness while walking and climbing stairs. The expected temperatures in winters in Spiti valley are subzero:

  • Shimla: Sunny chilly days and cold nights. Temperature ranging from 15 degree Celsius to -3 degree in night
  • Rampur: Is warmer than Shimla. Day temperature goes till 14 degree Celsius and night temperature dips till 1  to 2 degree Celsius
  • Kalpa: Sunny cold days and extremely cold chilly nights. Day temperature range from -2 to -3 degree Celsius and night temperatures goes to -13 degree Celsius.
  • Tabo: Expect sunny chilly days and very cold nights. Day temperature ranges from – 2 to – 3 degree Celsius and it goes to – 19 degree in night
  • Kaza temperature in winters: Days are sunny with extreme chill and nights are extremely cold and chilly too. The day temperature ranges from -6 to -9 degree Celsius and night temperatures go to -25 degree Celsius

Also Check: Bridges of Kinnaur and Spiti

Halts & Accommodation in Spiti in Winters

The total distance from Delhi to Spiti Valley i.e. Kaza is just 765 kilometers. Google maps show the journey of 19 hours. That means one stop and you will reach Kaza. But in actuality, it is really impossible. We covered the first 300 kilometers in 6-7 hrs but the rest 465 kilometers in the mountains were equivalent to 800 kilometers. So, one needs to take proper halts at proper locations, to get acclimatized before hitting Kaza.

Landscapes of Spiti Valley in winters: Self Drive road trip guide

The life of winters in Spiti Valley is completely different & is almost standstill due to the extremely low temperatures in December, January, and February. So, don’t have high expectations for stay and food. Most of the hotels, homestays are closed during winters in spiti. Only 2 -3 homestays are operational everywhere and locals can guide you best on the same.

After Shimla, we took halts at Rampur, Kalpa, and Tabo, before hitting Kaza.

Rampur: There are multiple hotels in and around Rampur bus station. We stayed at Nau Nabh heritage hotel, one of the luxurious heritage properties. 

Kalpa: One can choose to stay at homestays or at HPTDC (Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Cooperation), Kalpa. We opted for HTPDC to be on the safer side. Apart from Kalpa, you can also opt to stay at Sangla valley in Kinnaur, where few homestays are operational

Nako: Forget about homestays or hotel accommodation in Nako. The whole village was under hibernation except a Maggi shack opened near bus stan. Even the Nako monastery rooms are closed in winters.

Tabo: At Tabo, 2-3 homestays were operational. We stayed at Baba’s / Phunstok’s Homestay, one of the generous family who was already waiting for us. You can contact them at 94185-76181; 01906-223452 and they charge Rs 1000 per person/night including meals.

Cozy Kitchen in Baba's Homestay at Tabo: Spiti Valley in winters

Kaza: Similar is the case with Kaza. Most of the hotels and homestays are closed. Only 4 -5 home stay’s run during offseason. We stayed with Mr & Mrs. Tandup at Pema Homestay, another super helpful family who can go beyond limits to give comforts to the guests. You can connect with them at 9459252699, 8988231033 and they charge Rs 1500 per night. People say that if Mr. Chering  (relative of Mr. Tandup) knows about your existence or arrival in Spiti, you are completely safe. He will go extra miles to search you out if you missing or have not turned back by the expected timings.

Fresh Thupka in Kaza - Spiti Valley in Winters
Fresh Thupka in Kaza

Apart from this, we met a girl Tanya Roy from Delhi, who runs a Wanderer’s Nest Homestay and amazing cafe in Kaza. You can connect with her at 9459357754. Rest, you can enquire about the open homestays at Kaza Bus stand.

Food Joints on the way to Spiti Valley in Winter

There are multiple eating options till Shimla. The real fight starts after Rampur.

Pappu Ka Dhabha at Tapri - Spiti Valley in Winters
Pappu Ka Dhabha at Tapri

Between Rampur to Kalpa: Have Thali (food) at Pappu ka dhabha, Tapri – The food quality is surely more than value for money.

Kalpa to Tabo: You will find tea and food stalls only in Spillow and a single shack open at Nako.

Tabo to Kaza: No food joints

Tip: Carry a lot of eatables, nuts, and water with you on the way.

Must carry accessories for Winter Spiti Valley Road Trip

  • Do carry snow chains if your vehicle is not 4*4.
  • Carry shovel along, in case you need to clear snow on the way
  • Add Antifreeze to avoid freezing of diesel
  • Keep some camphor and cotton handy to lit fire, if required
  • Always keep a towing cable in your carSelf Drive Road trip to Spiti Valley in Winters

Problems you can face during Winter Spiti Valley Trip

Spiti Valley in winters tests all your survival instincts and body endurance. You go as prepared as you can, but still, this land will make you realize that you are unprepared i.e. the nature and topography of this valley.

But Open your mind to the following before going:

  1. Bathing is not possible because of frozen water tanks. So, be prepared for the wet towel scrub only.
  2. Be prepared to use dry toilets, as the water pipes will be frozen and there is no water in the taps. Dry toilets are traditional toilets with a hole in the ground and avoid taking your phones in the toilet.
  3. A year back I say in 2017, electricity used to be there for fixed hours, but now there is full-time electricity. The voltage is less, so your batteries, cameras, phone will take much longer to get charged
  4. There are chances of AMS (Altitude motion sickness) hitting you at that high altitude. So, be prepared. If you see any of such symptoms i.e. a headache, nausea, breathlessness, take help. Otherwise, give yourself some time to get acclimatized and keep sipping a lot of hot water. The alternative is you can start a DIAMOX course prior to the trip after the doctor’s consultation.
  5. Only BSNL network works here
  6. Temperatures are subzero and it is bone-biting cold. So, be in proper winter clothing. Wear layers, cover your head, and do include warm shoes. Also, do carry your sunglasses. Suruchi Tashi; AllGudThings -Spiti Valley in winters
  7. Expect road closure for several days, if snowfall occurs in between. BRO works here throughout the year to keep road operational till Kaza
  8. Be prepared, that despite adding antifreeze your car fuel will freeze. In such a case wait for the sun rays to melt it down or use a cylinder with the local’s help. For this, we have expert advice from Mr. Shibhu Varghese of 4*4 India adventure which we will be sharing soon with you.Scorpio sun bathing in Kaza to melt down the frozen Diesel - Spiti Valley in winters
  9. Expect bare minimum medical help. Carry first aid kit and some basic medicines with you.
  10. Carry enough cash with you. ATMs are available at Kalpa, Tabo as well as Kaza but don’t expect them to have enough cash as well as in working conditions.
  11. Fuel station at Kaza, opens between 10 am to 5 pm. So, get your tank fuelled timely.World's Highest Petrol pump at Kaza - Spiti Valley in Winters

The kitchen is the warmest place in Spiti houses, as there is a burning Angithi throughout the day.  So, if you feel excess of cold, rush there to normalize your body temperature. Don’t touch any metal with bare hands, as there are chances of your skin sticking to the metal. If in any case, that happens, don’t pull your hand away. Pour hot water to detach your hand.

Spiti Valley in winters checks your endurance and patience but you surely are bound to leave your soul in God’s own land. It looks completely magnanimous in winters and engulfs you in its beauty.

If you have any more question or need any more information, feel free to type in the comments. We will be happy to answer all about Spiti Valley in winter. Till then, please share it with your friends and family.

Spiti Valley In Winters: Self Drive Road Trip Guide